I'm thinking of getting a snake, which breed?

Question

I want a snake real bad, but it cant be too big my mum said 2 foot or a bit bigger for when it grows up .... I just want to know the breeds f snake that are around that size .... if any, I'm going to buy a tank as big as it needs it'll be in my room so there wont be any loud vibrations or anythig to scare it, I've never had a snake before so please tell me something that would be ideal for a 'begginer' and please give me some tips

Answer 1

mabee a
ball python they r great for beginer reptile keepers...
here is a care sheet on ball pythons from reptiles r us.ca

Common Name:Ball Python or Royal Python

Latin name: Python regius

Native to: Central and Western Africa

Size:Adult ball pythons average in size from three to five feet

Life span: Ball pythons are one of the longest-lived snakes. It is not unusual for these pythons to live 20 - 30 years in captivity.

General appearance:Ball pythons are named for their defense behavior of rolling into a tight ball with their head in the middle. Like all other pythons, ball pythons have spurs at their vents. There are many different color morphs and patterns available today in captive bred specimens. The "standard" ball python has large chocolate brown markings with lighter medium-brown spots interspersed between the darker spots. The belly is generally off-white or a pale gray.

Enclosure: Remember that all snakes are escape artists and when designing an enclosure it is of the most importance that whatever enclosure is used is made as escape-proof as possible. Generally an adult ball python should be kept is a 30-gallon sized enclosure (12 inches x 36 inches).

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be maintained at 80° - 85° F with a basking temperature of 90° - 95° F. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F.



Humidity:humidity level between 45 and 60 percent. Humidity levels that are too low promote respiratory stress, while levels that are too high can lead to skin infections. Water bowls often provide sufficient humidity in a glass tank. However humidity levels can be increased by misting the tank occasionally, but are should be taken to avoid over-misting. A hygrometer should be used to measure humidity levels. It is especially important to maintain adequate humidity during shedding periods.

Heat/Light:If a regular photo period is provided it is recommended to use fluorescent bulbs in order to minimize the extra heat generated by incandescent bulbs. When providing heat, do NOT use hot rocks. Red basking bulbs or ceramic emitters can be used to generate basking spots. Under the tank heating pads can also be used to help raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure.

Substrate: Newspaper and aspen make excellent substrate even though it is not very attractive. It is easy to clean and is excellent to use when acclimating new ball pythons to their enclosure. Aspen shavings are usually an excellent choice if using wood shavings. Do not not use ceder toxic vapors .

Diet: Hatchlings can be started off feeding on pinkie mice. Juveniles and adults can gradually take larger prey of fuzzy mice, adult mice or young rats. Young snakes can be fed 1 - 2 times a week. Thawed frozen rodents are the easiest and safest way to feed snakes but as said before some will only eat live. A supply can be kept in your freezer and there are no problems from live mice biting your snake. Water should be provided in a bowl. The snake will drink from it and may soak itself before it sheds. Adult ball pythons can be fed two to three adult mice per week. Hatchlings and juvenile animals can be fed one appropriately sized prey item per week. It is important to note here that ball pythons are notorious for not eating on a regular schedule. If your new ball python does not eat immediately it is important to not panic. Ball pythons have been known to go months without eating. Often a variety of foods may need to be offered in order to get the snake to eat and often many will only eat live food.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be offered daily. If using newsprint then clean as needed. Wood shavings should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be disinfected.



or mabee try getting a corn snake
her is a care sheet from reptiles r us
Corn Snake



Common Name:Corn Snake, Red Rat Snake

Latin name: Elaphe guttata guttata

Native to: Mid-Atlantic and Southeastern United States

Size: Hatchling corn snakes range in size from 9 - 14 inches in length. Adult corn snakes reach anywhere from 2 to five feet. Males tend to achieve a larger size than females.

Life span: 12 - 15 years, the captive record is 21 years.

General appearance: Corn snakes are a slender snake with black bordered, irregular red or rust colored dorsal blotches. Background color can range from brilliant orange to silvery gray. The belly is white with a black checkerboard pattern. The body scales are smooth to weakly keeled and the sub-caudal scales are divided.

Enclosure: five gallon tank for hatchlings and juveniles to 30 gallon fish tank for adults.

Heat/Light: Corn snakes require a supplemental hot spot to adequately digest food and remain active. They should be provided with a heat pad or overhead incandescent light that will provide an area of about 1/3 of the enclosure that achieves a temperature of 85° - 90° F. Hot rocks are unstable and often get far too hot they are not recommended any reptile.

Temperature:Ambient air temperature should range between 78° - 82°F during the day and may drop to 65° - 70°F at night. Temperatures at the basking area should provide the snake with a constant hot spot of 85° - 90°F.

Substrate: Newspaper, butcher paper, paper towel, indoor/outdoor carpeting, aspen shavings and cypress mulch (for larger individuals). Avoid any cedar based wood shavings, as they exude irritating and possibly toxic vapors.

Diet: Corn snakes of all ages feed mice. It is highly recommended that keepers feed their animals only humanely pre-killed food items to eliminate the risk of injury to the snake from the bite of a mouse but some will only take live. Never leave live rodents with snakes unattended. If live food is offered and not eaten within 30 minutes, remove it. Never feed captive snakes food procured from the wild. Wild animals possess potentially harmful internal parasites that can build up to debilitating numbers in captivity. Baby corn snakes should be voluntarily feeding on pink or fuzzy mice prior to their sale in a retail outlet. As they grow corn snakes should be fed appropriately larger food items. A good rule of thumb for feeding all captive snakes is that the food item should not be larger than 1 and times the girth of the snake at its thickest point. Adult corn snakes can be adequately maintained on 2 to 3 adult mice week.

Maintenance: Enclosures should be spot checked for fecal matter daily. It is recommended that carpet substrates be removed and washed at least weekly. Paper substrates should also be changed weekly. If conscientiously spot cleaned, wood based substrates can be replaced every 2 to 3 weeks. Water bowls should be cleaned and replaced at least weekly and any uneaten dead food should be removed after 2 - 3 hours

or mabey try a king snake/milk snake
here is a care sheet from reptiles r us

Kingsnakes and Milk Snakes



Common Name:Kingsnakes and Milk Snakes

Kingsnakes and Milk Snakes
Latin name: Lampropeltis spp.(king snakes) -Lampropeltis triangulum(milk snake)

Native to: North America (excluding Canada) (king snake) - Southeastern Canada to northern South America (milk snake)

Size: 3 - 4 feet average up to 6 feet(king snake) - 2.5-6 feet ( milk snake)

Life span: 10 - l5 years

General appearance: Head is small and not distinct from the body. They are smooth scaled with a variety of colors and patterns. Kingsnakes are constrictors and are usually active at dawn and dusk.

Enclosure: Glass aquariums are good to use and are easy to clean. Hatchling kingsnakes can be housed in 10-gallon enclosures. Adults should be housed in 20-gallon enclosures or larger such as a 60 gallon tank. A secure lid is essential or the snake will escape. Kingsnakes must be housed alone because they will eat other snakes.

Temperature/Humidity: .As with other reptiles, providing the appropriate heat gradients is of utmost importance to the health and well being of your snake. Generally, milk and king snakes need a gradient of about 76-86 F (24-30 C) in their cage during the day, with a drop to about 70-74 F (21-23 C) at night (there may be more exact temperatures for different species). The gradient should be horizontal as well as vertical, and hides should be provided at least at each end of the gradient. Humidity: The humidity should be in the 40% - 60% range. When a snake turns opaque it is getting ready to shed.Raise the humidity level to help in the shedding process. Humidity: The humidity should be in the 40% - 60% range. When a snake turns opaque it is getting ready to shed.Raise the humidity level to help in the shedding process.

Heat/Light: Heating pads placed under one half of the enclosure are the best way to provide heat. This will give the kingsnake a range of temperature to move within. Aquarium glass can draw heat away from the kingsnake. Be sure to place a thermometer inside to measure correct temperature. Additional UV lighting is not needed for snakes. An incandescent basking light can be used during the day.Lighting: No special lighting is needed for milk snakes. The ambient room light is enough.

Substrate: Newspaper is inexpensive and easily changed when soiled. Other Choices are aspen shavings, outdoor carpeting or aquarium gravel which are more attractive to look at. A shelter or hide box is needed so the snake has a dark area to rest and feel secure. A rock or branch should be included to give an abrasive spot for the snake to rub upon to help with shedding.

Diet: Milk snakes feed on a wide variety of animals including mice, reptiles, amphibians, invertebrates, reptile eggs, birds and birds' eggs. They are a type of kingsnake and will consume venomous snakes when they chance upon them. They are at least partially immune to the venom of the venomous snakes in their range and many venomous serpents will use defensive tactics other than biting to protect themselves from kingsnakes. Young snakes comprise a large portion of a baby milk snakes diet, but they are not found to be the most significant food item for adults. Milk snakes are constrictors and kill their food by suffocation. Regurgitation is relatively common in these snakes, and can result from handling them too soon after a meal. Other causes can be food that is too large, an enclosure that is too cool, or illness. If regurgitation is recurring after correcting the environmental and feeding causes, check with a vet.

Water: Water should be provided in a bowl. The snake will drink from it and may soak itself before it sheds.

Maintenance: Cleanliness of the enclosure is essential. Waste products should be moved daily. Bowls must be clean with fresh water. Handlers are advised to wash their hands after holding any animals or animal related products.

or mabee try a kenya sand boa
here is a care sheet from reptiles r us
Kenyan sand boa





Common Name: Kenyan Sand Boa, Egyptian Sand Boa, East African Sand Boa

Latin name: Eryx colubrinus

Native to: East Africa; Egypt south to Tanzania, southwest Somalia west to Kenya Size: Female Kenyan sand boas are generally larger than males reaching lengths of 26 to 40 inches in length and weighing up to two pounds. Males generally smaller only reach 15 inches in length.

Life span: Kenyan sand boas can quite easily live for more than 15 years.

General appearance: Both the Egyptian sand boa and the Kenyan sand boa are heavy body snakes with small heads, small eyes, and short tails. The belly and is white or cream colored in both subspecies. The Egyptian sand boa has a yellow coloration with dark brown splotches. The Kenyan sand boa has an orange coloration with dark brown splotches. Various color morphs are also now available including albino and axanthic.

Enclosure: Adult female Kenyan sand boas can be adequately kept in 20-gallon aquariums while males can be kept in 10-gallon aquariums.

Temperature: Kenyan sand boas are extremely tolerant of large temperature extremes of 60° to 100° F. They are best kept however at temperatures of 80° to 85° F with a basking temperature of 90° to 95° F. Night temperatures can drop to as low as 75° to 77° F.

Heat/Light: There has been no evidence to suggest that photo periods affect the keeping of Kenyan sand boas. If a regular photo period is provided it is recommended to use fluorescent bulbs in order to minimize the extra heat generated by incandescent bulbs. When providing heat, do NOT use hot rocks. Red basking bulbs or ceramic emitters can be used to generate basking spots. Under the tank heating pads can also be used to help raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure. Substrate: Kenyan sand boas require three to five inches of substrate that allows them to burrow. Aspen or a sand/soil mix often works best to provide a suitable substrate for the boas to create their own burrows. If using a sand/soil mix a small amount of water added to the mix will help the formation of stable burrows.

Environment: Kenyan sand boas are a burrowing species and do not require any cage furniture to climb or hide boxes.

Diet: Kenyan sand boas do well on a diet of rodents. Hatchlings can feed on pinkie mice. Large adult females can feed on prey as large as small adult rats. Usually one appropriate sized prey item per week can be fed. During the winter months these sand boas will often stop feeding with no ill effects.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be offered daily. The enclosure should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected.

hope this helps and good luck with ur new snake

Answer 2

I'd definitely recommend a corn snake!!!
(1) They are widely available!
(2) They are not an endangered species!
(3) They are naturally very docile & don't mind being handled!
(4) They are very hardy & probably the easiest to keep happy!
(5) They are very attractive, loads of different morphs!
(6) They will rarely grow bigger than 5ft Usually 3.5 - 4.5ft!
(7) They are usually very good feeders!
(8) Because they are popular, they don't cost a lot!

There are loads of other reasons why i'd recommend a Corn (Elaphe guttata) it's scientific name.
Have got mine in a 4ft long vivarium but they'd be happy enough in a 3ft long (no smaller).
Guide is for the length of the viv to be at least the length of the snake!
I always feed mine FT (frozen thawed lab mice) as it's far more humane, less gruesome & have seen so many badly injured snakes as a result of the prey item fighting back (understandably).

Royal (i'm English) Pythons or Ball's (same thing) are also excellent pets as is King snakes, all of which don't grow too big & are therefore always easily kept.
Only things to watch out for is...
If you get a Ball Python, make sure you see it being fed ie; readily accepting food. They can be difficult feeders.
If you get a King snake, make sure you keep it on it's own as the name suggests, it eats other snakes especially if the other snake is smaller?
All three of the above mentioned make excellent (BEGINNER) snakes.
Am sure i'll get other people questioning what i've written but i believe all the above to be true!
As for the idiots who say things like Black Mamba, haven't they honestly got anything better to do? LOL

Answer 3

Hello; a Rosy boa matches your description almost perfectly.

I have a male who is about a year old and 13 inches long. His maximum adult size will be about 1 1/2-2 1/2 feet. He is very gentle, fine being passed around from person to person, isn't shy, eats one small adult or large hopper mouse per week, is very clean, and is a wonderful beginner's snake.

I'll type up a care sheet for them, and hopefully that will help you figure out if this is a species that will work for you. :)

Temperament: Generally quite docile, most are fine with handling, and they rarely, if ever, bite people.

Size: Males average 1.5-2.5 feet, females are generally 2.5-3 feet, some a tad larger, but rarely more then 3.5 feet.

Feeding: start babies on mice pinks, and build up to one large mouse per week for adults. They are generally quite enthusiastic feeders; I have never had one that was a reluctant eater.

Humidity: This is a really low humidity desert species. A water dish is fine on the cool side of the tank, but misting is completely unnecessary for these guys.

Temperature: Mine have done best with high eighties, 87-89 on the hot side, with an ambient (background) temperature of 77-80.

Cage size: a 20 gallon long is ideal for a single adult, but a 10 gallon is adequate. Just make SURE the cage is very secure, as these guys are amazing escape artists.

Substrate: Mine have done best on eco-earth by zoo-med, as long as it is COMPLETELY dry before putting it in my snake's cage. Paper towels, coconut husks or mulch, aspen bedding, or even reptile sand (as long as you feed your snake in a separate container to prevent sand ingestion) also works very well.

Color: Rosy boas have a ton of different localities, and which every locality, a different color. They come in everything from a burgundy with a soft grey/green, to a light brown with chocolate brown stripes. This isn't counting some of the 'morphs', such as whitewater albino or ghost. In case you are curious, my current one is a San Felipe locality, and i've had a San Gabriel and a Whitewater albino.

Cost: Generally 50-120 dollars for 'regulars', 150 is average for albinos, and ghosts are generally in the 250-350 range.

If you are interested in purchasing one, or just looking at some snakes that are for sale, try kingsnake.com, click the classifieds section, then go to the rosy, sand, and rubber boas page. They also sell them at reptile shows and a lot of pet stores.

If you have any questions or would like more information on Rosy boas or another species, just let me know and I'd be glad to help. :)

Good luck on your snake search; I sincerely hope this helps!

Answer 4

Snakes that range around 2 ft. and make a good pet are limited. Sand boas as suggested is a good one. They are docile and hardy. Cornsnakes are always a good bet, but get to be anywhere from 3-5 ft. although they are relatively slender in size. They are also easy to care for, hardy and come in a variety of colors. Ball pythons while mostly docile, are, I think, difficult beginner snakes due to their finicky eating habits. They go off food frequently and for long periods. They also get much larger in the body than cornsnakes, kings or milksnakes.

Answer 5

A garter snake or a Hognose snake. Here is a care sheet on a garter snake (there are many different kinds): http://www.thamnophis.com/caresheets/index.php?title=Garter_Snake_Care_Sheet. Here is the care sheet for a hognose snake: http://www.hognose.com/pages/care/index.htm. Both snakes stay small (right around or under your requirements). Good luck.

Answer 6

A Kenyan Sand boa is a pretty hardy species. Stay pretty small also. Rarely exceeds 120 cm. Most species stay in the 60 cm range.

Answer 7

rosy tail boa here look at this
http://www.anapsid.org/rosyboa.html
their very docile and gentle, their good for a beginner
Good Luck ^_^

Answer 8

i dont know exactly how long they can grow, but milk snakes are good snakes for begginers....

Answer 9

Try a black mamba.