how can i lay a solid wood oak tongue and groove floor on an existing, good, tiled floor without it moving?

Question

i have the wood aclimatising in the room that it is to be laid on. i have read many web sites and all seem to say various things from ,its easy to dont even try . Can i use the same adhesive that you would use to fix tiles to wood flooring as what i want to do is the same but around the other way ?

thanks for all the advice from you guys. it really is a big help. Im not laying it till late jan. and at the moment its stacked in my lounge , the room it will be laid in. Its 3 mtrs by 8 so not so big. im a fresh diy,er. but reasonably able. no probs with the hieght as a new door is the next thing and just got a few skirting boards as we call them here in Kilkenny Ireland. I read somewhere a while back about floating it but srew fixing maybe 10 boards alowing the rest to " ride free". many ways to skin a cat.The boards are solid oak and cost me around 2000 dollars, I was quite happy with the tiled look but the other half ????????.............

Answer 1

DO NOT glue it. You will ruin it as it moves it will tear itself apart. If you want a decent job, remove the tiles and floorboards and secret nail (powernailer from a hire shop is idiot proof - the one with the rubber mallet that fires brads through the tongues as you hit it) into the old wooden floor joists (if that is what you have).

If you have a solid floor slab and you insist on putting oak down, use a good quality thick underlay and float the floor boards, dry, over the top. Cut up cork tiles to wedge in , or apply the odd blobs of silicone to the 10mm expansion gap under your skirtings to stop any motion while still allowing wood to expand and contract.. The material just isn't really fit for purpose on a solid slab

Answer 2

I laid my own solid oak 200mm wide boards x 20mm thick and some long lengths about 2 years ago. I am a keen DIY enthusiast and hired a 45 degree nail gun which punches the nails through the tongue so you dont see them. The wife wanted a jacobean finish so i stained them all and finished them with Mega bona. At first they looked great but after a while showed signs of dents and scratching. Due to the dark colour, the floor shows every bit of dust and marking. Despite being very careful to acclimatise the wood and close gaps during installation, plus laying a foam silver back membrane, gaps have appeared where the central heating pipes go under the floor. One gap is approx 10 mm wide. I spent a lot of money on my floor and am now going to sand it and oil the natural oak colour, fill gaps and hope it is a more pleasing finish than before. In hindsight i would have gone for an engineered floating oak floor as it just seems more viable. In conclusion i would not recommend attaching an oak floor to chipboard as it does not have the strength to combat against warping and shrinkage

Answer 3

If its manufactured you should use the recommended adhesive, otherwise use a parquet type adhesive. PVA and most tile adhesives contain a lot of water which may cause the wood to swell. You should lay floor to accommodate a bit of movement - so don't forget the all important movement gap (at least 10mm) around perimeter to allow for expansion.

Answer 4

How thick is the flooring, and how high is it going to raise the floor you are covering than the floors that but up to it. Can you cover it with a threshold? If it raises it too high you will have trouble making the other floors look right going into the room you are putting the tongue and groove. Otherwise you can glue the wood flooring down, as long as the glue will adhere to the tile.

Answer 5

I have to agree with Wilfred, and after thousands of sq. ft. of flooring in my time; I'd certainly not want my name on an "Overfloor" job...No offense.

First of all I cannot imagine GLUING solid Oak T&G, no matter; over what substrate.

Then is the underlayment and keeping it intact.

I did notice another answer asking how much of an increase in floor height can you live with? Do you have cove base to remove?

If height isn't a major issue for you, I'd probably install a substrate then the Oak.

Steven Wolf
Just my Two Cents

Answer 6

Great answers so far..but even if your wood is acclimatised,allow for expansion when u lay it..leave at least 2cm around the edges(this only applies to certain qualities of parquet flooring!!),glueing would hinder the natural movement of the wood and therefore warp with time.so be careful.

Answer 7

you need to put a underlay down. that will give it sufficient grip so it dosnt slide. if when you put the underlay down and it feels like it's slipping, then use some double sided tape to hold the underlay down.

Answer 8

simple answer no dont do it it dont work