Crabtree Starbreaker Splitload 10way (5+5) Consumer Unit
2x 32a type B MCB (Ring main up and Downstairs)
2x 6a type B MCB (Lighting Up and Downstairs)
45a Type B MCB (Depending on load -Cooker)
Crabtree Starbreaker Blank Pack
Lights are wired in 1.5mm Twin and Earth
Sockets are wired in 2.5mm Twin and Earth
Cooker connection unit is normally wired in 10mm Twin and Earth (Depending on load)
10mm Earth Singles to cross bond
10mm Earth Singles for the Equpetential bonding of water gas and oil incoming
4mm Earth singles for cross bonding of all circuits and radiators to the cross bond in the bathroom
Heights for the sockets and switches to meet the disability act are:
450mm to the bottom of the socket
1200mm to the top of the switch
Please note: this is for UK only
2007-09-29 10:21:21
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answer #1
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answered by Ashrightuk 3
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This has more to do with code requirements. Start there, the information should be available. Here, #10, #12, and #14 wire is used, it depends on the amps, for example an appliance requiring 20 amp breaker in a 15 amp breaker would probably trip the breaker. If the need is 15 amp breaker on a 20 amp breaker it might not trip as needed.
Plug height here is 12" to the bottom of plug receptacle. This may be checked with code and permit people. You can do minor repairs or replacement, a lot of work you can rough in, but if a permit is required, only a licensed electrician can sign off and hook up for you in most cases. If you are doing a rewire on your house a permit would most likely be required and an electrician would have to sign off on the permit. This is to protect your safety and value of your house.
2007-09-29 14:02:37
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answer #2
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answered by RT 6
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In the UK you should get a "split load distribution board"12 way should be big enough sockets normally are wired in 2.5 mm twin and earth and lighting in 1.5mm your cooker should be in 6mm unless you are having some strange *** super range .
The minimum mounting height for a socket is normally no less than 150mm from finished floor level I generally put light switches at 1350mm to the centre .however you should ask the electrician doing the work for advise as you both need to singing from the same song sheet .The cable size for showers need to be worked out separately and don't forget you need earth cable for your main bonding
2007-09-29 15:59:23
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answer #3
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answered by barney 4
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For "general purpose" receptacles -- those in the Living Room amd the bed rooms --- use "14/2" NM cable ( "Romex') -- this are 15 amp Branch-Circuits , and allow 10 outlets , both receptacle and liting-outlets ,on each 15 amp Branch-Circuit.
Window AC units require a "seperate-circuit" wired with 12/2 cable. Receptacles in the kitchen and dining room are 20 amp circuits wired with 12/2. You need a minimum of two 20 amp circuits for the kitchen receptacles.
For the receptacles in the living room and bedrooms use "deep" plastic "Gem-boxes". Cut holes in the wall-finish so you can fasten the "gem-boxes" to the side of a stud with screws -- drill holes in the side of the boxes for the screws that fasten the box to the stud.
Channel the walls along the entire perimeter of the room with the wall-channel cut 2ft above the floor. This will expose the studs. Set the boxes 15" above the floor.
Consider routing communication-cables when you are planning the lay-out and cutting the wall-finish.
2007-09-29 15:55:54
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answer #4
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answered by A B 2
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A 2 row consumer unit should be big enough. Three row would be better because it would allow for extension in the future. Sockets are wired in 2.5 twin and earth cable. Lights are wired in 1.5 twin and earth and 1.5 pvc singles. Cookers are wired in 6 square twin and earth. Sockets are normally between 14 and 18 inches off floor level and 45 inches at worktop level. These regs are for ireland and england.
2007-09-29 13:58:43
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answer #5
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answered by Brian D 2
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Let the sparky buy the stuff. You have absolutely no idea how many extra 'bits' are needed, and I'd certainly be charging you extra if you've omitted to buy sleeving/ capping/ screws/ clips/ grommets/ rawlplugs/ conduit and slow the job down.
AND if anything you supply is faulty/unsuitable, then expect to pay in FULL for a return visit.
Get him/her in early to mark out the channeling and boxes and then you can call them back when the channelling is ready to go.
2007-09-29 14:10:22
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answer #6
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answered by Girlie Electrics 7
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If, as you say you are having the house rewired,(presumably by an accredited tradesman) ask him.
It pays him to enlighten you, because if you get the wrong kit, his time will be wasted as well.
One downside of supplying your own gear without consultation, is that if it goes wrong due to your input, any indemnity provided by the tradesman is voided.
If it is your house ensure that your electrical company is part p qualified, and familiar with the requirements of the HIP paperwork.
2007-09-29 15:07:25
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answer #7
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answered by jory 4
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codes are different in every state-county -and city.
you should get with who ever you are hiring to do the wireing. they should be a-ok with helping you with your questions. you can allways go to a neibor and measure theres- also you can call the city to ask for the codes if they say there are none call your county if they say there are none do what you want but ask your electition about what gauge to use for what your wirering
2007-09-29 13:56:21
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answer #8
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answered by Anonymous
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If you don't know that information to begin with I suggest you get an electrician to do it.
2007-09-29 13:48:23
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answer #9
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answered by dot&carryone. 7
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