Fitting a front door as opposed to an internal door- differences?

Question

Hi,

I am going to attempt to fit a new front door and would like to know if there is anything else i need to be careful of.

I have successfully fitted many internal doors but wasn't sure if there are any fundamental differences between the two?
For instance draft proofing etc will play a part somewhere along the way- would that mean i need to leave more gap around the edges etc?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also if any discription is made on how to do something could you go into as much detail as possible!

Many thanks.

Answer 1

Fitting an exterior door is basically the same as an interior door. You will allow the normal 1/2" to 3/4" gap all the way around for your rough opening to be filled with insulation. The only thing really different is instead of just finish nailing the door in, you'll want to run 2" to 3" wood screws through the hinges in order to fasten the door for more support. Most likely your exterior door will be a 36" door.

Answer 2

good answers but there are differences depending on whether you are in the uk or north america, i wish we could tell where the questioner comes from! for all questions

in the uk we dont really use shims in the same way for the frame or we use folding wedges. The frame tends to be fitted to a solid surface of masonry rather than studs, i know theres a lot of variation.
you need some good fixings through the frame to hold the extra weight.
if the frame is a mess its quite a job renewing it as its built into the masonry structure so not an ideal first try at outside doors hanging

presume inward opening? if outward hinges where the leaves lock together can be used or the pins can be taken out by burglars.

use SOLID brass or stainless hinges that tarnish less and brass/stainless screws. 3 x 100mm hinges. is this a normal house or a cottage in which case use appropriate style hinges

leave a slightly wider gap around the door, instead of 2mm try a bit larger for more expansion due to exposure to the elements. if you hang in winter with moist air use 2.5mm. the gap does not need to be larger in order to fit draught proofing its the expansion and contraction

if you want to modify the frame there are seals that fit into the frame via a router cut groove. otherwise small gaps use any of the draught strips for the gap that you find. i like the seals that fit outside aluminium strip in silver, brass, white with a rubber wiper type seal.
brush seals get messy, but they are consumable items

the bottom should be fitted with a wood or metal weather board, the s shaped bit, to take water away from the bottom of the door. various types and degrees of sophistication for inward or outward openings. some replace the metal/plastic water bar that is let into the wooden step at the bottom of the frame. if theres a water bar there my advice leave it as it should be really well stuck in.
a wood weather bar should be screwed into from the inside surface of the door and the edges bedded in mastic, especially the top. paint/varnish door and bar first

the bottom of the door, IF there's a water bar, needs to be rebated to allow the door to fit up to it.

make sure that the door is REALLY well sealed with whatever finish you choose ALL over, preferably when all adjustments are made and its ready to go in. if time lacking do the top and bottom

get a really good lock or two but check that its size so that it fits the thickness, usually 44mm and width of the door side, ask a good ironmonger.

theres more but thats experience

more involved so allow longer

if you're not in the uk ive wasted my time

Answer 3

Not a lot of difference.
The front door should have three hinges, heavy duty 4" are best.
And you will need a five lever mortice lock as well as a rim lock.
If it's an old door frame without integral draught strip you can buy a draft excluder strip for the outside of the frame

Answer 4

Installing an exterior door is fairly complex.
1. rough opening : ensure you have enough room for your new unit to fit. (I know there are standard rough opening sizes, but rarely do I find them in an actual home.)
2. Handing, Swing,and Jamb depth. make sure your hinge side is correct and your jamb depth is right. 4 9/16 for 2x4 construction 6 9/16 for 2x6 construction.
3. Shimming. Shim behind all hinges and directly across to ensure the door is plumb with an even reveal on the sides. then shim under the door to ensure level . (any order is fine level then plumb/ plumb then level).
4. Screw off Hinges Use a 2 1/2" screw in each hinge through the shims, being careful not to disturb your reveal. then using finish nails nail the door off through all shims.
5. Cut back shims flush with wall, insulate, and trim.

Answer 5

Hi, I do lots of doors, principle is the same, but you have to be care full if the door you are trying to fit is hard wood.
1- you have to make sure your frame is fitted level.
2- Make sure the hinges you fit are flush with the edge of the door.
3- Always measure twice, before you put any hole through the door cause you cant undo it.
4- fit the door and prepare for,shaving the door, almost 90% of the time you endup shaving the door.
5- Make sure you get someone to give you a hand, as hardwood doors are heavey.

Answer 6

I prefer using the front door but I don't mind using the back door once in a while.

Answer 7

1

Answer 8

basically the same except it will be hardwood and harder to chisel out for the door furniture

Answer 9

you Will need storm guard for bottom , or weather bar plus drip

Answer 10

Try this it should answer all your questions