When do I use a pH up or pH down solution? How can I save the last two fish?

Question

my nephew poured almost all of my algae disks and fish flakes in the tank, and by the time I came home and noticed it was dirty and cloudy. I changed the water, but three of the fish died. I have two left and one does not look well (pale and flaking). I changed the water again, but it is bubbling and I am not sure what to do or add. The tank was my mothers and now I am caring for it but I do not know what to do in this situation. I was ok and the fish were great but now I am confused and do not want them to die...

they are fresh water. I changed the water 25% first and then 50 the next day. The water is foaming. My nephew poured almost all of my algae disks and flakes the tank I cleaned the out as much as possible the first time yesterday around 4pm and more the second time, this morning around 8am. The water is cloudy. I changed the filters and rinsed everything each time.I have a bucket of water I am letting reach room temp, but I am not sure if I should do another water change or if I should take them out? And put them in that and if I take them out can I use just tap water and what else should I do? This was my mothers tank and she left it to me. Everything was fine before I did the usual 25 percent h2o changes, but this just messed up the tank. And I am not sure what to do.

Answer 1

Your problem should have nothing to do with the pH. In fact, if it's been used, the fluctuating of the ph may have stressed the fish even further.

The addition of so much food at one time most likely fouled your water and caused an increase in ammonia and/or nitrite in the tank. It also probably caused the filter to clog, so that the water wasn't able to flow through as quickly (if at all) and that affects the amount of dissolved oxygen in your tank.

I don't know how much water you changed, or if any food was left in the filter media or that may have accumulated in the gravel, but removing any of this would be your first priority - if any is left, or the ammonia/nitrite in the water is still high, another partial water change (of up to 50%) wouldn't be out of order.

The "bubbling" may be gasses being released from the new water, especially if the bubbles are on the glass and ornaments. Gasses are often dissolved in the water in the pipes, but as the water warms in your tank, the water can't hold the same quantity of gasses, and these will collect and attach to surfaces inside the tank. If on your gravel, you may have algae making use of the new food supply and the tank lighting to do a little photosynthesis and the bubbles you see are oxygen that's being produced (in this event, you should have noticeable green or brown areas [the algae] on the gravel).

Back to your pH chemicals. It's not necessary to make the pH a perfect "7". Most fish live quite well in a range from 6 to 8.5. Even if it's a little outside this range, fish can adapt to it if acclimated slowly, and a consistent pH, even if slightly outside their ideal, is preferable to fluctuating pH. And every time you do a water change, the ph will fluctuate if you use the chemicals. These really aren't a good idea. If your pH is extremely outside the range, you might want to check the objects in your tank (if the tank water is of a different pH than the water you're putting in). Driftwood will lower the pH, and shells or carbonate material (limestone, coral) will raise it. You can identify carbonates by putting a few drops of vinegar on a rock or piece of gravel (outside the tank of course!). If it bubbles or fizzes, it will increase your pH. If you feel you need to raise or lower the pH in the tank, these same items can be used to do it. They give a more stable water chemistry, and will cost less than constantly adding chemicals.


ADDITION: The foam is probably from too much organic matter still dissolved in the tank water. This creates a "film" and coats the air bubbles as your filter returns water to the tank, then the bubbles aren't able to pop as easily (and "foam" accumulates at the top).

Some water conditioners do this as well if you use one (but it sounds as though you don't if you're leaving the water out). If you do have a water conditioner, you can run tapwater (both hot and cold) to get the water within a few degrees of what's in the tank, and do water changes sooner. Moving your fish to new water may be too much of a change, so I would only do a 50% change in the tank their in, and add the replacement water slowly.

Answer 2

How much of the water did you change? all of it?

I don't understand when you say the water is bubbling? like boiling? or foaming up?

pH up and down should rarely be used and then only in amounts that change the pH by .20 or less per day. And it's better to increase the buffering capacity of your tank, rather than mess with the pH.

I need more information - what size is your tank, what is the temperature, what are your readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. What kind of fish do you have left?

How often and how much water do you change? Do you use a water conditioner?

Unless you have a very very small tank, I can't imagine that dumping all that food in the water killed your fish.

Here are the steps that you should have taken.

1. Using a siphon, vacuum all of the excess food that you can, off the bottom of the tank, removing no more than 50% of the water.

2. Add back fresh tap water that has been conditioned with a product that removes chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals, and is close to the same temperature as the remaining tank water.

3. Remove the filter and clean out all the excess food from it, but don't change the media, just rinse it off with dechlorinated water. You don't want to upset the Nitrogen cycle too much.

4. Check your water parameters - the pH etc. and then do another 50% water change the next day.

Changing 100% of the water is only recommended in the case of emergencies - like if your nephew dumped soap or other cleaning solution in your tank. Which I think is most likely the scenario.

If this is the case - set up a temporary tank immediately. Get those last two fish out of that water an into a clean (but not cleaned with soap) vessel. Try to match the temperature of the original tank.

Then get a new tank set up and start over. I wouldn't use anything from the old tank, not the heater, not the filter, not a piece of gravel.

Best of luck.

Answer 3

Do you have a kit for testing the PH??? What kind of tank is it.....I have a fresh water trop tank and goldfish tank....I don't know anything bout saltwater......but you will stress the fish if you change too much of the water...try scooping out as much of the debris with your net.....make sure you use the water conditioner and use the PH down in each change of water. I find that a 10 litre bucket takes about a 1/4 teaspoon of PH down. Try by changing the water slowly.....about 20 litres every 2 hrs so you don't stress the fish too much. The PH level should be about 6.8 on the chart which is a greeny blue colour. Good luck

Try taking out all the ornaments , plants and rocks , including gravel......when this is done turn the filter off and wait for the gunk to settle....don't worrythe fish survive with the filter turned off for a while....besides it shouldn't take long to settle once the water stops moving. Then suck the gunk up. Keep adding fresh water.

Answer 4

i am guessing they are freshwater... Take them out as soon as possible and put them in a large enough container..Rinse the container but don't use soap. Use the pump with the airstone and put it in the container. The container should be filled with drinking water- add half tea spoon of amquel. This will hopefully help. ..

Make sure you put in the airstone (BUBBLES)..




A for the tank try to take out the flakes by hand and run your filter all night and day...


if your fish survive put them back tomorrow.


GOOD luck..