Rabbit breeders help please? Oxytosin?

Question

I gave my 2 3/4 lb doe 1/5cc at 7:30 p.m.. Nothing yet. It is now 12:10 a.m. Babies are still alive and seem further along but...Does anyone know when it is safe to re-dose? I'm hesitant to call my vet. He does not dealt with breeding rabbits before. Help?!

The dosage should have been 1/4cc but she's a little on the small side so I gave her a little less. Maybe I shouldn't have. I'm not sure.

Due date was 12/06/07 so she should be good to go. I've had does that go overdue with live babies but deliver they too late and, of course, they're dead when delivered. Hence the Oxytosin.

Answer 1

The actual gestation period for a rabbit is 28-32 days. I've raised rabbits for over 25 years and that was always a rabbit showmanship question in 4-H. The number of gestation days is the same as the number of teeth they have (28-32).

In 25 years, I have never had a rabbit go over 32 days. It is a rarity just for them to go over 30 days. Usually domestic rabbits are very precise regarding gestation and will almost always have them about right on the 30th day. I put the nestbox in on the 28th day (two days before they normally will have them). If they are "late", normally it is because the rabbit got bred when I was checking the doe back with the buck to make sure the breeding stuck.

Most rabbit breeders that show rabbits would tell you like myself that you probably don't need to use oxytosin. What I'd be more worried about is using the right bedding for the nestbox. Over the years my dad and I have sold a lot of 4-Hers and other rabbit breeders rabbits. We normally don't have problems with our rabbits having babies, however a number of the people we have sold rabbits to have. When we inquire as to what they are using for nestbox bedding, many of them state that they are using wood chips or hay. We don't like to use either of those as bedding because of their strong smell. We prefer to use straw instead since it doesn't have much of a smell and we make sure that the straw does not have a moldy smell to it.

Those breeders often would have trouble with their does scattering the litter. We told many of them to switch to straw and after they did the occurrences of their does scattering litters significantly dropped.

Don't throw the hamburger meat in for the doe. That is an old wive's tale and it will only draw flies which is not good. Make sure you are feeding a rabbit pellet with enough protein. The rabbit pellet should have at least 16% protein. Don't use a show formula to feed your doe when she is pregnant or milking. Show formula rabbit feeds do not have the amount of protein that pregnant or milking doe needs. A doe needs plenty of protein to milk properly. To help augment the amount of protein your doe gets to help it milk better you can feed your rabbit 1 tablespoon of Calf Manna a day.

Another thing, don't put the nestbox in too soon. If you do, the doe will pee and poop in it then not want to have babies in it. Avoid putting the nestbox in the corner where the doe pees or poops. It's also good not to have the nestbox too big or two small. The nest box should be about 1-2" wider and 1-2" longer than the doe measures when she is laying down. Rabbits like to have a place to hide when they have their babies. If the nestbox is too large then they don't feel like they can hid in it. If the nestbox is too small then they have trouble getting into it.

Lastly, it is a good idea to have holes in the bottom of the nestbox to allow any urine to drain out. Pegboard makes a really good nestbox flooring.

Answer 2

The gestation period is ~31-33 days. Does with a small litter (usually ≤4) seem to have a longer gestation period than does that produce larger litters. If a doe has not kindled by day 32 of gestation, oxytocin (1-2 IU) should be given to induce parturition; otherwise, a dead litter is almost always delivered sometime after day 34. Occasionally, pregnant does abort or resorb the fetuses due to nutritional deficiencies or disease.

I'll keep searching....

Oh go here...there are some good alternatives...
http://www.brightsidewoolies.com/articles/alt_to_oxy.htm

Answer 3

you have 2 recommendations to get a healthy, happy companion: a look after/rescue or rapidly from an excellent breeder. individually, I want to undertake from a look after or rescue. The rabbits there will be vet-checked and in lots of cases come spayed or neutered, for an adoption fee properly under what the vet verify & spay or neuter might fee. despite if it somewhat is a rescue that makes use of foster properties, they are able to additionally provide you a solid theory of what their temperament in a house venture is like. additionally they get in countless extremely youthful rabbits too, the two in one in all those pregnant women folk that provide delivery there, or litters dropped off while their vendors won't be able to locate them new properties. I merely observed a sparkling rabbit from the community look after final month, that they had 9 to compliment from, and merely approximately all have been under one million 12 months previous (and because rabbits stay 8-10 years or greater, all of them have countless existence previous to them!). in case you like a extremely youthful toddler and can't locate what you want at a look after, seek for a breeder at community rabbit shows. Ask questions. you want a breeder who has their inventory vet-checked, retains small numbers so as that they are able to furnish a great number of individual interest, and does no longer wean till 8 weeks previous on the earliest. they must be in contact in the wellbeing, temperament, and conformation of their rabbits, and could be waiting to show out to you the faults of the mummy and dad, and why they planned that particular pairing to strengthen their strains. The breeders that grant puppy shops and feed shops do no longer care approximately their animals (in the event that they did, they might like to reveal the properties their rabbits went to and furnish them help and advice and verify that they had existence-long properties and proper care), so as that they have got a tendency to reproduce substandard specimens (with wellbeing or temperament issues) considering the fact that they're in it for the money and high quality animals fee greater and shrink into their income. puppy shops surely tend to domicile them mutually and not making use of a quarantine era, and that mixed with the rigidity of going to a sparkling domicile generally leads to a unwell bunny some days as quickly as they arrive at your place. I even have yet to come across a puppy-save offered rabbit that did no longer have some variety of scientific or behavioral situation that stronger.

Answer 4

Oxytocin only works for uterine contractions during the second and third stages of labor.. If she isn't dilated enough yet, it won't do anything to hurry it along and probably won't do anything if she wasn't already in labor..
I raised Holland Lops for years and never, ever used oxytocin for a doe in labor.. I have used it for a doe that had a problem with lactation, but, that was it.. If this is her first litter, I'd let her go about it at her own pace.. She may well have one stuck and giving oxytocin sure won't help her in that situation..
In general, my rabbits were only in labor a very brief period of time.. If she's actually been in labor that long, you need to get her to a vet as she has one stuck..

Answer 5

Never heard of it. I have raised rabbits for years.Never gave them anything by injection.First litters can be small,2or 3 babys. Later on my rabbits have had as many as 15 with 13 survivors.Throw a little raw hamburg in with mother to keep her from eating young. After birthing mother need to replenish protien.I try to stay away from chemical care

Answer 6

3 hrs after the last baby has been born to help clean them out should be the last injection.

Answer 7

If this vet knows nothing about rabbit breeding, then get another vet and if your hesitant about asking his advice then why are you breeding rabbits, the welfare of your rabbits should come first.
If you are breeding from rabbits that are constantly late when giving birth, then you quite obviously are using the wrong does to breed from, in 35 years i have never had a late birth from any of my doe's.

This may not be relevant to your question and is not just about dutch rabbits.
A lot of pet owners like myself are still learning about our pets even after 35 years of owning rabbits. I hand the following out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit breeds. I live in the UK, I breed and exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lops rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50 years ago.
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.

Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.

Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.

Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots

Housing
For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6" off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.

Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings

Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).

Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.

Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.

Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.

Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.

To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.

Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).

Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.

Rabbit teeth, some rabbits have an over bight or an under bight which means that the teeth don't wear down properly, you have a choice here 1] Get your vet to pull the two front teeth out, 2] Get your vet to cut or file the two front teeth down, 3] You cut or file the teeth down. I prefer to do this job myself and cut the rabbits teeth, but I have never had to cut the teeth of any of the rabbits that I have bred. The name for this problem is malocclusion! Rabbits do far far better on a poor quality hay as they will chew this then excrete a pellet which they will eat so as to get more value out of the poor quality hay. This will also give them a more natural exercises to do and keep them occupied for longer.


Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-DOE (Dam) Young rabbit- KIT (offspring)
Breeding
Gestation 30 to 32 days, litter size 3 to 8, eyes open 10 to 12 days, weaning are 6 to 8 weeks
All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female rabbits die. Males can father a litter anytime from 9 months old up to 12 years old. When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.
If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock is always some one out there who will buy them.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest. Longhaired rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot of grooming and short hair rabbits require less grooming


My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.

Showing
The Hobby of Breeding & Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.

Contact me if you need any more help.

The following group is not just about ferrets, we have members who own all sorts of pets.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/intact-ferrets/
http://www.geocities.com/houseferrets13uk/Some_of_my_jills.html