How do you take care of slider turtles?

Question

Tell me housing, food, and ect.

Answer 1

Here is everything you need to know:
http://redearslider.com/


To answer your question......


HOUSING:

Tank size is the first critical issue you will have to deal with. A guideline to determine this size used by many keepers, as a minimum, is 10 gallons of tank per each inch of shell length (refer to SCL for correct shell measurement). Therefore, a single adult RES will require anywhere between a 90 to a 120 gallon tank. Water levels should be as high as possible, but not enough for escape. There are more details about appropriate tanks in their own respective section. Click here to read now.

Water filtration and quality are also major aspects of a well-maintained environment. Since captive RES eat, sleep and produce waste in the limited amount of water they are in, it is critical to have well-cycled and filtered water. Clean water greatly reduces the instances of infection, algae and fungal growth.. The presence and build-up of harmful bacteria and waste should be monitored regularly. Water filter types, media options and more water quality aspects are explained in their respective sections.

A correct environment also allows for your turtle to thermoregulate or regulate body temperature. Hatchlings should have a water temperature of 78F-80F, while adult RES can do fine in a temperature of 75F-78F. A basking area should be available that is roughly 10F warmer than the water. With these varying temperatures, sliders can thermoregulate to their POTZ (preferred optimal temperature zone).

When sliders are out of this zone, whether it is too cold or warm, they may not behave normally and will become increasingly susceptible to illness and disease. Temperatures that are too cool are often called a “death zone” since they are not cold enough for actual hibernation but cold enough to inhibit their metabolism. Hibernation is considered unnecessary and dangerous for captive RES.

The required basking area allows for your turtle to dry off and warm up. A heat lamp positioned above the tank will be necessary to raise temperatures an additional 10F. This is also a good spot to add special UVB lighting and direct it over the basking area. UVB rays allow your turtle to produce vitamin D3 which enables the metabolization of dietary calcium. Unobstructed sunlight is the best source of UVB and warmth. If you intend to keep a slider in an outdoor habitat, it will not be necessary to provide artificial UV rays if there is ample sunlight reaching the basking area.


FOOD:

Red Ear Sliders are omnivores who can be fed a variety of foods. This variety is important as it enables you to provide a healthy diet. The range of food can include pellets, aquatic plants, vegetables, insects, fish and treats (shrimp, fruit, etc.) as well as the occasional supplement. While it is important to offer variety, it is also important to offer a balanced and nutritional diet that offers additional calcium and vitamins. As with many captive animals, there is a tendency to overfeed them, causing unnecessary and irreversible health risks.

Younger RES are generally carnivorous. As they grow larger and older, they become increasingly herbivorous. Being carnivorous means a greater protein intake and young RES should take in a greater percentage of protein than older RES. Sliders of all ages will choose live prey or carrion if the opportunity exists, but it should only be provided occasionally. RES should also be supplied additional calcium to help harden the shell and accommodate growth.

The primary diet of a RES should consist of a commercially made pellet, of which there are many types and varieties. With the addition of the appropriate vegetables and calcium, you can provide a balanced diet required for a healthy turtle. It is important to avoid foods that can block calcium absorption. Certain prey, vegetation and treats should be avoided. For example, spinach contains oxalic acid and mealworms have a bad calcium/phosphorus ratio. Either of these can interfere with absorption of calcium. A small portion would not be harmful, but regular and extend use will affect shell and bone development.

RES need to be in water to swallow since they do not produce saliva. They may take food that's on land but will bring it into the water to consume it. Furthermore, feeding a RES in a separate container will create a cleaner tank that will require less frequent cleaning and water changes. Thus, if your turtle cooperates, it would be in a healthier environment and would require less cleaning maintenance.

Answer 2

At least 75 gallons. The bigger the tank is, the more better. You will need a heater, a good filter, basking light, and a dock where they can bask. Give them a variety of food such as pellets [Nutrafin, HBH Turtle Bites], live food [Guppies, Crickets], fruits/vegetables [Grapes, Romaine Lettuce]. When feeding, use another container. This helps to make your tank cleaner. Turtles can be messy eaters.

Answer 3

when i had mine i found it easeir to run 2 tanks They are messy lil creatures I was to worried so i adopted him out. how do you keep the turtle from getting stuck i mean they are only so wide ya know i've heard that you can use a deep freeze using refriderator shelves and s hooks for theyre crawl out area anyone else? mine loved raw hamburger and his shell gently avoiding center spine using a babies toothbrush. there are also some great live turtle webcam sites in arizona calif check 'em out

Answer 4

10 gallons per inch of shell minimum, basking spot, heat lamp, UVB reptile bulb, water heater, water filter, no substrate, frequent water changes, varied diet. Read this site for complete care info....there is so much more!

http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/caresheet-red_ear_slider.htm