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My hibiscus trees are the worst culprints

2007-12-05 02:36:50 · 5 answers · asked by Anonymous in Home & Garden Garden & Landscape

5 answers

"A currently licensed pesticide applicator" would know better than recommend an off label use of a pesticide, it's illegal. Use the pruning shear. RScott

2007-12-05 07:02:10 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 4 2

Hibiscus are suppose to do that unless the new limb is a foot or more away from the plant.

If at all possible, try to find out what type of hibiscus you have. Long ago, there were hibiscus that were invasive and grew wild. If you don't know what you have, cut a short branch with leaves off the main plant and take it to a nursery to find out what it is.

(In answer to your question, shoots/suckers need to be cut as soon as you see them. Below the soil line would be the best place to cut them.)

2007-12-05 03:17:16 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 3 1

Oh, but that's the best way to get new plants out of your hibiscus. Reyn is correct, just cut them out and root them. She also knows all about giving and has already given me some cuttings and some of them were hibiscus. I'm very thankful for the kindness of others. Anyhow, I'd just dig down and remove them. It really is the best way even if you do just throw them out. Chemicals are just bad news.

2007-12-05 14:38:27 · answer #3 · answered by Sptfyr 7 · 2 0

Be proactive doll, cut them, rootone them, plunkem in pots in clear plastic bags, sunny south window. New leaves = roots, harden off. Give as gifts or sell. all the cookies and all the crumbs. Beautiful.

Don't know a safe, chemically legal way to "stop" it. Sheoot, sendem to me! I'll pay the postage. What color are they?!

2007-12-05 11:51:27 · answer #4 · answered by reynwater 7 · 3 1

Certain trees and shrubs are prone to suckering. Plants planted too deep, stressed by diseases or insects can also reply with a profusion of suckering. If your hibiscus tree is generally healthy and not planted too deep, than you can do the following:

Prune the sucker at the root node. To do this either use a sharpened shovel or remove the soil carefully from the roots & prune with your pruners. Another option is the use of naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) that helps to inhibit the formation of suckers. This can be purchased in a commercial product known as Tre-Hold Sprout Inhibitor for Citrus. Always follow the label when using or purchasing any pesticide. Here is the label for Tre-Hold: http://www.amvac-chemical.com/media/pdf/products/specimen_labels/trehold.pdf

Additional Details: OOPS, I made a mistake. This product was originally labeled for ornamental use, but it has been changed. The AI remains the same, just a different product labeled for woody plant use in the ornamental garden - "SUCKER-STOPER RTU". Here is the appropriate label: http://www.cooperseeds.com/Label/sucker_stopper_rtu.pdf
That's why its so important to read and follow labels!

AD2: It's a federal offense to apply a pesticide contrary to its label. Mistakenly recommending a product whose label has been changed is only made into a federal case by those who wish to do harm. The legal responsibility rests with the user. "Caveat emptor" - buyer beware.

AD3: If you do prune, you need to prune at the root node. Just pruning below the soil level can still result in regrowth of the sucker. The NAA OPTION is listed for your consideration. It need not be part of your final solution, but it does offer a legal and effective choice that can reduce future suckering problems.

2007-12-05 03:22:16 · answer #5 · answered by A Well Lit Garden 7 · 1 6

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