Will extending my chimney on my hunter log burner help me with problems of poor lighting/ staying lit/ low output? The flue is installed straight up through a flat roof using lined sections, has one of those draught improver cowls and is about 2M above the roof giving an overall length of 3.5-4M. It works better in the wind, there is good ventilation in the room (upwind side). You seem to need to use wood that is rediculously dry to light it/keep it going (even slightly damp newspaper wont burn). It has always been a problem from new and my other burner is EASY, so it isn't me - this one is in an area with a loft above it though so flue is much longer and indoors for about 6M beforehand! There is no apparent problem with downdraught, it just wont BURN lol. Please help me it is getting cold now! You even have to race to light the newspaper in 3 places and close the door before they start going out!!
2007-10-25 05:10:09 · 5 answers · asked by kevsticle 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
I have a hunter, herald 6, works superbly. Although it is a multifuel, I mostly burn wood,so I've taken the grate out, and leave a bed of ash in the bottom. I can burn 9-10" diameter logs, (seasoned!) which easily stay in overnight when needed. When you light this stove of yours (assuming you use a few pages of dry lightly crumpled newspaper, in front of newspaper tightly twisted, which is how I light mine, (with lumps of 4 x 2 on top of that) and have the bottom vents fully open and close the doors it should draw fiercely, and I mean,... fiercely. So, if it doesn't do that, then as you've probably figured, I'd say it has a draught/draw problem. I assume the internal diameter of the flue is the correct size, and the correct type, to suit the stove? (I don't have a chimney liner, just the existing brick chimney flue, at a guess around 13" square) I wouldn't have thought the flue length you mentioned should be a problem but I do tend to think it sounds restricted somewhere. I'm sure you're familiar with your other stove and presumably with that one the quicker you get the stove hot the better the draw. Do you have a damper in the flue? it's just possible if that's come loose on it's spindle, although you turn the spindle externally, the damper plate is slipping on spindle and not actually moving inside the flue?
2007-10-25 10:50:17 · answer #1 · answered by Dick s 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Your flue will definitely be improvrd by increasing the vertical height, but is the terminal position in a neutral or negative pressure zone? Have you got any tall trees which may cause downdraught? check out the solid fuel advisory, and HETAS web sites for guidance. Also make sure that the flue pipe joints are not allowing air to enter the flue. Is the flue pipe specifically made for solid fuel ? It`s not a twin wall gas flue is it? These are not suitable for solid fuel.
2007-10-25 07:43:31 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
If it is a closed stove type of burner should be OK but open log fires produce a lot of noxious chemicals. We have had to stop visiting a local pub in the winter because they have an open log fire. I suffer with my chest and it makes me sick for days. Watch out you are not in a 'smokeless' zone too.
2016-04-10 04:34:50 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
bit of a tricky one in that if you have enough heat then the flue will work and oxygen will flow into the fire and smoke out the top of your house.
As there is a pretty large amount of static air in the flue it's going to be difficult to get air flow. This is similar to having a 5m snorkel, great in theory but your lungs don't have the oomph to make it effective.
I guess you have to build the fire up small and let it build its heat up.
2007-10-25 05:22:18 · answer #4 · answered by Icarus 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The flue is too short especially if there are higher parts of the building or trees nearby.
2007-10-25 18:23:35 · answer #5 · answered by brainstorm 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋