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Want to lengthen a 10 ft wide room by removing an end wall which is under the gable end in a bungalow. The gable end is also 10 ft wide. Would like to maintain the full width between walls after opening---so also wondering if jack studs for the header can be built within the framing of the existing side walls.

2007-12-09 14:32:55 · 9 answers · asked by Anonymous in Home & Garden Do It Yourself (DIY)

To all who provided practical answers, I can't thank you enough. I'm checking results from an online span calculator which I doubted (3 of 2x8, or 2 of 2x10). Now I'll probably use double that number, or maybe I'll knock myself out and use 3 of 2x12. That'll cost about $60, so if it eats at the pocket of a $1000 engineer--GREAT. An engineered dog house would cost about $10k--maybe worth $5. A team of PhD engineers lost a $1billion Mars probe cause they forgot to convert metric/imperial. You want me to trust a BSc? I still have a 1974 multimeter only because I ripped it out of the hands of an engineering classmate who was going to use it on resistance setting to check his car battery! Common sense rules. Thanks again. Next time I don't know, I will ask, and then I too, will know. An engineer worth his salt should probably condemn this old house, but at least what I add will be right due to research/draftsman/building permit/inspection and sound construction--no slide rule here.

2007-12-10 15:15:11 · update #1

Sorry, I digressed a bit in above rant. The business of a gable end being non-supportive was an aside comment someone made a while back, and I was a bit shocked to here it. Thought surely it must at least hold the ridge board and some amount of underlying structure, but I guess it does make sense. However, as some of you point out, it may support some load under some circumstances--thanks for that. I feel a bit better now when I look at that lonely 2x4 which sits vertically below our ridge board. Oh, if I ever stop adding details here, you'll know I'm injured or dead...Cheers Guys

2007-12-10 15:25:39 · update #2

9 answers

sandwich a 1/2" piece of plywood between the 2x10's, yep the jack studs idea will work too.

2007-12-09 14:38:13 · answer #1 · answered by T C 6 · 0 1

Gable walls are generally not load bearing. Not a hip roof right? Trusses vs rafters? Btw, the 1/2" plywood is added to make your header = 3 1/2 " ( the thickness of a 2x4...) These days 2x4's, 2x6's etc are not 2 inches thick. They are 1 1/2 ". So if your header was only (2) 2x 10's, for example, the thickness would only add up to 3". By adding or"sandwiching" something - 1/2" plywood or even 7/16" osb to the (2) 2x's. You will now have a total thickness of 3 and a half inches which equals a 2x4(these days). If it sounds confusing...blame the lumber industry for not selling you what they say they are...lol - a real 2 x 4... Btw, the added strength of the "sandwich" is not a big consderation on just a 10 foot span for a one story house(?)....My honest opinion, save yourself a $1000 and DYI... If your really really concerned...look into a laminated beam. Ask a lumber yard about those. Btw, the jack studs should be fine...What's below them? Be sure to support the "old"gable wall well while doing your addition - probably a temporary wall just inside...
Cheers

2007-12-10 11:46:46 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Combat America- a 1943 film produced by the United States Army Air Forces and starring Clark Gable. This wasn't a made up (per say) plot or a fictional movie for entertainment- the consequenses were real, because for those of you that didnt know this, Adolf Hitler esteemed Gable above all other actors; during the Second World War he offered a sizable reward to anyone who could capture and bring Gable unscathed to him. I am not placing Gable above any WW2 vet- they all took risks and some of these risks have gone un-noticed and un-sung. Many paid the ultimate price. I merely answered a question about Gable. Gable flew five combat missions, including one to Germany, as an observer-gunner in B-17 Flying Fortresses between May 4 and September 23, 1943, earning the Air Medal and the Distinguished Flying Cross for his efforts.

2016-05-22 10:04:26 · answer #3 · answered by desirae 3 · 0 0

The double 2 x 10's attached together would work. I can't see that the 1/2 ply makes much difference, but that's the beauty of Q&A.

The determination of whether of not the wall is currently load bearing can be made by determining how it runs to the rafters/trusses above it. Perpendicular; it's usually load bearing.

2007-12-09 14:51:02 · answer #4 · answered by DIY Doc 7 · 0 1

It sounds like, in your bungalo situation, the gable end should be supported by the side walls, as are the rest of the trusses. But check first. Open a section of ceiling to see if any bottom chords or joists are hung/supported from it. It may be a gurder truss that may support other areas. But not to worry, if originally built correctly, should be supported by the side walls. Therefore, no need to drop the ceiling 10"(ie. put a beam in). Sounds like fun...good luck.

2007-12-09 16:32:17 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0 1

The plywood sandwiched in the header keeps it from warping or bowing. Every situation is different and you should get a pro to look at it first. Get an estimate and ask questions then. Load bearing and header sizing are engineer questions.

2007-12-09 14:57:21 · answer #6 · answered by lenzix5 4 · 1 0

Load Bearing = Ask Engineer
Potential Load Bearing=
Ask Engineer
Think anything is not structural but not sure= Ask Engineer

the 1000 dollars or so will be worth not having a future injury or death.

2007-12-09 15:30:30 · answer #7 · answered by N 2 · 0 0

to remove that wall you must first locate every 6' one jack support (steel pipe).The jacks must sit under the ceiling joist closed to the wall .(Is very dangerous operation ,cause one small mistake will brake all the roof down.Use one 4x4 or 6x6 to support ceiling .This method will work as a secondary wall .To break down the wall do not smash the wall by hammer and try yo cut studs by saw .after wall removed install two 4x4 at each end of the wall and put one soled 4x6 as beam on top of the 4x4 secure it by steel plate holders .This must be exactly calculate till sit rafters(bob cut) right on top of the beam without any gap or better by hammering .then secure the rafters to the beam ,very carefully remove the jacks one by one and listen to the woods if did not make crack or scratch sound means operation is well done.Now what are you plan to do go head and do it .

2007-12-09 20:52:36 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 0 1

Get a structural engineers report. If you have to ask then you don't know so get somebody in that does.

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2007-12-09 21:06:53 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 1 0

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