For straight cuts it's common to use a razor saw. The wide blade helps keeping the cut straight. Jeweller's saws can be used for more complex cuts or difficult to reach places. The blade is very thin and can snap so be carefull with it.
There are also saw blades which can be mounted in hobby knifes. These can also be usefull in tight spots.
One more note about the dremel: I would not use it on plastic as it's a bit of an over kill but if you do: use the circular saw blades, not the cutoff disks (like thin grinding stones). These create less heat and you have less risk the disc with shatter.
And just for completeness, there are also hotknives in the form of a U bow with heated metal wire or a knife mounted in a soldering iron. I personally wouldn't use those either as the saws give more control.
One more edit to react on mjobien's messge below: a filler is a very good suggestion. You will be needing quite a bit of it probably. :) The most common is the body filler with you can get in tubes in scale modelling stores. Just a creme to be smeared into gaps etc. Becomes rockhard be sanded afterwards.
If you need to build complex or curved shapes, then you can use epoxy putty (something like two component synthetic clay). Personally I would not recommend GS as it has quite a bit of memory and is harder to sand afterwards. I would go for a hardcuring putty like Milliput, A&B, Magic sculp, Aves, Brown stuff, or Tamiya. These can be sanded afterwards.
But I would not recommend green stuff (or kneadatite blue/yellow as it's officially called) for this. GS was optimised for sculpting organic figures which have to survive vulcanisation. As such it has a fair bit of memory and stay a little rubbery afterward making it hard to sand. I would suggest a putty like A&B, aves, Magic sculp or Milliput. These putties can be softened and smoothed with water and will be sandable after curing. They are not as strong as GS, so if you want the best of both worlds go for 1:1 GS with one of the hard putties. Another filler is the body filler you can get in scale modelling stores.
2007-10-03 00:40:20
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answer #1
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answered by minimaker 4
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Model Plastic Cars
2016-12-14 14:40:56
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answer #2
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answered by ? 4
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I agree with everyone that a razor saw is probably your best option. I just want to add that there is a substance called "green stuff" that is a 2 part modelling epoxy and can work really well to fill in any joints. It also makes a very strong bond and is quite workable and most importantly doesn't drip. One more thing is that you can use a very thin layer of it and kindof draw in details then sand it smooth once the stuff dries, I use it for my 40k models and with a little practice the results can be amazing.
2007-10-03 08:29:46
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answer #3
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answered by mjobrien10 3
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Get them off as soon as you can. If they've been on for years.....I'd be inclined to let them go. After sitting in the direct hot sun for an hour or so, using only MEN'S fingernails, start at one end and pull slowly upward. DO NOT PRY with putty knife, screwdriver, etc. Take your time. They do come off. There will be some residue of glue left behind. Solvent, elbow grease, you know, work!
2016-04-07 01:40:35
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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The best tool is a razor-saw... very narrow with fine teeth, it cuts parts cleanly. This is perfect for straight cuts where you might want to keep both pieces of a part. It's also rather inexpensive at only $10-15 USD http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/X-ACTO-razor-saw-blade
You can also use dremel tools to grind away material or cut with a cutting-disc... there are "nibbling" pliers... files... any number of tools.
GOOD LUCK !!
2007-10-03 04:03:10
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answer #5
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answered by mariner31 7
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i use a small set of side cutters with a straig jaw and cut away from the part , Then file or sand down to the park
2007-10-03 01:55:24
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answer #6
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answered by ijc333 2
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use cheep nail files that bend u can get them from a dollor store or use a dermal tool but be carefully and go slow dermal tools run at high rpm it is easy to get carried away and kill the part your working on
2007-10-04 07:03:09
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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a jewler's saw or a very slow speed dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.....if you go with them dremel....you have to go SLOWLY to avoid melting the plastic, but the jeweler's saw works great for straight line cuts
2007-10-02 22:51:50
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answer #8
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answered by #1 bossman 5
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