1.) For fruit production: cut back on your N (nitrogen) and bump up your P (phosphorous)
2.) To get my 85 roses to push in the spring, I feed my greedy roses a fertilizer high in Nitrogen, but equally, if not higher in Phosphorous (P). I mainly use organic products like Rose Tone, North County Organic's products, etc. If you're in the Northern half of the country I would advise against encouraging any flower production at this time. Stop deadheading (this encourages more flower production) and cut off fertilizing (besides a slow release fertilizer with P or K in it). Good luck!
Remember :(N)itrogen (leaves)
(P)hosphorous (flowers)
(P)otassium, (roots)
http://groups.myspace.com/HARDCOREHORTICULTURE
2007-10-29 09:07:11
·
answer #1
·
answered by Acey 2
·
0⤊
0⤋
Specific trees require specific fertilizers. For example, there is a special blend that works best with citrus and avocado trees that won't work as well on other fruit trees, like apples or peaches. See a home improvement store or nursery.
For roses, use a systemic rose food. This contains fertilizers and bug poison. If you get aphids or something eating the plant, it will be poisonous to them and they will die. Use neem oil (organic product) to control white powdery mildew, fungus, and leaf rust.
You also have to prune the rose bushes correctly. In winter (around December or January), cut the rose bushes down to about 1-foot canes. Thin out branches that grow in toward the bush. Remove any branches that are growing out of the root ball (coming up through the dirt) instead of branching off of the main trunk.
When the new branches appear in the next few weeks after pruning (not until spring in cold climates), thin them out to one or two new branches per cane, with the branches growing out away from the bush. When a branch flowers, it will probably set out multiple buds. Pinch off the extra buds so that you have one bud per stem if you want large, showy flowers. Or let them grow in clumps if you prefer that.
When the flower dies, prune the stem back down to just above a leaf with at least 5 leaflets on it (they appear with 3, 5, or 7 leaflets). Cutting at a leaf with 7 leaflets is better. But, not all branches develop 7-leaflet leaves. Use this pruning method until next winter's cutting down of the bushes to get the biggest, healthiest roses.
If you let a rose bush just go wild, it will get huge. But, expect small, mis-shapen, and miscolored flowers.
2007-10-29 16:02:07
·
answer #2
·
answered by Paul in San Diego 7
·
0⤊
0⤋
I know nothing of fruit trees.
however, I have a few rose bushes and have done okay with them.
you first have to realize, depending on your climate that many rose bushes won't keep well in cold winters.
sometimes you can save them buy putting mulch around the root area and up toward the stem of the bush.
also, cut down anything dead for next spring.
for vertilizer, use any rose bush fertilizer, bone meal, coffee grounds are good. just alot of water, they grow great.
I have flouribundas and shrubs as well as climbers, I have done pretty well.
2007-10-29 16:55:06
·
answer #3
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
well rotted homemade compost, or manure, pig's or cow's are best, contain all the nutrients needed, spread around the base of the plants/ trees, do this every year in early Spring. March/April.
2007-10-29 15:54:00
·
answer #4
·
answered by The Master 3
·
0⤊
0⤋