1975 Ford F100 not firing?

Question

I have a 1975 Ford F100 302ci that has been sitting up for 3 years. I changed the battery and gas (expecting an easy start); however, the plugs wern't even sparking (yes the truck turns over great) so I changes the Coil, Condenser, and Points. Still no spark does anyone know of anything else. How can I tell if I am even getting any power to the coil and does it matter which wire goes on what side of the Coil. All answers appreciated the answer that leads to a spark wins points!!!!

Answer 1

Ford coils have a push on connector. Push back evenly on both sides to remove. Check for corrosion on the spade connectors. On the connector it will be marked "+" which will be hot when the key is on. With a test light check for continuity. The "─" side goes to the points.
Clip on a remote starter button on the starter relay by the battery. Turn the ignition to the ON position.
Crank the engine with remote starter. If there is power on the "+" side then check the "─" side. The light should flash meaning the points are functioning properly. If the light stays on but doesn't flash, the point gap is too wide.
The coil checks OK → then remove the coil wire from the coil & check for damaged or corrosion. Place a screwdriver in the coil & another to ground so there is about a ¼" gap between the two. Crank the engine, the spark should jump the gap. If there is spark at the coil, then place the coil wire back in the coil, hold the wire ¼ " from a good ground, & turn the engine over again. If there is good spark, then remove all spark plug wires from the cap, one at a time & replace one at a time. There maybe some corrosion on the electrodes.

Good Luck. . .

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Answer 2

The wires on the coil do matter which is where. There is a positive and negative, if you reverse them it won't work. Most coils have a + mark on the positive side and the wire is usually colored red. If you know how to use a volt ohm meter, you can check it there. The power(12vdc) for the coil usually comes straight from the ignition switch to the coil. The way they work, when the points are closed, the coil charges up, as soon as they start to open, they dump the high voltage spark. You can do this manually, the power on the points is low voltage and won't bite. you can put a spark plug on the end of the coil wire, ground the plug to the motor and manipulate the points and watch for a spark.Worth a try, vs. The shotgun method.

Answer 3

This an old truck. I not think how the Coil is wired matters, but, I would connect it correct. I think it have a + and - and then the coil wire to the distributor. A working Test Light can tell you if it get hot. Just touch to the + side and it should light. Normally the coil was reliable back in the day. Once I did buy a bad condenser, but, the old was good so I swapped it back. It not fire if the condenser bad. I will assume you say it not fire with either condenser. All that I think that is left is Distributor Cap, Rotor and Wires. Most everything you replaced, if it ran before it should spit or sputter now, but, if the wires got bad from sitting this may be the problem. If, you have a car with a good coil wire that running use it temporary to see if you can get something.

Answer 4

Check the wires going to the coil with a test light KEY on If the points are getting fire you can see it spark when you crank the engine. set the points at 35 thousands yes connect the wires to the coil correctly You may have a bad coil to cap wire that needs to be changed on that year of ford make sure that the small ground wire on the battery is good and grounded. really check this wire closely. IT could have melted if you jumped your battery

Answer 5

Did you gap the points right?
Did you connect the ground strap in the distributor?
The ground strap in the distributor has caused me a lot of problems in old cars and trucks.
The way the coil is wired is critical.
For a quick check, run a wire from the plus terminal on the battery to the plus terminal on the coil and try starting it.
If it will fire up then the problem is some place before the coil.
There may be problems at the starter relay, or switch.

Answer 6

My suited wager thinking each and every of the artwork you have completed is that think approximately some crud in the gasoline tank it is interfering with gasoline bypass once you're on an incline. My thinking is that the debris it is interfering with the gasoline bypass is merely too huge to get sucked into the clear out and is clogging the gasoline feed whilst the tank is at an incline. evaluate changing the tank or having it wiped sparkling and reinstalled.