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I ordered wholesale parts from partstrain on the net because shops want a fortune for them to do a brake job for this car. I'm a mechanical type of guy with tools and such. Can someone who REALLY knows brakes, ABS, please describe the steps I have to go through to get the old discs and pads off and the new ones on? Do I have to buy a parts manual for this car to do this job? A mechanic told me not to try it? of course...something about "dual piston calipers" and having to bleed them after I have the new discs & pads on and ...whatever. I would really appreciate the input and I hope I can get this done because..I can save a fortune. thank you

2007-12-07 05:26:02 · 3 answers · asked by Anonymous in Cars & Transportation Maintenance & Repairs

3 answers

definetly buy a manual, too much to list. this is not impossible just take your time and watch how you take it apart and you'll be fine. make sure you use the book

2007-12-07 05:32:24 · answer #1 · answered by rage43130 6 · 0 0

you should not go back to that mechanic or listen to anything he says. that is absolutely ridiculous.

first off, I recommend that you purchase OE replacement parts or a high quality replacement, such as brembo for the rotors and hawk for the brake pads. Do not fall for the gimmick of drilled rotors, and don't be cheap and get the brake pads from midas or another unknown source

the steps are:

1) jack up the car (duh) remove the wheel (double duh =) )
2) there will be 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the mounting bracket. take those off, hang the caliper from the suspension using strong wire or chain. don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. there might be a sensor that goes the caliper (like the pad wear sensor on a bmw m3) you have to unclip the sensor if there is one.
3) remove the caliper mounting bracket. this will require a lot of brute force as the bolts are torqued on tight. get some pb blaster and let it soak if there is corrosion
4) get the pads and rotors off the car, put the new rotor on the hub, use some antiseize on the face of the rotor where it connects to the wheel
5) put the caliper mounting bracket back on (torque it to spec. get a factory service manual to find out the specs. should be around 70ftlb)
6) put the pads on. make sure you put the backing plate on, and put brake lube where the backing plate meets the caliper
7) use a c clamp and the old brake pad to push the pistons back in
8) put the caliper back on to the mounting bracket
9) put the wheels one, lower the car
10) press the brake a couple of times so the piston is pushing on the pad. done.

no need to bleed the brakes, dual piston calipers don't make the job any different. get a new mechanic

2007-12-07 05:37:54 · answer #2 · answered by Nicholas N 4 · 1 1

I like Nicholas' answer but what I'll do is position my jack and raise the vehicle enough to take most of the pressure off the wheel. Then I'll loosen the lug nuts, raise the car, then remove everything else. Make sure you support the car with a jack stand; not just the jack.

The only reason to bleed the brakes is if they were funky before hand, ie. spongy, rubbery, etc. or if the fluid is old and brown, not a dirty honey color but dark brown. I bleed mine about every other pad change.

Definitely buy the better brand or you'll be doing this again next year.

2007-12-07 08:34:22 · answer #3 · answered by geezuskreyest 5 · 0 1

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