They can eat different types of worms also. Live food makes up a big part of their diet when they're young although veg must be given too whereas when it is older their eatting habits is the exact opposite. Get a care guide and it will tell you all you need to know.
2007-11-10 06:47:56
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answer #1
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answered by tiffy-xo 3
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Separate your dragons and your problem will be solved. They are not meant to live together unless they are mating, which is way too early for a 4 month old dragon, they dont reach sexual maturity till around 1 year.
2016-04-03 05:58:49
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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The crickets aren't that bad! At first I didn't want to feed them live crickets and tried all these ways to get around it like freeze dried crickets. YUCK! they hated them. Mine eat their crickets and I provide a nice mix of greens in a feeding dish so they can snack as they want.
They also eat wax worms. When they are babies you should NEVER feed them mealworms because that can cause impaction. Sometimes I scramble up an egg for them and also give them some fruit. As they get bigger you can actually feed them pinkie mice.
2007-11-10 19:35:37
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answer #3
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answered by Chels 1
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Watch the video
2014-05-13 12:01:30
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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Yes, they must have insects as part of their diet. Baby dragons need almost 100% insects matter, and this will decrease to about 50% as they become adults. Vegies are also fed daily and the pellets they sell can be added to the salad. Pelleted diets are NOT complete and should not be used in place of insects.
Check these out:
http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/home.html
http://www.biology.lsa.umich.edu/research/labs/ktosney/file/BD.html
2007-11-10 11:26:31
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answer #5
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answered by KimbeeJ 7
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to an extent.
ok DO NOT feed him hot dogs or peoples food, these are bad for lizzards.
but nowadays they make bearded dragon pellets, which you can use instead of crikits, but you have to find a type that says complete meal. but id really suggest trying to get used to the crickets. id feed him vegetablesss too though not iceberg lettuce though, it gives them the runss
2007-11-10 07:23:37
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answer #6
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answered by Alec B 2
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you could feed them veggies cut in little pieces,crickets,mealworms,and depending on how big they are you could give them pinkies.i have 2 small baby ones and i give them pinkie's which you could get from petco,etc.
2007-11-10 22:19:49
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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crickets,king worms,golieth kingworms,mealworms,cal,and waxworms
2007-11-10 11:07:03
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answer #8
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answered by xXx-CrAzYsMuRf911-xXx 2
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hi there...
unfortunetly they can not live on just veggies..espesially not as babys,,,the main part of the babys diet is crickets...well its a 30:70 ratio...between meat/protine and veggies...if u dont want to have crickets in ur house then dont get a beardie mabey get a uro maxis...
here is a care sheet for beardies from Reptiles R Us...
Bearded Dragons
Longevity: 7-10 years (Good captive conditions)
Size: Up to nearly two feet. most 18 inches..
Substrate: Aspen, Beta chips, lizard litter, alfalfa pellets,(Sand but may cause impaction and not good for babies and juveniles) for babies and juveniles use non particle substrate... paper towel, shelf paper, etc.
Landscaping: Bearded dragons climb. Basking and resting areas should be created with large rocks and or wood sections or log on a slant. Also, shelters should be provided out of the range of the basking lights.
Lighting: One spot light over each basking area. Also full-spectrum lighting is highly recommended. Recommend exposing bearded dragons to direct sunlight for at least 30 min., 3 times a week.
Heating: Daytime Temperature should be 80-90degrees F with at least one basking area reaching 90-105 degrees F .Night time temps 65-75F even though desert nights are20-30 F. Don't recommend you keep the temperatures this low every night . Use thermometers, DON'T guess! ... please use heat lamps and heat pads.. heat rocks will seriously burn your reptiles.. some pet stores won't tell you that.
Food sources: Crickets, meal worms(in small quantities), king meal worms (super worms), Wax worms horned worms silk worms even washed earth worms the odd time and (Bearded dragons should be fed a variety of greens, vegetables, and fruits daily. Greens include: kale, cilantro, mustard greens, collard greens, dandelion greens, endive, escarole, Swiss chard, carrot greens, romane (no iceberg) and a little broccoli . Veggies include: potato, sweet potato, carrots, butternut squash, and yellow squash. Fruits include: strawberries, blueberries, oranges (just a little), mango, papaya, kiwi, pears and etc.... Bearded dragons love raspberries, but they should be only given as treats.... Vitamin/mineral supplement: 1 part multi vitamin to 2-5 parts calcium powder(Rep-Cal phosphorous free). Water: Fresh clean water should be offered three times a week in a shallow dish.
Behaviors....Beard display: Defensive behavior (primarily by males and more readily during breeding season. Arm waving: Young, often when larger dragons are in sight and during basking, older females, during breeding when males get aggressive, behavior not common in older males. Head Bobbing: Aggressive action in males, drastic (usually rapid) up and down head movement. Bowing: Up in down motion by females, slow push ups, submissive behavior. Gaping: When basking or in direct sunlight, dragons may gape to cool down.
Breeding.......Bearded dragons mature quickly and can reach adulthood within 1-2 years. Although possibly sexually mature, younger dragons should not be bred because they are not physically ready for the task. In preparation for the breeding season, The male's courtship consists of head bobbing and usually their "beard" becomes darker in color. He will pursue the female until she allows him to mount her. Often, the male will bite or nibble the female, but this is normal and usually isn't a sign of aggression. Once the male has mounted the female, tails wrapped around each other's. Over the next month, the female will gain much weight and towards the end of her gestation, eggs will be pushing out the skin in her belly, thus easily visible to us. Put a 10-12 inch deep tupperware container in the enclosure with 50% sand to 50% peat 2/3 full cut a 5-6 inch hole through the lid so she can have her privacy. Usually 4-6 weeks after copulation, the female will lay her eggs, referred to as oviposition. When she is ready, the female will dig a nest of 12 inches or deeper and deposit her eggs. The average clutch of eggs contains anywhere from 10-30 eggs
here is a care sheet for uro maxis from Reptiles R Us!...
Uromastyx
Common Name:Uromastyx, Spiny Tail Lizard
Latin name: Uromastyx spp.
Native to: Northern Africa to the Middle East, depending upon specific species of Uromastyx.
Size: From 14 inches to 30 inches depending upon specific species of spiny tail lizard.
Life span: 35 years up to 50 years..in captivity providing the health.
General appearance: All Uromastyx have a stocky build and a well-armored tail which gives it its common name. All species of Uromastyx also have salt glands around their nostrils and it is not uncommon to see salt crystals build up around the nostril.
Enclosure: Aquariums, stock tanks and custom built cages can all be used. As a general rule the cage should be four times larger than the lizard.
Temperature & Heat/Light: This is a desert animal and can tolerate relatively large temperature fluctuations from day to night. If breeding simulating a "winter" with temperature lows of 55° F can be helpful. Daytime: cool side 85° - 95° F hot side ( Basking area) 110° - 130° F Nighttime: 60° - 70° F.. They also require a relatively high degree of UVB light. Use of such bulbs as the Zoo Med Repti-Sun 5.0 Under no circumstance should a hot rock be used with any reptile it it to dangerous will cause burns and even death...
Substrate: A variety of substrates can be used for all Uromastyx. Newspaper can make an easy to clean, though not attractive substrate. Sand can be used as a substrate.
Environment: Uromastyx are terrestrial burrowing animals and do not require any branches for climbing. They do require a hiding area that they can feel something rubbing against their backs to feel comfortable. This can easily be accomplished by using rocks and a piece of slate. The slate can also provide and excellent basking spot
Environment: Uromastyx are terrestrial burrowing animals and do not require any branches for climbing. They do require a hiding area that they can feel something rubbing against their backs to feel comfortable. This can easily be accomplished by using rocks and a piece of slate. The slate can also provide and excellent basking spot
Diet: Uromastyx are omnivorous lizards though a majority of their diet consists of vegetables and dark leafy greens with the occasional insects. Vegetables such as carrots, beans, peas, corn, and many varieties of dark greens Collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, and dandelion greens should be staple. Fruits can be offered occasionally as well. Some bird seed can also be added to the vegetable mix as well. Some people have even added commercially available finch pellets to supplement the diet. Crickets, meal worms, super worms or wax worms should be offered occasionally. Because this is a desert dweller, water does not need to be offered as they will get all of their moisture they need from their diet. Supplementation:Uromastyx should be given both vitamin and calcium supplementation.
hope this helps...
2007-11-10 16:39:56
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answer #9
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answered by reptiles r us 1 3
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yes,they can eat veggie things such as buckles u can get them from walmart and also they eat meat for example fish,cow,hotdog.they can eat brooklet's and apples u just have to make them eat it then it gets the habit of eating these kinds of food.
2007-11-10 06:50:06
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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