I have 2000 Mitisubishi Mirage DE and I just replaced the brake pads myself. Before I had replaced the pads, my was making a grinding sound whenever I tried to stop. The old pads were really worn and thin so I believe that I fixed the grinding noise. However, when I tried testing the car to make sure that everything was good, I noticed that whenever I try to stop, it takes a longer than it should. I brought the car up in increments of 5,10,15,20,30, and 40 mph and tried to stop as fast as possible. Each time, the stop too long. Can anyone help?
2007-10-03 13:20:10 · 9 answers · asked by Anonymous in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
yeah... try a mechanic
2007-10-03 13:28:00 · answer #1 · answered by ieieiweroiweoiieieieiieiwoiehfui 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Sounds the old brakes cut into the rotors and drums, did you have them turned? (they surfaces need to be smooth for better braking and make sure their not "Over Limit" when turned or they will not let the brakes work right for stopping. After changing the pads it takes 4 or 5 applications to get the callipers to reset. Are the rear brake adjustments right? you should be able to slide the drums on and feel "SOME Resistance" when you turn the drums by hand. Is the brake fluid clean ans at the full mark? Did you bleed the brake system? While sitting in the drive way, start the car, pump the brake peddle and if it gets harder and seems to move less each time there is air in the system.
Talk to the person that turns the rotors & Drums about "Turn/ thickness Limits!"
2007-10-03 13:41:47 · answer #2 · answered by sidecar0 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
It sounds like there is air in your brake lines and your should bleed the brake system. This is a two MAN job, one behind the wheel to pump the brakes when the bleeder nut is tight, and the other to loosen the bleeder nut and allow the air to escape. The bleeder nut is located on each brake caliper, usually covered by a small rubber nipple( it looks sort of like a grease fitting) MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS FOR EACH OF YOUR 4 BRAKES. After the air is out immediately tighten the bleeder nut so air does not go back into the line. Example: the guy pumping the brakes pumps hard until the brake pedal is tight(little or no brake pedal travel), holds pressure on the pedal, as the guy underneath the vehicle loosens the bleeder nut the pedal will go to the floor. At that point the nut is tightened up. Repeat as necessary until the brake pedal is tight.
2007-10-03 13:32:39 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
that's customarily extra approximately by ability of the brake caliper sticking, so combating the brake pads from clearing the brake discs (or rotors). hence, by ability of ability of urgent the brake pedal gently you close up the hollow and end the squeak. Disassembly is principally the corrective action with impressive cleansing and lubrication. If the ca r has been laid up for a on the same time as then this is formed. Brake discs can on the whole be re-confronted a pair of situations, so long because of fact the disc thickness is adequate. maximum garages have the kit to try this in situ.
2016-12-17 16:28:34 · answer #4 · answered by ? 4 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Not to repeat, but those that mentioned the possible bad or groved rotors are probably correct. If the calipers were not disconnected, chances are there is no, or very little air in the lines. Bleeding is never a bad idea when working on brakes
2007-10-03 13:40:31 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
I have to think that you may have messed up the rotors and ground grooves into them. Plus you may induced air into the fluid system.
I would suggest that you take the car into a repair shop and have the brakes professionally done. You don't want to take the chance of killing yourself or someone else.
good luck.
2007-10-03 13:39:56 · answer #6 · answered by Fordman 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
what's going on here is that you wore out the rotors. i'm willing to bet there are deep groves in them. those grooves are preventing the break pads from fully pressing against the rotor. you can have the rotors turned if they aren't worn to badly, but your best bet is putting new ones on.
2007-10-03 13:29:34 · answer #7 · answered by rcoli 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Worn out pads, faulty break booster, master cylinder,low breakfluid level , air bubbles in break fluid,faulty break swicth
2016-05-31 01:56:03 · answer #8 · answered by kateregga 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Well that could mean worn roters or pads that were incorectly installed.
2007-10-03 13:32:39 · answer #9 · answered by "Shoprite" 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋