Which bit would I use for my horse?

Question

I have a three year old colt. Up until now I've used a snaffle bit, but now I'm looking for something a little more effective. How do I tell what kind of bit to use?? I heard tons of people say not to use the western, but when I ask they all tell me it depends on the horse. But, dumb me, I'm not sure what kind my horse needs!! lol Any suggestions how how to pick one out?

I've been working on him for about 8 months. He stops ok, but it'll take him awhile to stop. And when I try to get him to turn he just sorta turns his head. I ride the western style, but since everybody makes such a stink about the western bits I thought I'd try something else out with this guy

Answer 1

Personaly, the Perfect bit is one of my all time favorites. I started what is now my six year old gelding in it, and have never had the first problem with him fighting it, running thru it or anything else. And I use this bit to rope, and do western pleasure in. And he still has the sofest mouth in the barn. This is an excerpt from the perfect bit website on the thought and time that has gone into this bit:

BIT-BY-BIT
The Snaffle ~ The O-ring or D-ring snaffle is known for aiding flexibility. While the reins and the headstall rotate, the mouthpiece stays stationary so not to disturb the horse's mouth. They also allow lateral pressure for flexibility, but the snaffle lacks stopping ability - making it incomplete.

The hackamore ~ Best known for stopping. The hackamore applies chin and nose pressure only, which eliminates disturbance in the mouth of the horse, but forfeits needed flexibility - making it incomplete.

The ported bit~ Intended to control the headset. Applies tongue and roof of the mouth pressure to achieve flex at the poll. However, this bit does not increase stopping ability (contrary to popular thought) - making it incomplete.

The chain bit ~ Yesterday's best attempt at a multipurpose bit. This bit causes no disturbance in the roof of the mouth and allows some independent cheek movement. Unfortunately, the chain lacks body in the mouthpiece creating constant tongue pressure, making a full release of tongue and chin pressure impossible.

The "Perfect Bit" ~ Today's solution. This bit combines all of the positive attributes of other popular bits and improves them. The unique design allows for flexibility, stopping, flex at the poll, and full pressure release - making it the perfect bit.

You may want to check out the website for more information

http://www.theperfectbit.com/about.htm

I know everyone has different ideas about what is the best bit around, and the western bit has gotten a bad rap because of the hands holding it and not the bit itself. And needless to say, there are English bits that are just as bad in the wrong hands. Education about how and why a bit works is the key to making a sound decision. And if your horse works best in a snaffle, kimberwik or cathedeal bit, then stay with it. Lot of times training is what is needed, not a new bit. Hope this helps and good luck with whatever you decide.

Answer 2

I definitely agree with Mulereiner and the others who suggested staying with the snaffle. The truth of it is, the snaffle (as long as it fits him right, and your headstall is fitted correctly) is the very best bit for solving the problems you are having with him. Changing to a different bit is only going to confuse him further. The answer to the struggles you're having as far as him resisting when you ask him to turn or stop is to RIDE him more. A colt isn't ready to use a curb bit until he will neck rein in a snaffle comfortably. There is a world of difference between a curb and a snaffle. Both are good bits, but accomplish different things, and it depends on "where your horse is at" in the training process.

Stick with the snaffle. If you really need to get more control, you might try a tom thumb bit (still broken mouthed, but with short shanks and has a little curb strap action). The shank action combined with the tightening curb strap when you ask for a stop will be quite a bit stronger than what you get with a ring snaffle. But I would only switch to this if your colt is dangerous to ride (running away with you, bucking you off, etc.). Good luck.

Answer 3

Moving into a stronger bit is not the answer. A horse can stay in a snaffle forever. Perhaps you should use a drop or flash nose band which when properly fitted, make the snaffle more effective. If you need help with fitting one of these, consult a good trainer.

Only a very advanced horse should be in a strong bit. When I say advanced, I mean one that needs very little rein control and works off your seat and legs.

Answer 4

If this were my youngster, I would keep him in a snaffle. Young horses mouths are still developing. The standard snaffle bit works in a crackerjack fashion, and if not fitted properly or of the wrong size, can cause a horse to evade the bit if its pinching either his tongue, corners of his lips. He will throw his head if its jamming him in the palate (roof of his mouth). I would try a Pinch less snaffle or a French link snaffle. The French link snaffle may be a better choice as it will lay flat across the tongue. I would also have his teeth checked. Horses can only think of one thing at a time. If he is uncomfortable for any reason, either in his body or because of poor fitting tack, his focus will be on that rather than on his lessons.

Answer 5

Why does your colt need a more effective bit? Does the bit you are using fit properly? You need to have someone look at the colt with you and make a recommendation based on what is happening. If you are using a broken snaffle, and the colt is shallow mouthed, he may be resistant because every time you pull on the reins, you hit him in the roof of his mouth. I assume by "western" you mean a curb bit. There is nothing wrong with a shallow port, short shank curb, especially if it solves the problem. I had an Arabian mare who was shallow mouthed. She fought the broken snaffle I started her with, tossing her head, resisting turns, etc. I had a friend with years of horse experience come watch us and she spotted the problem right off. Every time I moved the reins, the mare tossed her head and got fidgety. My friend looked at the mare's mouth and suggested a mild curb, saying the mare acted like the bit was uncomfortable. The difference was amazing. The first time I put her in the curb, it was like having a different horse. That didn't mean she didn't still need more training; it just meant we could get to it. The key is not to use a harsher bit in place of training.

Answer 6

I would use the mildest curb bit you can find- basically a snaffle with a broken piece, but add on the curb chain (I ride english mainly, so do not know the exact name). Technically, you should train the horse to respond to the snaffle and the curb- 90% horses do not need a harsher bit, they just need more training and time. If you are ever planning on showing western, you do need a curb bit, so I am not going to say anything bad about moving to those.

Answer 7

never mind about my idea eariler stick with your bit I can't see how a pelham would hurt but maybe use a western rope hackmore, and go back to the basics, if you have turning problems a curb bit will make it worse because those bits have horrible turning power thats why you neck rein.
http://www.brokenhearttrading.com/online_gallery/images/hackamore_0001.jpg
you need to work on what is called the weight aids, leg aids and control of the horses body. When you ask the horse to turn in western riding you sould not be pulling on the reins, when I was riding a horse that won't turn and only did his head I would take my outside leg and apply pressure close to his foreleg and use my inside leg and apply pressure past or at the girth, this made the horse want to move away from pressure from my outside leg and move forward and turn. a horse is not going to want to knock his foreleg into your foot so he normally will move it forward and turn, you then take your foot away , you can also apply weight into the stirrup-the direction you want, Western horses move away from pressure. I would use a western bit after you get his responsive. you may even want to use a crop you can ask him to turn and if he just turns his head use the crop as a tool and touch him not hit in the rear he sould move his hind quarters away from the pressure. A trainer would be the best to show you, because the horse sounds like he is confused, he's not 100% sure what you want or he's not 100% sure he wants to do it.

Answer 8

A snaffle is one of the most gentle bits you can use. If you and your horse aren't ready to try complicated options like a pelham, you could first try a thinner snaffle bit. The thinner the bit, the harsher it is. I don't know how thick your current bit is, but you might want to try something similar that is a little more harsh.

Answer 9

Hey neighbor, Casper here ;)

You really need to keep the horse in a snaffle and work him through the issues your having with him. A bigger bit (kimberwicke, pelham, or shanked western) is not going to solve these issues and only create worse ones.

You need to really work the horse at a one rein when he refuses to stop, work on seat cues, work on verbal cues etc.

Lots of transitions and lots of suppling. The horse actually has holes in its training, not a problem of needing a bigger bit.

Answer 10

Why do you need a more effective bit? Even your upper level riders use snaffle bits. If the bit is no longer working, assume that there's a reason that is NOT related to the bit.
Could his teeth need floating?
Could your riding not be strong enough to support what your asking?
Could the horse not be strong enough to do what you're asking?