you can use just about any interior paint. the main thing is you need to use an even coat of primer before.
2007-11-25 16:41:28
·
answer #1
·
answered by ROBERT C 2
·
1⤊
0⤋
Certainly your notion is valid as are some suggestions. I'll add my 2 cents and some questions.
You state the furniture is WOOD. Is it WOOD; as one might find in raw; unfinished furniture? OR is it MDF? Is it laminated over with any substance? IE: Mica or contact paper veneers?
If it's ACTUAL; raw; unfinished wood; my first inclination would be stain and clear coat; but that might not fit in with your plan; or aesthetic notions.
Then you might assume the use and abuse a desk will endure; especially the top; and the type of finish you want to achieve; IE: Glass Smooth? OR some level of texturing in any paint, or method of application.
Latex; while a great look; in hundreds of variations; might not work at all for a desk; especially the top; unless you clear coat it and perhaps even use a desk pad.
Some part of your thought may also go to; What SHEEN you want as a finish.
Then,,,and I love this part; you said "Can You?" As opposed to "Can I"...smile. The direct simple answer would be "YES" in either case.
You don't mention the finish of the other pieces? Are they painted? Do you want the desk to match?
Steven Wolf
thousands of gallons of paint later
2007-11-26 00:56:35
·
answer #2
·
answered by DIY Doc 7
·
0⤊
0⤋
I would go with.. DIY doc ...it really depends on what you bought...real wood, or the MDF, also called chipped board that has been laminated with (for a lack of better words) sticky paper, if it is laminated, and you are determined to paint it, I would use an oil based primer(spray), and spray top coat as well, most spray paints have some type of oil base to them (Flammable) your going to need allot of spray cans,spraying this type of surface gives you a more uniformed look, real raw wood oil base primer brush on, after dry sand lightly 120 grit paper, 2nd coat sand lightly again,dust off , and top coat, and open a window you don't want to breath the fumes in either case, better to be outside under a shelter,call some Friends this might take awhile.
2007-11-26 19:10:32
·
answer #3
·
answered by little eagle 4
·
0⤊
0⤋
You need to scuff it up with about 180 to 220 grit sandpaper...and definately do not use JUST ANY INTERIOR paint as suggested here already....Prime it with an OIL BASED primer....not A latex one, for the finish on the furniture now may be a solvent based coating...and if it isn't, the oil based primer is compatable with latex or oil based finish, when the latex primers are compatable with latex finishes only..You then have the option of putting A latex or oil based finish over the primer..it is compatable then...Oil base is a pain in the neck..so I would use a water based polyurethane as the finish..but the oil based primer is ESSENTIAL for A proper bond of whatever finish material you choose to use...
2007-11-26 00:26:59
·
answer #4
·
answered by pcbeachrat 7
·
0⤊
1⤋
In order to protect your paint job, I would apply a clear varnish over the paint after it has dried. This will help protect it from scratches. Varnish is oil based so you can paint over oil or water based paints.
2007-11-25 19:15:31
·
answer #5
·
answered by suzb49 6
·
0⤊
0⤋
Want you like to get instant access to over 16,000 woodworking plans?
Check it out https://tr.im/64742
Along with stone, mud and animal parts, wood was one of the first materials worked by early humans. Microwear analysis of the Mousterian stone tools used by the Neanderthals show that many were used to work wood. The development of civilization was closely tied to the development of increasingly greater degrees of skill in working these materials.
2015-01-25 04:31:01
·
answer #6
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋