Gourami has red spots on right fin....progressed over time?

Question

My brown gourami began having red spots on its fin. At first it was one spot and we just dismissed it. Now, it's been a few months later and he has some more spots. He eats fine and swims fine, too.

In the aquarium, we have 2 tiger barbs, another gourami, and 3 bottom feeders. We know that barbs are known as "aggresive" fish but they have been in that aquarium for two years now and we have never observed them fighting and none of our fish have ever displayed signs of being attacked (fins, scales always in place).

We have a filter constantly running and good aeration. We do partial water changes with all the proper chemicals. And that aquarium has never had a problem with sick fish (i.e none of our fish have ever had ick or any other disease).

We've had that gourami for a few years now and it's always been fine. So I'm really at loss to what those red spots are, or even how he's gotten them.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=713rasl&s=1

Picture of my gourami.

Help?

Answer 1

I can think of three possibilities for what you're seeing.

1) An increase of nitrogenous wastes in the tank. You don't mention your tank size, but if you bought all the fish as juveniles and they've grown (or you added any of the fish recently) this has increases ammonia production in the tank. The previous amount of bacteria may not be able to handle the current bioload. If the tank is large and you're doing weekly water changes of 25% and vacuuming the gravel with each water change, I would eliminate this possibility.

2) Bacterial infection. This, like the ammonia/nitrogenous wates is usually linked to overcrowding, tanks which are still cycling, and poor water quality. Both typically appear as red streaks on the body and fins, and this seems limited to the "joint" of the fin.

3) Physical damage. With another gourami and the tiger barbs, is it possible another fish is picking on this one (either causing damage directly, or making the fish dart away so that it runs into other objects in the tank)? This seems to be the most likely explanation. Gouramis, especially if they are both males, will become territorial as they mature. They don't always tolerate the presence of another male in "their" space (consider that these are fairly closely related to bettas). Tiger barbs can be aggressive as well, and tend to pick on other fish if they aren't kept in a reasonable group of their own species (usually 6 or more).

Answer 2

Red Spots
Red spots or sores are the earliest stages of bacterial infection [Ulcer Disease] in the skin of Koi. Sometimes, abrasions sustained in the breeding frenzy can become infected. This is particularly true of the spawn has fouled the water or if the fish are crowded.

If there are rocks around the feeding area of your pond, these too can cause sores to come up. They hurt themselves in the feeding frenzy on the sharp rocks. Notice this ornamental deficiency in your pond if present.

In addition, some red spots are very commonly caused by infectious parasites which attack the skin, opening it to infection. Flukes are just one excellent example. Red spots are best treated according to information laid out in this web site.

Tricide Neo and Medicated food combine well to bring resolution of sores/spots or bacterial infection in the skin, but especially so once water quality and crowding issues are diagnosed and corrected.

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No matter what you ultimately do about this condition, please, FIRST, check your water for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. To learn more about these several important water quality parameters, please see this link. Establish that the Ph is higher than 7.0 using any of the many great test kits available. To raise pH you could use Baking Soda for the "quick fix" and then follow it up with a buffer. Make sure, too, that you have seen KoiCrisis.com - You can click on the fish there to get specific information about treatments and options.

Want a shotgun remedy for use on parasites and bacteria once you've ruled out crowding, poor water, high nitrogen or low pH?

Here's a perfect shotgun remedy that won't hurt fish:

(1) Salt to 0.3 or 0.6%
(2) Warm the fish no faster than one degree per hour, up to the mid seventies, or if you want to combat Koi Herpes Virus, use the same "one degree per hour" heating from their ambient temperature up to 86oF
(3) MediKoi food is, in my estimation, by far the best made, best formulated medicated food. It will help control bacterial infections.
(4) Dimilin handily controls comparatively rare but large parasites like Anchor Worms and Fish Lice.
(5) Prazi or Prazi containing medications controlf Flukes on Koi and Goldfish best.

Using all of the above at the same time can be highly successful against most parasitisms and infections. The space in which this is done should be the largest possible (100+ gallons), with plenty of hiding-cover, algae or live plants, and plenty of wter turnover for aeration. This protocol could be hampered when applied to salt-resistant Costia. A Formalin treatment on the way into the quarantine where the above will be applied will break the lifecycle of Costia and prevent it emerging in the quarantine tank.