I need to replace galvanized water pipes in my older mobile (manufactured) home. HELP! water is rusty?

Question

I am needing to start at the point of where the water comes into the home, "tees" to the bathrooms and kitchen areas. I want to replace with something other than galvanized metal pipe, possibly CPVC pipes and Shark Bite fittings. am I over my head or is there a simple solution for a DIYer

Answer 1

Some people will answer with pex some with CPVC, I prefer CPVC, but then that's why they make Fords and Chevy's....

No you're not over your head, but it will take longer than a weekend to do this right.

Sharkbite fittings are great solutions but they maynot be the answer to you're circumstance. Remember, that CPVC is connected with glue (oaty makes a one-step I still prefer using primer before the glue, once again that's just me). It's easy to figure out how much pipeing you need, just measuer what you got and remember that in the box stores most CPVC sticks are 10 feet long.

The best way to get rid of the old galvy is to cut it with a sawsall, as it makes short work of it and the pipe is probably so rusted you'll not want to try to undo it with a pipe wrence but, if you do expect it to break.

Once you got the galvy out of the way, the rest is easy, cut and glue...

DK

Answer 2

You can do this....if you dont have any problem crawling around under your home, hehehe (Ive done it for years, but still find it amusing to meet people afraid to go under a home)

I would recommend cpvc pipe and fittings, and go ahead and glue them. Use brass frost free valves for outside taps.

There is a pipe cutter for cpvc... it looks like a large pair of pliers... usually runs about $15... well worth it for the cpvc pipes.

Run all your pipe and fittings before removing the old stuff, if possible.

I like to pressure test a system Ive worked on before running water thru it... I made an adapter that screws onto the main, that allows me to connect my air compressor to it. I pressure test my systems at 80 lbs. Just connect the compressor, turn it on... and go around listening for the hiss of escaping air... no water spraying everywhere to clean up that way.. heheh... and most public supply, and well systems only run between 30 and 60 psi... so if it holds at 80... I know it will hold for good.

It would also be a good idea (if you live where it freezes during winter) to add a heat tape to any exposed pipe, such as the main supply, where it drops from the insulation to your hook up.

By the way... I see someone mentioned using crimping tools and rings.... you don't need these with cpvc... and I would say stay away from the Pex tubing, which does use them... it costs more to maintain a pex system in the long run, than cpvc

Good Luck

Answer 3

MOST DEFINITELY!! Your old galvanized pipes are clogged. I guarantee it!! All old galvanized pipes become clogged to some extent and will definitely lower your water pressure. PEX pipe is the easiest and fastest way to do this but you CAN use fittings that slide into the pipe and then are crimped on. They also have what we call Sharkbite fittings that just push on. You may think the Sharkbite wouldnt hold pressure because how easy they are to use but they are the best fittings on the market right now and I use them for everything from water leaks to total repipes like you are speaking of. If you are having your house done then you should also have the yard line repiped as this line is probably galvanized also. I'm guessing that your house is anywhere from 40 to 60 years old and its time!! Youre headed in the right direction. The fittings for the PEX are kinda high and the Sharkbites are even more but if you buy the crimp fittings then you have to buy the crimping tool for 1/2" and 3/4" pipe and they are 100 bucks a piece!!! I hope you are having this done by a licensed plumber because a regular ol handyman shouldn't be doing this work and it's illegal for him to do it anyway! Good luck and you will be pleased with the end result!!

Answer 4

Did you ever build model cars as a kid, or anything close to this? If so, you'll like CPVC. I'd go with the CPVC, and not use PVC, because CPVC will work on both Hot, and Cold water installations. CPVC, and PVC are physically different sizes, so you'd be doing a lot of juggling. Why hassle? CPVC costs just a tiny bit more than PVC, but it's worth it if you're under a house, or in a cramped space, and go.....Oh crap, that parts outside, in a box in the truck! (NO, I've NEVER done that,LOL!) You can use the rubber sleeves,(looks like a black rubber piece of thick tubing), to attach the galvanized pipe to the CPVC. Sometimes the collars with the brass/plastic ferrules won't work due to size differences.(it's an adapter,that looks like a tube with two twist on caps,on each end, to connect two pipe together, going from galvanized to CPVC,[or PVC], that has a plastic 'ferrule' for CPVC, and a brass ferrule for galvanized. I use the cleaner/primer, then glue. I wait 20 seconds applying pressure to keep the part's together, then go on to the next peice. I usually wait an hour or so before I turn the water on. (I've known guy's who've turned it on after 20 minutes) It really isn't that tough, just like putting a puzzle together. I suggest a cardboard box underneath with you with pre-cleaned, and primered parts, inside, then clean, and primer your pipe ends, on the spot. Use a knife, and/or some sandpaper to de-burr the ends of the pipe after you've cut them with a hacksaw. Just my 2cent's!

Answer 5

You could do it if you have the tools like crimping tools, clamping rings, fittings for the pipe, make sure the pipe is strapped so it doesn't sag. Sagging is one of the biggest problems. Using the new plastic pipe you are lucky because you WON'T need to use pipe dope or solder. You may want to consider copper pipe if you're not on well water. It would be more costly but will last 20-30 years or more. My double wide is nearly 18 years old and I have plastic Pex pipe but we can't even get fittings for it anymore.