How do you square out,when tiling a floor,this question is for people with tile experience?

Question

Please go into to detail,thankyou and happy thanks giving.

Answer 1

If the room isn't square, most likely not! You have to create "Square" Use the other guys plans and set up a laser line and stay the course, Take your time. don't lay out more then 3 feet if thinset at a time, Time will tell on you and everyone will know what kind of work you do. You do ask questions, so it sounds like you will do a good job.

Answer 2

Ok, this where the decision is made on the final sizes of your cuts. First thing I do, is make a list for spacing lines. Depending on size of tile, I usually add the lines for two tiles and two grout lines. For example, if the tile is say 11-7/8" and want a 3/16" line, then my list would look like this:
24-1/8"
48-1/4"
72-3/8", etc.

Sometimes, when the math is simple, I do the math in my head as I layout, because in the above example ever foot, I add a 1/16" But if odd size I make a list, sometimes it can be 27-9/16", so a list helps.

Next determine where your most cuts will be. Along a long wall, transition from tile to different flooring. It is best down halls to have even tile on both sides. I try to have full pieces along metal trim, but if it that leaves small pieces elsewhere then you may have cut the tile along metal trim. In a square room, it is easy to determine the size of the cuts, but when there is multi-rooms, then it can tricky. So I will make an educated guess. If there is a long wall, pop a caulk line parallel to that wall. The reason is if the walls are out of square, it will be obvious along a long wall if the cuts start getting longer or shorter, but along a short wall, it won't be as obvious. A long exterior wall is best, because the framers based the layout of walls with that wall probably. Then I find a spot along the line that will give me a good layout along perpendicular walls and transitions, using the same criteria for the other line. Then I pop a 90 line. I have a large 4' folder square. You can check for true 90, by lining the edge up to the first line, drawing a line, and then flipping the square over with same edge of the square on the first line, but on the opposite of the line you just drew. If the angle isn't 90 then the edge won't line up. It is the same idea as checking to make sure a framing square is a true 90. You can also use the 3-4-5 method. If an angle is square then, if you measure 3' along one leg, 4' along the other leg, then the hypotenuse is 5'. And you can use multiples, like 6-8-10.

Now that you have two lines square, and you pop a long line along the second line, then you can measure to get an idea what your cuts will be. If you measure, using the list as your guide, and you find you have some small cuts, then you can move the line over to make a cut more acceptable. Just remember if you move one of the first two lines it affects all the cuts parallel to that line. If move the line 2" to the left, all the cuts to left are 2" shorter and all the cuts to the right are 2" longer. If you had a full tile to right, then now you have a 2" piece. So all you did was transfer the problem of a small piece elsewhere. After you figure out the best layout, and you may have to make compromises by hiding small cuts in closets, or smaller rooms, then you can pop lines ever two rows of tile, stock the floor, turn up the radio, mix some mortar, and tile away.

Have fun. Hope you had Happy Thanksgiving yesterday.

Answer 3

Certainly there are various ways. I prefer diagnoally measuring corner to corner, but I also check square at the immediate corners as well.

Obviously that might only benefit you if the area is completely open to each of 4 or more corners.

A habit I've gotten into after multiple thousands of sq. ft. of tile is...AFTER squaring; after snapping two perpendicular chalk lines; and after some measuring; I lay out two opposing courses of tile.

Of course measuring, and noting it all on paper can be as effective; I just do it as I do because it works for me. For one thing it allows me to actually SEE what the floor will look like and allows that I can adjust the center lines one way or another for aesthetic purposes allowing the most full pieces to be shown. I save all my cuts for the end, and that center adjusting also allows that if I have to have cuts on two opposing walls, I can likely make them even in measurement.

I usually remove all cove base; use a lot of 1/4 rubber + spacers, allow even as much as 1/4 inch in my cut pieces away from a wall, to then be covered by replacing the cove base. I use a TOOL to cut any door framing up high enough to allow tile under. I use a notched flat tooth trowel with 1.4 teeth for mortar, and I begin in the center/ cross hatch, but always work my way toward an exit, so that no set tile ever has pressure applied to it after setting.

Etc. Etc. Etc.

Steven Wolf

Answer 4

measure the length and width and find center point of room.

chauk line center from width and lenght. this is now the statr of
four squares starting at center and work your way out

Answer 5

If you have never done it before they have some good tips for beginners @ HomeDepot.com or Lowes.com