Snake tips?

Question

I'm really into getting a corn snake or a ball python. I have read lots of articles about both and can provide the environment they need. I have never had a snake before so if anyone has any tips on snake care or tricks on handling a snake that would be a big help!

Answer 1

I owned a Ball for 7 years and can't complain. She grew to about 4 feet and developed a cute little personality. Bit me only once (didn't hurt), and that's because I fed her live rats and gerbils and my finger got mistaken as prey in between giving her two--my dumb mistake, not hers. She was sweet and loved to give kisses and hang around my neck, literally for HOURS.
Activity levels sorta depend on the habitat you build for them. They are native to African grasslands and don't do a lot of climbing or moving about--in the wild they go from one rodent hole to the next never expending more energy than they have to. I built for Brittney a couple branches to hang-out on, which she would depending on the temperature of the enclosure. K, hope this helps some.
--gav

Answer 2

For a first snake I would recommend a cornsnake over a ball python. They are much easier to care for and don't have the feeding issues that the balls can have. They also come in a wide range of colors and almost all have good temperaments. Mostly it's the feeding issues that people have with the ball pythons that turns them off. It's the number one problem people have with them. Either way, if you get one or the other, get them from a breeder. There's almost no wild caught cornsnakes out there anymore, but petstores routinely sell imported ball pythons. They are nothing but trouble and usually have parasites and issues. The stores tend to house multiple animals together as well, leading to stress and health problems. Get any snake you buy from a reputable breeder. It will save you a lot of headaches.

Answer 3

If you want a snake that will curl around your wrist and stay put, get a ball python. If you want one that will move around and be active and interesting, get a corn. They have very different personalities, so be sure to choose the one that most suits your lifestyle.

I would suggest getting a yearling or two year old for your first snake. Hatchlings are very tiny, delicate, and tend not to eat well. It's better for your first snake to be older and more stabile.

Other than that, the two snakes are very docile, so you shouldn't have much trouble. Just remember to wash your hands before and after handling your snake- before, so that your hands never smell like food or other animals, which could get you bitten, and after to prevent the spread of salmonella and other diseases.

Answer 4

I've had both a corn and a python.
If you think you know what you need to know the only thing i can tell you is to never feed them in the same cage they live in, otherwise they will think of food whenever you would like to hold them and that will seriosly up your chances of being bitten.
goodluck.

Answer 5

I like the amount of info provided by this forum on corn snakes--take a look!

http://cornsnakes.com/forums/

Answer 6

Ball pythons are great pets. They are very docile, beautiful & inexpensive. They are easy to care for and don't get too big.

Answer 7

ball pythons make great pets and they r cooler than corns
here is a care sheet from reptiles r us.ca
Common Name:Ball Python or Royal Python

Latin name: Python regius

Native to: Central and Western Africa

Size:Adult ball pythons average in size from three to five feet

Life span: Ball pythons are one of the longest-lived snakes. It is not unusual for these pythons to live 20 - 30 years in captivity.

General appearance:Ball pythons are named for their defense behavior of rolling into a tight ball with their head in the middle. Like all other pythons, ball pythons have spurs at their vents. There are many different color morphs and patterns available today in captive bred specimens. The "standard" ball python has large chocolate brown markings with lighter medium-brown spots interspersed between the darker spots. The belly is generally off-white or a pale gray.

Enclosure: Remember that all snakes are escape artists and when designing an enclosure it is of the most importance that whatever enclosure is used is made as escape-proof as possible. Generally an adult ball python should be kept is a 30-gallon sized enclosure (12 inches x 36 inches).

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be maintained at 80° - 85° F with a basking temperature of 90° - 95° F. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F.



Humidity:humidity level between 45 and 60 percent. Humidity levels that are too low promote respiratory stress, while levels that are too high can lead to skin infections. Water bowls often provide sufficient humidity in a glass tank. However humidity levels can be increased by misting the tank occasionally, but are should be taken to avoid over-misting. A hygrometer should be used to measure humidity levels. It is especially important to maintain adequate humidity during shedding periods.

Heat/Light:If a regular photo period is provided it is recommended to use fluorescent bulbs in order to minimize the extra heat generated by incandescent bulbs. When providing heat, do NOT use hot rocks. Red basking bulbs or ceramic emitters can be used to generate basking spots. Under the tank heating pads can also be used to help raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure.

Substrate: Newspaper and aspen make excellent substrate even though it is not very attractive. It is easy to clean and is excellent to use when acclimating new ball pythons to their enclosure. Aspen shavings are usually an excellent choice if using wood shavings. Do not not use ceder toxic vapors .

Diet: Hatchlings can be started off feeding on pinkie mice. Juveniles and adults can gradually take larger prey of fuzzy mice, adult mice or young rats. Young snakes can be fed 1 - 2 times a week. Thawed frozen rodents are the easiest and safest way to feed snakes but as said before some will only eat live. A supply can be kept in your freezer and there are no problems from live mice biting your snake. Water should be provided in a bowl. The snake will drink from it and may soak itself before it sheds. Adult ball pythons can be fed two to three adult mice per week. Hatchlings and juvenile animals can be fed one appropriately sized prey item per week. It is important to note here that ball pythons are notorious for not eating on a regular schedule. If your new ball python does not eat immediately it is important to not panic. Ball pythons have been known to go months without eating. Often a variety of foods may need to be offered in order to get the snake to eat and often many will only eat live food.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be offered daily. If using newsprint then clean as needed. Wood shavings should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be disinfected.


and if u decicide to get a corn snake then here is also a care sheet gpt them from reptiles r us.ca
Corn Snake



Common Name:Corn Snake, Red Rat Snake

Latin name: Elaphe guttata guttata

Native to: Mid-Atlantic and Southeastern United States

Size: Hatchling corn snakes range in size from 9 - 14 inches in length. Adult corn snakes reach anywhere from 2 to five feet. Males tend to achieve a larger size than females.

Life span: 12 - 15 years, the captive record is 21 years.

General appearance: Corn snakes are a slender snake with black bordered, irregular red or rust colored dorsal blotches. Background color can range from brilliant orange to silvery gray. The belly is white with a black checkerboard pattern. The body scales are smooth to weakly keeled and the sub-caudal scales are divided.

Enclosure: five gallon tank for hatchlings and juveniles to 30 gallon fish tank for adults.

Heat/Light: Corn snakes require a supplemental hot spot to adequately digest food and remain active. They should be provided with a heat pad or overhead incandescent light that will provide an area of about 1/3 of the enclosure that achieves a temperature of 85° - 90° F. Hot rocks are unstable and often get far too hot they are not recommended any reptile.

Temperature:Ambient air temperature should range between 78° - 82°F during the day and may drop to 65° - 70°F at night. Temperatures at the basking area should provide the snake with a constant hot spot of 85° - 90°F.

Substrate: Newspaper, butcher paper, paper towel, indoor/outdoor carpeting, aspen shavings and cypress mulch (for larger individuals). Avoid any cedar based wood shavings, as they exude irritating and possibly toxic vapors.

Diet: Corn snakes of all ages feed mice. It is highly recommended that keepers feed their animals only humanely pre-killed food items to eliminate the risk of injury to the snake from the bite of a mouse but some will only take live. Never leave live rodents with snakes unattended. If live food is offered and not eaten within 30 minutes, remove it. Never feed captive snakes food procured from the wild. Wild animals possess potentially harmful internal parasites that can build up to debilitating numbers in captivity. Baby corn snakes should be voluntarily feeding on pink or fuzzy mice prior to their sale in a retail outlet. As they grow corn snakes should be fed appropriately larger food items. A good rule of thumb for feeding all captive snakes is that the food item should not be larger than 1 and times the girth of the snake at its thickest point. Adult corn snakes can be adequately maintained on 2 to 3 adult mice week.

Maintenance: Enclosures should be spot checked for fecal matter daily. It is recommended that carpet substrates be removed and washed at least weekly. Paper substrates should also be changed weekly. If conscientiously spot cleaned, wood based substrates can be replaced every 2 to 3 weeks. Water bowls should be cleaned and replaced at least weekly and any uneaten dead food should be removed after 2 - 3 hours.

i hope this helps