Polls and Surveys are my only internet pals but I have a question that belongs in another category and would?

Question

rather have the advice of my friends. I am working on a project. I am painting a couple of old night stands a dresser and a desk for my room. The night stands are laminate but very sturdy. I want them to have a distressed look about them (which they pretty much do, but would rather them look antique instead of being in a house with a clutz and two teenage kids. I know there is some paint you can paint them with and it kind of crackles to let the paint from the underside show so you use two different colors but my question is what do I prime them with? Would that Kilz stuff work or is there something else I should use? I know I could count on you all. All answers dont have to be serious but some would be appreciated. XXXOOO

Answer 1

Serious? Here goes: I SERIOUSLY wouldn't paint on a laminated surface! (Any chance you're mistaken in your use of the word "laminated"? Hopefully?) Several years ago (before I knew better) I tried painting a laminated shoe chest (also, a nice sturdy one) and just about ruined it. What a mess! (Never again.... believe it!) All that work..... and when the paint dried - it peeled off in patches.... (kind of like skin after a bad sunburn). So, I ended up, painstakingly, peeling it all off... just so the chest could still be used. Disappointing, isn't it? OK, I do have some good news... (You could probably use some right now... huh?) If it turns out the surface your working with isn't laminated.... Crackle works really well, looks great.... and, best of all, isn't too very difficult to do! (I did a shelfy thing a while back, and loved the results.) If you need to prime, Kilz is fine. Let it dry, and paint your "undercoat". (I used a deep blue, but you can use any color that contrasts enough to show once your top coat cracks.) Next, comes a coat of Crackle. (Goes on easy.) Let that dry, and paint on the topcoat. (For my topcoat, I used a cream color.) Now, at first (while it's wet), this topcoat will look like a solid color, making you wonder if you did something incorrectly. Don't worry, though. As it begins to dry, it will "crack" strategically, and the undercoat will show through. The painting itself is simple enough. The "between coats" drying time takes a little patience, but it's not too bad (Most of the new latexes dry quickly.)... and it is worth it.

Answer 2

Hon, if you're talking about a laminate that's plastic based, the adhesion is gonna be awful unless you go with an oil base ( KILZ DOES make an oil),
When you use any latex base it won't bond well to the sort of surface I suspect you're dealing with. By using only latexes, one could use a fingernail and pry up one small bit and use that to peel nearly every last bit of paint off the items.
If you DO use an oil base primer, you're gonna want that furniture outside for a few days to cure the fumes from it. Consider our weather and such.
Truthfully, I think you're gonna be hassling with these too much to make the effort worthwhile (read: durable).

Answer 3

I suggest going to Home Depot and getting some Behr primer. Sand the laminate with a fine grit sandpaper to remove the shine...(the primer and paint coats will hide the scuff marks). Let the primer dry AT LEAST 24 hours before using your base coat.

Answer 4

I did that once to an old dining room buffet. It was about 18 yrs ago and I don't have it any more. But it seems to me, everything I needed for the project was in a kit. Good luck in your endeavor! Try a True Value Hardware Store.

Answer 5

I know there are paints that will do everything but scratch your back. Check with your hardware store. I don't do furniture refinishing much, but good luck. I am sure they will turn out fine.

Answer 6

u prime them with paint??? thats a really long question. and ur avatar is bugging me. and im tired.

Answer 7

ask at the paint store, they would know...