HELP....plz my rabbit has just had babies what do i do?????

Question

hi i got my bunnies through an ad,which said they had both been doctored,so would be fine together,ive had them about 3 months,Well i went to feed them on friday and SURPRIZE....i found babies.ive removed the male but now what?????? has anyone any helpful advice i can understand..many thanks if you have.

ty everyone whos answered already,but i would like 2 know things like how old are the babies b4 i can see/touch them etc... ty

sorry 2 keep going on about this,she had her babies in the upper level inclosed bedroom,would i still have to get hetr a nesting box???? many thanks everyone

Answer 1

This may not be relevant to your question and is not just about dutch rabbits.
A lot of pet owners like myself are still learning about our pets even after 35 years of owning rabbits. I hand the following out to anyone who buys any of my rabbit breeds. I live in the UK, I breed and exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lops rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50 years ago.
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.

Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.

Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.

Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots

Housing
For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6" off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.

Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings

Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).

Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.

Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.

Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.

Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.

To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.

Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).

Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.

Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-DOE (Dam) Young rabbit- KIT (offspring)
Breeding
All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female rabbits die. Males can father a litter anytime from 9 months old up to 12 years old. When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.
If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock is always some one out there who will buy them.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest. Longhaired rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot of grooming and short hair rabbits require less grooming

My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.

Showing
The Hobby of Breeding & Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.

Contact me if you need any more help.

The following group is not just about ferrets, we have members who own all sorts of pets.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/intact-ferrets/
http://www.geocities.com/houseferrets13uk/Some_of_my_jills.html

Answer 2

I've been raising and showing rabbits for 25 years. Kuunoita gave you some good advice, however I'd like to make a few additions/corrections.

It is ok for you to touch the babies. I touch mine all the time often even minutes after they are born and the mother never bothers them. As Kuunoita said, you need to put in a nestbox for the babies. Line the nestbox with straw. I don't recommend hay or woodchips. You want to avoid using nestbox bedding that has a strong smell to it. Straw makes probably the best nestbox bedding. Just make sure the straw you use doesn't smell moldy. Make a divot in straw and place some of the fur in it. Pull fur if you have to from the doe if she didn't pull any. Check at least once a day to make sure that none of the babies have died and remove any dead babies as soon as you find them. The dead babies are not a result of handling the babies, it is usually a result of the mother having born more babies than she can milk.

As Kuunoita stated you'll need to check their eyes once the babies start opening their eyes. If you see one that doesn't have both of its eyes open when the others do then you'll need to pull the eyelids apart to open the eyes. If you don't the baby will go blind. If there is a mucasy substance on the eyes then get a bottle of regular Visine. It should say on the back that the active ingredient is like 2% Boric Acid. Put a drop or two in the eye if that is the case and keep pulling the eye open and repeating the Visine treatment each day until the eye clears up. If you don't the rabbit will go blind in that eye.

Also make sure that the babies don't work their way all the way down to the floor in the nest box. If they do and the floor is slick it can cause sproddled leg, where one leg juts out to the side. So make sure you keep bedding underneath them.

About a week or two after the babies are jumping out of the nestbox and eating rabbit pellets on their own you can wean them off the mother. Don't keep the babies on the mother for too long or they will wear her down.

By the time the babies reach about 60-70 days old, separate them into individual cages. If you don't, you may see them chewing each other's fur and biting each other. Sometimes they may even bite one of the other rabbit's tails off or bite nicks in the other rabbits' ears. If the babies are kept too long with the mother, you may notice the fur on the front of her face being gone from the babies chewing it off her.

Don't wait until the babies are 4 months old to separate them. Once they are about two months old you should start separating them into individual pens.

Don't worry about not seeing the mother milk the babies. Rabbits only milk their babies about one time per day. And usually that will be in the middle of the night when you are asleep. It's actually a bad sign if you see the mother sitting in the nestbox all of the time. If she is setting in the nestbox all of the time that means she is probably peeing and pooping a bunch in the nestbox which you don't want her to do and she possibly could also be sick. That reminds me of one other thing. Don't put the nestbox in the corner where she pees or poops. And once the babies start jumping out of the nestbox don't leave a small space between the nestbox and the cage wall. The babies often will try squeezing into the crack and get stuck and die.

Answer 3

I've been in your shoes--I had a rabbit who gave birth within two weeks of me bringing her home from the vet. My best advice is to create a little nest for the babies in a box lid. This way, the bunnies can squirm around without falling through the cracks of the cage, plus mommy bunny has room to nurse them when it is time to eat. Don't get concerned at first if you don't see the mother nursing the babies--most of the time, the mother will wait until you are in bed before feeding the youngsters, but once she realizes you are there to help, she will be more comfortable nursing in your presence. However, if you do not see the babies gaining a little bit of weight over the next week, you may need to get an eye dropper and feed the babies yourself. Ask a vet as to what you would actually put in the dropper. Other than all this, let mommy bunny do all the work. She knows exactly what to do, and it is really awesome to watch the babies grow from these little hairless creatures to little tiny baby bunnies. Another word of advice--stock up NOW on extra pellets and hay, because when those babies are on solid food, they are going to eat like those creatures from the movie "Critters." Also, prepare to remove mother from the cage once the babies get to be about eight weeks old because they will still go after her for nursing, and by then, she will feel overwhelmed. I hope this helps you out, and that my response isn't too long. :-)

Answer 4

First amke sure all the babies are still alive. Any that are dead remove and dispose of them.
You have to check everyday to make sure the doe is feeding them and caring for them.
It is a myth that the doe will kill or abandon the kits if you tough them. As long as she knows you it will be fine, if you are nervouse about touching them run your hand over the doe before you touch the kits. I have raised rabbit for over 15 years and I handle the kits from the day they are born. It makes them much friendlier and better pets.
If your doe did not have a nest box and the kits were born on the wire then you need to get a box for her. You can use a plastic shoe box if you have nothing else. The best nestboxes are made of wood. Put hay/straw in the box, take some of the fur the doe pulled and put it in the box make a little nest and put the kits in the nest.

The doe will care for the kits. At about 10-12 days the kits will open their eyes. You will have to make sure their eyes open by day 14 or they could end up being blind. If their eyes do not open by then you will have to wash their eys with a warm, wet washcloth. Remove any "gunk" if there is any. Most of the time their eyes are fine you just have to watch.

The kits will be able to be weaned form the mother by the time they are 6 weeks old. By then the doe will be tired of them and ready for them to go.

Make sure you seperate the kits by the time they are 4 months old to make sure they do not breed with each other.

Keep your rabbits seperated. Obviously they are not spayed or neutered. rabbits should not be kept together anyway as they can become very aggressive and hurt each other.

Answer 5

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Answer 6

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Answer 7

When I was younger, I had a rabbit that was going to have babies. The vet told me to feed the mother a piece of raw bacon and that would prevent her from wanting to eat her children. Other than that, rabbits are good parents.

Answer 8

DON'T TOUCH THEM UNTIL THEY ARE LIKE 6 WEEKS old. The lady where I got my bunny from she has bee raising rabbits for over 36 years. She said not to touch them until they are 6 weeks old. Or else, the mom will not feed them. Then you will have to feed them. Trust me, its not easy, I had to do that once.

Answer 9

That's so cute. Let the mother take care of them, feed the mother a bit more food and keep their place warm and clean. when they're old enough, about 1-2 months maybe you can sell the bunnies to other people. if you don't want to have anymore bunnies, neuter the male. rabbits reproduce very quickly.

Answer 10

First of all, do not handle the babies unless compleatly needed, only to check how they are. Handling them when they are very young will stress the mother. Feed the mother more and make sure they stay warm and healthy, if anything goes wrong call the vet asap.

Answer 11

Feed the mother some extras, keep them warm. The rest will come automatically