chainging Oil in a Truck..??

Question

I have an 05 f150 its been about 3300 miles since i bought it. Its high enough for me to fit underneath it, so i was wondering do i need to jack it up? I rather not.. and also im 17, it seems pretty easy though and my dad will help me. What is a good oil for winter time? its not quite winter yet though so would it hurt the engine putting oil for winter while temperatures still hit 80 to 90 degrees?

I bought the truck with about 32000 miles on it. Its at around 37200... I drive about half city half highway... where is the filter located.. i dont have any mechanic friends just people that know how to change oil on their cars.

Answer 1

stay with the factory weight of 5-w30, the tolerance in the overhead cams on the Triton are not forgiving so ya want oil up there fast on start up, this weight is great for winter, i have had no problems with my expedition and i only use Pennzoil 5-w30 and i routinely see sub zero temp's in the winter, as for a filter the best one i have found is a pure 1 from purolator as for the location of the filter it should still be on the driver side of the block, mine is a 2000 so i don't really know if they changed it's location, oh ya the synthetic 5-w30 is a good choice over reg oil but the reg oil of any major brand is still a safe bet.when you pull the filter off of your truck be care full of the oil running down your arm, it can get messy.

Answer 2

Any Synthetic, change intervals and weight prescribed by the Owner's Manual. A good deal is Wal-Mart. Mobil 1 with filter for less than $40.00 Each quart is $5 a piece at least on any place, filter is like $10 or some close to that, dispose the oil... depending where you go you have to pay, some are free. Now you can change the oil about 7,500 miles depending of the usage. You can go even 15,000 on Synthetic but I go around 10,000 or 1 year on my car at Hwy mileage. So is cost effective since you do not change oil that often.

There is not any more winter oils, that is from the days of Single Grade oil. I used to run SAE 40 on my car since in the tropic is constant 90 degrees F. Here in the USA a multi-grade oil is fine. The manual will tell you what to use according to your driving conditions. What you can find is extreme weather oil, like if you live in the bone freezing artic or a blazing hot dessert, you need another grade of oil. Here in the US... nah!

In Germany, they change the oil once a year or 2 times a year. They do not have a Giffy Lube or such, you are forbidden by law to change your own oil and you have to take your car to the dealer. So comes like $120.00 an oil change. My friend she drives in the Autobahn over 80 MPH and she never had a lick of problems changing the oil 2 times a year. That proves a valid point. 3,000 miles or 3 months is an Urban Legend and a waste of cash. My dad's Audi was prescribed back in 1985 by the Owner's Manual 7,500 or 1 year. By the way, I never blew an engine yet and I have a 94 Grand Prix with 160,000+ to prove it.

Now you do the math... I rather have a grease monkey to change it for me and the check the fluids, is part of the Mobil 1 deal.

Answer 3

I am 16 years old and just went through almost the exact same thing with my 1988 Ford Ranger. My dad is away so I had to figure out how to do it by myself. It's pretty easy to do. The oil you should use would be Castrol 10w-40 motor oil. Castrol may seem a bit more expensive than the other brands but it's worth the extra few dollars. You also might want to consider going with the synthetic brand of oil. Synthetic oil last longer and helps keep performance. Oh and don't forget to change your oil filter and to check your fuel filter.

Hope this helps!

Answer 4

1 St time have a mechanic friend help you out and you will learn the correct way. Use the Owners Manual and look in Capacities
section and it will tell you the following:

1. Oil Weight to use
2. Amount of oil in regards to Quarts
3. Filter type.

Have fun and you will learn if you let someone help you out the 1 st time or 2. jim

Answer 5

Ford's Motorcraft synblend oil is now installed routinely for all their dealer's oil changes along with bonafide original equipment Motorcraft oil filters. Follow Ford's maintenance schedule and lubricant specifications in your owner's manual. Safety first, especially when going under a vehicle. Never go under a vehicle that has it's wheels removed without the proper jack stands supporting it on level ground and the wheels fully chocked.

See Advance Auto Parts online video "All About Oil"
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/mediaplayer/mediaplayer_clinics.asp

http://autorepair.about.com/od/regularmaintenance/ss/oil_change.htm

Answer 6

yea you can slide under with no prob,well that's if it's at stock height. just use the factory suggested oil and you'll be fine.if you can make the change to a synthetic rather than the organic,you'll notice a wee bit more power and better engine life. also but the best filter you can find.

Also switch your trans fluid and rear end to synth if you can,if you can't do that right away save up to have this done

Answer 7

If you can fit under it then go that route. That's what I do if I can fit also. For the oil, I would go with either 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 or 10W-40 in the rest of the season, just use a good name brand oil.

Answer 8

Put in what the manufacture recommends.

I use Castrol 10W-30 all year round in my '89 S-10. The inside the valve covers are as clean as the day I drove off the lot (back in '89).

Basics are at link below.

Answer 9

If you can fit underneath, then there's no reason to lift the car.

Also, NEVER work under a car while it is supported on a jack, or on bricks or cinderblocks. I have had two friends die this way. Always use proper vehicle stands or vehicle ramps (I prefer to use ramps, although I have stands for the difficult jobs.)

Answer 10

sounds like a good truck!! I use only 5w30Mobil 1, in all vehicles, the older 1's have gotten 185K on them beboe they gave up!! good luck