ok, i have a 97 nissan pathfinder, i just changed the brake caliper on the front passangers side but when i press the brakes it feels spongy and drops to the floor and you have to press on it for about 5 seconds for the car to fully stop at like 2 mph, i checked all wheels and theres no brake fluid leak, i checked the master cylinder, and theres no leaks anywhere around it, so i figured there must be air int he brakes, so i did the old one person pumps the brakes while i loosen the cable so the air can escape, i did that and the brakes still feel spongy and sink to the floor? what should i do, is there maybe still air in my brakes or what?
PS before i put on the new cylinder, my car was without a cyilinder for 3 months and the cable wasnt connected to anything so im figuring so much air has gotten in the brake system that ill need a professional to get it all out?
2007-10-12 09:35:29 · 10 answers · asked by some guy 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
You can bleed your brakes alone, but it's faster with a helper.
First, fill up your brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder.
Then slowly pump the brake pedal several times to compress any air in the lines. Check the fluid level again and refill if necessary.
At the farthest wheel, open the bleeder valve, fit a clear vinyl tube over the valve and stick the other end into a clean, empty glass jar.
With the gravity method, the fluid will drain out of the bleeder valve very slowly (you can open it up about 1 full turn to increase fluid flow.) Let the fluid drain out, at least 1/2 cup worth of used brake oil from each wheel cylinder. Drain it out until you get clean fluid - no particles or discoloration. It might take 5-10 minutes per wheel. Close the valve and remove the vinyl tube and glass jar.
Check the master cylinder fluid level after every bleeding each wheel cylinder - don't let the master cyl fluid level get below about 1/2 full. Pump the brake pedal smoothly but slowly a few times to compress the air, and check the fluid level again.
Repeat the procedure on the other rear wheel.
Then repeat on the front axle, farthest wheel from the master cylinder, then finally the wheel closest to your master cylinder.
Check the master cyl fluid level a final time, re-install the cap and test your brakes.
One final thing: you said your car was "without a cylinder for 3 months." If it was missing the master cylinder, you might need to bleed the MC independently on a workbench first before you do the 4 wheel cylinder bleeding procedure. Do a search for "bench bleeding" "master cylinder", or get an instruction brochure from your auto parts store. It's not hard to to, but you may need to fabricate some special fluid return tubes. After you bench bleed the MC, re-install on your truck and perform the 4 wheel fluid bleeding.
Good luck.
2007-10-12 10:03:51 · answer #1 · answered by Tom-SJ 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
In order to properly bleed the brakes you start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Right rear in the states. Do each wheel until no air comes out. Ending up with the left front. Also be sure your master cylinder stays full while doing this or else you'll have to start over.
2007-10-12 09:39:31 · answer #2 · answered by iwingameover 5 · 2⤊ 0⤋
I would bleed all 4 wheels since you said there is a lot of air in the system, start bleeding the right rear first then the left rear and then the right front and finally the drivers side front, you might have to go through the routine a couple of times to get your brakes back.
2007-10-12 12:34:50 · answer #3 · answered by mister ss 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Brakes need to be bleed to remove all the air in the line. You can do this yourself. Just takes patience and a little time.
With one person you either need to get a one man bleeder kit, use a pump, or use a gravity bleed method or pressure bleeder.
Otherwise you'll need to have a second person pump the brakes and "hold" as you release the bleeder valve to extract the air.
Can't do what you're doing with only one person.
My wife learned very quickly bleeding brakes is not a pleasant thing. Especially since she was always the one doing the pump-pump-pump and hold.
Personally I recommend this product to bleed brakes by yourself (my wife is much happier since I bought it):
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
2007-10-12 09:38:41 · answer #4 · answered by hsueh010 7 · 2⤊ 0⤋
Three suggestions:
Keep bleeding the brakes. Sometimes it takes a while.
When you changed your caliper and I assume the pads, the rotor should have been changed. Also you should have changed the oppposite caliper/rotor too as now you have an uneaven pressure.
Or
Your master brake cylinder is ready for a rebuild or a new one. the O-rings inside are no longer making a good seal.
All cheap fixes. good luck.
2007-10-12 10:06:02 · answer #5 · answered by jimmiv 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
There's still air in the lines. Just continue to do the air removal procedure with the other person until all the air is out. Then once you are finished get in and pump the brakes until they firm up. Hopefully there is nothing wrong with the brake lines.
2007-10-12 09:39:31 · answer #6 · answered by chad f 3 · 2⤊ 0⤋
Take your car to Midas, or somewhere that they do a free brake inspection. Ask to look at the car, with the mechanic while its on the vehicle lift. Take the free quote on parts, and labor home. Call - NAPA - auto parts so you get the best parts ( since your saving money on installation. ) Have rotors-drums turned, or replaced. It's that easy. Don't forget the jack stands, and someone else to help just in case you get hurt working on your car. Allthough if you don't know what your doing while working on your brakes it could cause you to get into a serious accident. And it might require buying specialty tools that will cost more than having a mechanic fix it for you.
2007-10-12 10:34:21 · answer #7 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋
if you change the caliber you have to open your line all the way up and pump them up. you have to open the line all the way and get them to pump tell the fluid starts squirting. you indeed have a lot of air in the line. you have to let that caliber fill up completely. if it continues to do this then it is the brake power booster. also if you have drums in the back you have to adjust them to a tight fit by spooning them to the point the drum will be difficult to pull off. i have had the same problem i justed opened all my lines to the point the fluid squirts freely. make sure you do one at a time. once all the lines squirt freely then bleed them again.
2007-10-12 09:43:58 · answer #8 · answered by mccormick 4 · 0⤊ 1⤋
check to make sure your master cylinder proportioning valve and metering block are all good
2007-10-12 12:02:29 · answer #9 · answered by michael G 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
From my experience, you need to take your car to a shop and have the brake's professionally bled. It's too difficult to bleed brakes properly for a do it your self mechanic.
2007-10-12 09:42:52 · answer #10 · answered by bobweb 7 · 0⤊ 4⤋