My rabbit,Cosmo,likes to eat cola bottle sweets and chocolate!Is this normal?

Question

We only give it to him occasionaly and not too much but i was just wondering if it was allright for him?

Answer 1

No way! Especially the chocolate -- it has lactose it in (if it is milk chocolate) and it could hurt Cosmo's stomach. My bunnies like sweets, too, but it's better to give them fruits and veggies as treats. (Once my rabbit Eve took root beer candies out of my purse and ate them!) Candy, bread, crackers, and chocolate are all off limits for rabbits, even though they like them. All of those things have either too much sugar, starch, fat, and/or sodium for a rabbit.

Answer 2

No don't give your rabbit sweets. The sugar and carbohydrates could cause your rabbit to get diarrhea just like giving your rabbit too many vegetables or grass or fruits can.

A dull diet of just rabbit pellets and water and maybe a little timothy hay is the best diet for a rabbit. But every new or inexperienced rabbit raiser thinks they need fruits, vegetables and stuff like that and that the rabbit's pellets don't have all of the nutrition the rabbit needs.

Adding all of that extra stuff in is just asking for problems. Those rabbit pellets are specifally designed to be nutritionally balanced. Some people also recommend free feeding hay. I believe that is also wrong because that can limit the amount of vitamins and minerals and other micro-nutrients that your rabbbit gets from the rabbit pellets. A small amount of hay can be good. Especially during the summer when the amount of energy that the rabbit needs is less. A small amount of hay in the summer can be good to help prevent diarrhea.

So do away with the sweets and snack. If you want a healthy rabbit, feet it a dull diet of just rabbit pellets and water and it will be happy and healthy. And you'll avoid giving your rabbit the runs.

Some people stop giving snacks to stop the diarrhea, then start giving them back to the rabbit in a limited fashion once the diarrhea gets better.

To me, that is not smart. Although your risk isn't as great, you are still increasing the risk of that rabbit getting diarrhea. And you are making it fatter (unhealthy) and probably causing it to shed more due to the higher energy diet you are feeding it. Especially try avoiding snacks during the summer. Rabbits require less energy during the summer due to the heat. Snacks are high energy and high energy causes fat, diarrhea, and molting. In the winter a rabbit needs more energy to help keep it warm if kept outside. So if your rabbit is kept outside you have a slightly less risk of giving your rabbit diarrhea in the winter if you give it snacks.

Another thing to keep in mind is that certain foods can be toxic to rabbits. Chocolate is definitely one food that should not be on the menu.

Answer 3

Cola Bottles Sweets

Answer 4

No. They should stick to a diet with a staple of pellets or blocks, in addition to fresh fruit and veggies. There is no reason for mammals to have sugary things, especially chocolate, which can be fatal in some cases.

Answer 5

it is normal for them to like those sweet treats, but it is not normal for u to give them to him! i was on the poison control center phone for an hour and 25 dollars because my bunny ate chocolate.

Answer 6

no to sweets, it is unhealthy for bunnies. if you need to give the rabbit sweets then maybe give him a raisin or a piece of apple.

Answer 7

No, never give an animal chocolate it is toxic to their kidneys.

Answer 8

these will kill your rabbit

History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.). Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with fresh fruit and vegetables (green stuffs). Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins and salt licks are not generally required.

Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.

Housing
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--10 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6" off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.

Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.

Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).

Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household.

Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.

To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.

Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).

Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice.

My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's.

Showing
The Hobby of Breeding & Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.