2 questions for new motorcycle rider?

Question

I have a 600cc Katana. I have only riden for the summer, but I would like to continue to ride in the winter.

My first question... what is the best leg gear to wear in cold weather? Are chaps appropriate for a sports bike? Are there alternatives (because I work in an office environment that requires kakis)?

Second question. Sometimes when I down shift while applying my back brakes, I believe that my back tire skids for a split second. Is this normal?

Answer 1

First one- get some waterproof overpants, preferably with insulation, that your khakis will fit under. They are a bit "puffy" at best, but when it's in the low 30's you won't care. Besides, your jacket needs insulation, your neck needs protection, and your gloves need to be thick, so at least you'll match. My cut-off is about 20 degrees. At that point, nothing I have can keep me from being in pain by the time I arrive, and that just sucks!

For the second one, stop using your rear brake so much until you learn to blip the throttle on downshifts. Most good riders use very little back brake (if at all) and let the front brake and downshift slow them properly. If you hammer a downshift with the rear brake on in a corner (newbs still ride like it's a car, but you must brake BEFORE the corner on a bike), you'll run a good chance of highsiding yourself across the road.

Racers set up their rear brakes so that it's IMPOSSIBLE to lock the rear wheel. Whatever it takes- wax on the disc, grooved brake pads, lever adjustment- the rear brake isn't that effective anyway. The only place I use it is riding 2-up when I have extra weight on the rear of the bike and need a little extra braking, or during panic stops when my butt goes all the way off the back and both brakes are mashed within a hair from locking up.

Work on SMOOOOOOTH downshifts and using your front brake most of the time. Don't just let the clutch out fast, let it out slowly as if each downshift was like taking off from a light in 1st gear.

Answer 2

Leather, then a winter suit, I'd rather sweat than bleed !(2) Do not use rear brake on street, 90% of braking force is in the front, the bike won't turn while skidding, Most crashes can be avoided by just letting off that rear brake, then the bike will turn, If you run off the road and you are in the dirt then use the rear brake only, front will tuck under in the dirt, take a MSF class, and also learn the lock up point of front brake @ 5mph in a parking lot!

Answer 3

I wear the same gear winter and summer. Los Angeles. Great for motorcycles. I take off my gear when I get to the office -- I keep a complete change of clothing at the office just in case.

Don't apply the brakes with your engine engaged. Pull the clutch lever, then hit the brakes.

Answer 4

OK first chaps are the best protection from wind and cold and are perfectly OK for a sports bike. second you are down shifting at to high of an RPM causing the motor to lock up your back tire this is very dangerous it can cause your bike to go into a UN controlled slide try letting the RPM's come down a bit more you should have better control also look into a softer compound tire for more grip my son-in law has same bike as you and is experiencing the same problem good luck be safe

Answer 5

1) 45 years, the first 9 in the dirt only. 2) Hundreds in the dirt, one on the street (my fault,) many close calls. 3) None. 4) Broken left tibia and fibula, torn muscles and nerve damage. 5) Motorcycle-only accidents are overwhelmingly the biker's fault. Sometimes road conditions, sometimes animals in the road. Motorcycle-cars accidents are usually the car's fault, maybe 65%.

Answer 6

Hello,

I rode for several winters. I always liked wearing a big set of one piece coveralls, like Carharts. I bought them large enough to wear something under it, like a heavy sweatshirt. This way my clothes stayed nice for work, and I stayed reasonably warm. Hey, if it snows, park the bike!

A little chirp out of the back wheel under those conditions is ok. You could try being a little softer on the clutch, or downshifting a little later.

Sounds like you are a new rider, please, be safe!

Answer 7

you are over using the rear brake like a lot of noobs do... learn to use more front brake. Should be using like 80% front and 20% rear

Answer 8

First of all you can buys all sorts of "Arctic gear" for cold weather riding. Secondly, your depressing the rear brake pedal too hard, let up on it.

Answer 9

a padded nylon suit is the warmest and you lock the back wheel because you are changing down at to high a speed

Answer 10

I ride all year around here in Colorado and would suggest the following for you:
1. Tires take much longer to heat up on cold dry (or damp) pavement so allow for a longer time period (up to twice as long) to get your rubber up to temp so you don't lose traction. Stay completely away from the hard throttle shenanigans or you will be sadly surprised.
2. Ensure that your tread depth is more than adequate and has reasonable siping if your going to be in the rain. If you're near the wear indicators....couple thousands... consider replacing if you are really going to ride frequently for fall and winter.
3. Check your tire pressure FREQUENTLY: as the temp dips so will your tire pressure. Below 50 F I check daily as aluminum will shrink more and lead to higher pressure losses sooner in your tires.
4. 10W40 is most likely the oil you use....but give it a little longer warm up....time to get the oil from 10W to 40W and water temp up. My Zuki SV650 takes almost 15 minutes to temp at 40 F @ 2k RPM. Really cold weather may require 10W30 to crank the engine but I haven't been there yet.
5. I use gear that is both water proof AND breathable including pants, jacket, boots and gloves. Your first encounter with a semi and an inch of standing water will leave you stunned, miserable and cold for the rest of your ride if you're not protected correctly. Many brands out there and they are great, specifically when you have the zip out layers/liners inside. I use Alpinestars drystar gear....but that's what fits me and what I have been happy with so I use them. You make your own choice based on your preferences and personal size and fit.
6. Remember, when you are riding in reduced temps, wind chill has a pronounced effect. If its 38 out and your doing 65...well you get the idea....unprotected or underprotected skin and body (neck, chin, face) will be very cold very quickly and you will be miserable. A balaclava as well as coatings to the inside of your mask (liquid or films that you apply) can be a godsend so you don't fog when you slow or stop. Your fingers are the biggest thing to worry about. A good waterproof/breathable cycle glove with a generous layer of thinsulate will go a long way to protecting your hands while still maintaining the use of your hands. Layer layer layer. Fleece is great to trap air next to your skin without getting water logged from perspiration etc. Thinsulate lined, non-zipper boots that have a water proof membrane in them as well as some insulation (or wool socks) will do great. Tell you the truth....leather chaps have NEVER kept me warm in winter...usually have cold, tingly skin in about 3 to 4 miles at highway speeds and they won't keep you dry....wet and cold don't mix on a bike.
7. I will ride down to 32-35 F but no lower at night. Water that has melted during the day is now frozen and you have NO chance of seeing it. I will ride subfreezing during the day though without much of a problem and have ridden down to a crispy -18 F standing air temp on a clear sunny day with no impending weather (which you should check frequently BTW). At 65 mph that is not pleasant but its do-able with the correct gear( better than a cup of coffee!!! I'm awake) and based on the duration of the ride requires a supplemental electrically heat vest, gloves and chaps.
8. Your battery will produce much less cranking amps at lower temps so keep it on the charger at night inside and if its "iffy" (4th season or so) you might want to think of replacing it just so you don't get stranded. I keep mine on the trickle charger every night when temps dip below 50 F or so. When the temp dips into low 20's and teens or lower the battery gets a "coat" to help protect it from freezing.
9. The roads are going to have more sand, gravel and particulate thanks to the road crews dumping it for traction. Small pebble like particulate is NOT good for your contact patch so realize that around corners, center and far center left and far center right ride grooves will contain more of these particulate matter which can cause you to lose traction in a hurry. Intersections are incredible notorious collection areas for the sand, pea gravel and salt so really pay attention there....turning, slowing, stopping etc. Give yourself more time to slow, test the surface and do everything GRADUALLY including acceleration. Water kicked up will FREEZE on your rotors giving you a nasty surprise so gently ease into them and immediately, after coming out of water, ever so gently ride them with light pressure to heat up the rotors and dry them out=NO ICE. You will feel them begin to grab as the water evaps off. Increase your vigilence and you will be A OK. No hard core passes, high speeds, racing etc and you will live to see summer and have an awesome fall/winter experience and be a true wicked hardcore rider.
I really and sincerely hope that you do as a great learning experience. Welcome to the hardcore club of the wicked year 'round.

Throttle use is getting better but you need to better match your gear choice with cycle speed and engine rpm when downshifting. Try clutch, downshift then blip the throttle and then let out your clutch right at the tail end of the blip..... until you get smoother with it.... somewhere off a main road not in traffic. Pay attention to your speed and rpm. Sometimes people clutch, throttle then gear and it allows the r's to drop to an unsafe level causing rear wheel lockup in a momentay sense like your are experiencing. Practice being smooth and slow....fast and smooth will come to you. Best