I have some very old roughsawn lumber. I would like to use it for making furniture including some that could be exposed to water such as coffee tables. I don't want to sand the boards because the natural aged surface coloring and the saw marks are what give the boards their character.
I want to put a clear coat on the boards. I did a test on one board with polyurethane varnish and it soaked into the wood like water into a sponge. Even after several coats it still soaks in rather than covering the surface.
What can I use to finish this wood? Please help. Thanks!
2007-11-24 13:08:49 · 6 answers · asked by Critical Thinker 2 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
Without knowing at all the thickess of the wood; the species; the age; dryness; absorbency factor; eventually the buildup would bring the clear coat to the surface and beyond. In a very realistic sense the absorbtion you describe can only penetrate so far before it either leaches to the other side (Higly unlikely) or reaches the core of the lumber and backs up.
Again, without knowing any details; we can only imagine in suggesting. Thank you for stating you've done TESTS. I advise it in every similar situation. You might however; expand the testing to a multitude of finishes, and stop using the one you've been using. There are OIL options; such as TUNG which are designed to absorb; fill voids and fibers; to eventually become the surface finish; after multiple coatings.
A resin based product; IE: Epoxy; would allow less absorbtion. I'd be curious to know more details.
Steven Wolf
With all due respect varnish and Poly are two different substances/formulations.
One of the things I strongly suggest is design and build what you want first; allowing for cuts; etc. Then FINISH the result.
2007-11-24 13:24:31 · answer #1 · answered by DIY Doc 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Finishing Rough Cut Lumber
2016-10-30 04:27:34 · answer #2 · answered by keys 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
1st you have to get the wood from soaking up all of the varnish,,,try mixing a drying agent with the varnish,it's sold in all paint stores, but don't add to much, and use just enough for one coat...I learned this the hard way not to mix a whole gallon at one time, the next day I had a solid can of varnish,lol....let this (cure.)...for a few days, and if need be repeat until the wood stops soaking up the varnish...OK lets say the wood has stopped soaking up the varnish...there is a product made...(something like a varnish)...that is made just for bar tops...it looks like a piece glass on top of the bar after it is cured,,,you actually pour it on the surface...I haven't used it in over 25 years and that was in Texas..but I sure it is still made...just ask the guys at the paint store I'm sure they can help you...hoped this helped in some way..
2007-11-26 22:55:50 · answer #3 · answered by little eagle 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
sounds to me like your no6t lettin the varnish dry real good,try tape around thedges leaving about aninch of tape at the top stickin up,as to hold the varnishm like water,pour varnish out quarter in. deep an let dry bout a wk,that should fill all the cracks,u may have to add another coat after sawin
2007-11-24 13:19:44 · answer #4 · answered by THE"IS" 6 · 0⤊ 1⤋
exterier wood STAIN is really good & last a few Canadain winters, or Spar Varnish is a marine varnish they use on wooden boats & will last a long time too
2016-03-14 23:31:58 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
use a clear spray paint and put the furniture in a humid room with a bucket of ice
2007-11-24 13:11:51 · answer #6 · answered by tacodot12 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Sure, you can put it on,but that does not mean it's going to work!
2007-11-24 14:00:35 · answer #7 · answered by John BDB (call sign zig zag) 1 · 0⤊ 2⤋