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i bougth this 1994 model toyota with a 5K gasoline engine and im planning to have it change oil but i dont know what kind of motor oil should i put, and what is that SAE labelling all about?

2007-12-13 12:32:35 · 11 answers · asked by Reynaldo P 1 in Cars & Transportation Maintenance & Repairs

11 answers

use 5W-30. here is the story on the Labeling on the oil bottles...

Most engine oils available today carries a donut symbol on the front of the bottle. Across the top is printed "API SERVICE SJ", API stands for the American Petroleum Institute. This is an independent oil testing agency that licenses oil manufacturers to use the API Quality Mark on their oil containers, if the oil passes the minimum performance standards set by the API…sort of like the Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval for engine oils.

As oils have improved over the years, the performance standards they must meet get tougher and a new letter designation is used. The current standard is API SJ. Previous categories, now obsolete are: SH, SG, SF, SE, SD, SC, SB, & SA. I’ll not bother you with the designations for diesel oil.

Inside the "hole" of the API donut the viscosity of the oil is designated. The "SAE" stands for Society of Automotive Engineers, who set the standard for viscosity tests. The numbers below "SAE" are the viscosity ratings of the oil. Viscosity is a measure of the oil’s thickness and ability to flow at certain temperatures.

Most oils used and recommended today are multi-viscosity. Here’s why: In cold weather oil will get thick and stiff. Starting an engine with thick oil is difficult, even if you have electric start. A 10W-40 designation, for example, means that the oil acts like a 10 weight oil when it’s cold (thus the W for winter) and like a 40 weight oil at operating temperatures. If you started off with a straight 10 weight oil, by the time your engine had warmed up to operating temperatures, your oil would be getting very thin and not lubricating very well.


Quick-Lube (and dealer) Problems to Watch Out For

1. SAE30 oil. Some quick-lube places have been known to offer advertised specials that use SAE 30 oil, as opposed to 5W30 or 10W30. Pay the extra for the proper oil, or better yet avoid merchants that try to pull this kind of thing because it's an indicator that they are less than honest.

2. Trying to use the wrong oil because it's what they have in bulk. Insist on the oil that is specified on your filler cap and in your manual.

3. Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole instead of removing the drain plug. I came across this gem when I asked if I needed to bring my own copper drain plug gasket. They said that they didn't remove the drain plug to drain the old oil. This was the Oil Changer location at Kifer & Wolfe in Sunnyvale, California. Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole is a terrible way to get the old oil out because it leaves a lot of junk in the bottom of the oil pan. This was a long time ago and maybe they've changed their ways since then.

4. Selling unneeded and overpriced services such as engine flushes.

5. Selling overpriced, and often low quality, parts such as wiper blades and washer fluid, PCV valves, thermostats, etc. Never let a quick-lube place do any mechanical work on your vehicle.. They do no use journeyman mechanics.

6. Using poor quality filters. You really want to bring your own filter, from the dealer, with you when you go to a quick-lube place. They may take $1 or $2 off the price if you do this but don't count on it.

7. If you have a vehicle that actually still has Zerk fittings to lubricate then be sure that they actually lubricate these fitting. Most cars no longer require lubrication but some trucks still do.

8. Do not let a quick-lube place change or add any fluids other than oil. No transmission fluid, no brake fluid, no power steering fluid, no antifreeze, no oil additives, no fuel additives. It is just too easy for them to use the wrong fluid and cause permanent damage to your vehicle.

For some horror stories about Jiffy Lube see: http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/jiffy_lube.htm . I think I'll pass on them!

2007-12-13 12:35:12 · answer #1 · answered by mdcbert 6 · 2 5

Ok motor oil Means motor oil.Been driving for 40 years and do all my own mech.All engines use the same oil. even desiels. Max life is a desent oil. I use Castrol fullsynth.In all my rigs.150,000 on my Geo work car. Engine runs like new.Just make sure you have the right grade.Who has been feeding you a line of ****.Oh must be the internet.

2016-04-09 01:46:14 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

1] Put it IN the engine, not ON the engine.
2] Look in the Owner's manual, if you have it, or go to Toyota's website; it should tell you.
3] SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers. The numbers [eg 10W-40] refer to the viscosity [thickness] of the oil. Do not put in a different viscosity !!!
The number with the W refers to how thick the oil is when cold, the other how thick it is when warm.
There is also a rating for the resistance to breakdown, something like SF or SG - the later in the alphabet the second letter is the better.
4] Oil and filters are CHEAP compared to engines.
NAPA makes good filters. Synthetic oil is considered the best.

2007-12-13 12:40:20 · answer #3 · answered by redbeardthegiant 7 · 0 5

Never heard of a 5k engine. When did toyota put out a 5k motor?
Any how the standard oil used in the toyota is 10-30W. SAE

2007-12-13 12:46:13 · answer #4 · answered by Big Deal Maker 7 · 0 3

the best oil type is the newer synthetics, they last forever. if there are a lot of miles on it, u may want to go with an extended mile formula.
as far as the rating of 10w40 or whatever, most of the modern engines go call for 5w30.
on a ten year old engine, first look at the fill for the oil, it is written on the cap, usually. U can look in the owners manual, if it has one or look the model up, online and get the exact.
the higher the rating, the thicker the oil, but some vehicles call for very specific cooling needs and smaller engines tend to be the ones that do.

2007-12-13 12:41:19 · answer #5 · answered by paigespirate 4 · 0 5

I would say probably SAE 5W-30, but check the cap where the oil goes in to be sure. It will usually say, or if not...the owners manual will tell. SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers. There are different "weights" of oil. They have varying properties such as their viscosity at certain temperatures.

2007-12-13 12:37:56 · answer #6 · answered by Otto 7 · 1 3

sae is a standard, oil companies agreed to meet when manufacturing motor oil. Walmart and everyone else has charts that will tell you what weight oil and how much your car needs, also what oil filter to use.

2007-12-13 12:38:30 · answer #7 · answered by T C 6 · 0 5

10w30 in the winter 10w40 in the summer.40 weight is thicker than 30 weight.in the summer the thicker oil last longer. in the winter the lighter oil moves better thru your motor.also put 1 qt of of either slick 50 or something like that.a synthetic.in place of 1 qt of oil.it helps older engines last longer.also a toyota is a very good engine.treat it right and keep the oil changed and it will last for years to come.

2007-12-13 12:39:38 · answer #8 · answered by nez_destroyer 1 · 2 8

You should concentrate hard and try to get your words in the proper order.
1. the slick kind.
2. Tell's you what the thickness of your slick oil is.

2007-12-13 12:43:05 · answer #9 · answered by sugartopone 3 · 0 6

motor oil? get some bleach and clean the engine i say! and in mine opininion none of you are eating enough fruit, BE HAPPY , BE WHOLESOME!

2007-12-13 12:46:27 · answer #10 · answered by MARY S 5 · 0 5

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