Rabbits are unique in that they ovulate "on demand", that is, as soon as the buck mates, she releases an ovum. She will have conceived within 12 hours or so. That's why they are such prolific breeders.
2007-11-18 10:03:17
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answer #1
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answered by Michael B 6
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Getting startedRaising rabbits can be one of the most exciting parts of your rabbit project. but there are also somethings to consider when you decide to raise your own rabbits. One should be will you be able to care for a mother rabbiut and her young, Are your rabbits the right age to be bred and are they healthy.
Before your rabbits are bredRabbits that are to be used for breeding should be at least 5 months old for the small breeds, 6 months for the medium breeds, and the larger breeds should not be breed until they are about 9 months or more. Rabbits should also be very healthy and free of disease, especially contagious dieseases suchs as snuffles.
Selecting your doe and buck.The next step will to decide which rabbits you are going to breed, if you only have one male rabbit or buck and one female rabbit. or doe, that are healthy and old enough to be bred the decsion is already made, if you have more than one rabbit, you will need to see what rabbits are the best representives of there breeds, I might be a good idea to know a few things about your breed. for example you don't want to breed to dutch rabbits, that are mismarcked in the same spot.
Breeding your Rabbits. When you have your breeding pair the next thing to do would be to breed them. one point to remember is the Doe should always be taken to the bucks cage, not the other way around since, if you put the buck in the doe's cage, she may be more interested in defending her territory then being bred. when the doe is put in with the buck, he will usually chase her around for awhile, or in some cases the doe will fight the buck and attack him, unless you see them truly hurting eachother don't separate them the doe will eventually tire herself out. Some does will be scared to be in a strange territory and will not resist the buck at all. If you have a doe that will just not let the buck near her you can use a technique called forced mating. This is wear you hold the doe down for the buck. If you are sure a mating has taken place, which is usually after the buck mounts the doe and falls off of her, you can return the doe to her own hutch. Sometimes it is also good idea to return the doe to the buck 8 hours later for another breeding, that way if she did not conceive the first time, she may this time.
Is she pregnant?Just because mating has taken place does not mean that she is pregnant. The gestation period of a rabbit is 28-32 days so you can also count the days to know when to expect the litter. There are a few ways to find out one is weigh your doe right before you breed her. keep her on the same ration of food and weigh her again about 10 or so days later if she has gained some weight there's a good chance she's pregnant. Another way you can tell if a doe is pregnant, is to do a test mating, this is wear you return the doe to the buck about 1 week to 10 days after the first mating it is thought that if the doe fights the buck and refuses to be bred she is pregnant, but a doe who is pregnant will sometimes except the buck again even tho she is pregnant, and a doe who isn't pregnant may fight the buck or run from him even thought she isn't pregnant, so this isn't always a good way to tell. the next and probably the best way to tell if your doe is pregnant is a technique called Palpation. this can be done 10 days to 2 weeks after the mating. You will put the doe on a flat surface, and hold her by the scruff of the neck, and feel around the belly for objects that feel like marbles, if you feel these marbles then you know she is pregnant, but palpation does take some time to learn.
Diet for the Pregnant doe. Since the Gestation period ( period of time from conception to birth) is 28-32 days, most breeders keep the doe on her normal ration of feed for the first half of her pregnancy which is about 15 days, after the first 15 days the diet is increased so if you are giving your doe 3 ounces of food for the first half give her another ounce.
Nest boxesThe nest box, is a small box that is put in the hutch around the does 27th day of gestation, It is best to put the nesting box in at this time becuase if a doe Kindles early ( gives birth to babies) which is usually 28 or 29 days of gestation it will alow her the time she needs to make her nest, if it is put in before this time, the mother may just use it as a litter box. In warm weather the nest box will need about an inch or so of woodchips and a light layer of straw, the mother will pull out her fur to make the rest of the nest. In cold weather you can add more woodshavings and straw and you might also want to add some extra insulation, such as some cardboard around the sides. nest boxes can be made from wood, wire or metal. and can also be made out of wood you have around the house.
Pre kindling behavior As the doe gets closer to her due date, you may notice some behavior changes in your Doe. She might begin making a nest as soon as she is given her nest box, nest building will usually include the doe pulling out her fur and arranging everything in the nest box. You may also see the Doe carrying around mouthfuls of hay or straw along with the fur she has pulled. Some does will make a nest a few days before the baby rabbbits ( or kits) are born, other does like some people will wait until the last moment, One night the nest box my be complitely untouched by the morning the nest has been made and the babies has arrived. Some other changes to look for the doe may eat less a few days before kindling and also be more nervous than normal.
The litter arrives. On the day the litter arrives, and you go to check on your doe you may first only see and nest, but you will want to look closly you will see that the fur seems to me puffed up and seems to be moving a bit, This is usually a good indication that the litter has arrived. you will want to check on the litter ( to check for any dead or hurt babies). Before you check on the litter you will want to distract the mother rabbit this can usually be done with a piece of apple or another one of her favorite treats. Once the mother rabbit is distracted you can check on the litter. First gently place your hand on top on the nest it should feel warm and you should feel movement. next you will want to check for any dead babies and take a count to see how many babies there are, which can sometimes be a little difficult since the babies are usually pilled on top of each other. newborn bunnies have no fur and there eyes are shut.
Fostering Sometimes you will have a doe who either has an overly large litter or will refuse to care for her litter. In this case you can foster some of the babies.(give one does babies to another mother with a smaller litter). It is always a good idea to breed 2 does on the same day incase you will need to foster any babies. The rabbits should be given to a rabbit with a litter of about the same age. Most Does nurse there litter at night so the babies should be moved to the other mother in the morning that way by feeding time they all smell the same to the Doe.
Diet for the doe and litter Once the litter is born the mother rabbit will need more food and water, at this time you can give her a constant suppy of pellets. and it might also be a good idea to give her some green this will give her body another suppy of water and protein. The doe should be given a little less food right after Kindling so she does not produce milk to fast,which can cause caked breast. Once the litter is out of there nest box (which is usually about 3 weeks) Food should be available at all times along with water. the pelleted feed should have about 17% protein.
The litter .from the time the Litter is born until they are about 2 and a half weeks old, you will want to check on them daily to be sure they are being feed properly and that all the babies are alive and that none of them have fallen out of the nest box. when the babies are about 10 days old there eyes will begin to open it is important to keep a close eye on the babies to make sure that there are no watery eyes and that there eyes are not stuck shut ( which can be a sign of an eye infection). Once the Litter is 3 weeks they will be out of the nest box and eating regular food along with milk. The nest box should be left in the hutch until the litter is 3 weeks after that there is really no need for it. In cold weather it might be a good idea to leave it a little longer, unless it is extremly dirty.
Weaning
When the Kits are about are about 6-8 weeks old they are ready to be weaned. Weaning is the process of removing the young from the mother so they are no longer receiving her milk. Weaning is done at 6-8 weeks becuase by then the little is eating solid food and drinking water, and are getting to big for the milk. It is best to only separate some of the babies at one time so the doe can gradually adapt to the amount of milk she will need to produce, example if you have 6 in a little and 3 of them are smaller you might want to move the larger babies of the litter and leave the smaller ones to continue getting milk. The litter can also be separated by sex by 8 weeks young bucks may begin to act like adults and will become territoral, so you might want to separate the bucks first.
2007-11-18 18:56:27
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answer #5
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answered by Olivia W 3
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