Modualr Homes?

Question

Do any of you have any opinions on which name brand of modular homes are the nicest? Which have the best options and the best built? Which have the least problems and complaints? Any comments?

Answer 1

Ive done a LOT of work on manufactured homes (both mobile and modular).

These are the things I suggest people look for: (I suggest these things rather than manufacturer names, becaue most manufacturers build a 'spread' of different quality and priced homes)

1) 2x6 exterior walls - if the salesman tells you the home has 2x4 load bearing walls... that means ONLY the outside walls of the home are made with 2x4's! ALL the interior walls are made with smaller lumber. Exterior should have OSB sheathing, and house type vinyl siding, or 'Hardy" board (a cement product) -- note -- some vinyl siding on the 'lower end' homes is thinner than standard house siding, leaving it more brittle and likely to break.
2) Entry doors should be full size (standard house type doors) -- many are shorter, they have to be to fit those 7ft walls.
3) Floor joists should be 2x6 or 2x8 (for mobile home where the steel frame is left intact) or 2x10 or 2x12 (for 'modular' homes where the steel frame is removed), with plywood or OSB board... avoid partical board. (many 'low end' manufacturers will offer the OSB or ply as an 'upgrade', and charge you more for it)
4) Plumbing should be CPVC (cream colored pipe, usually) NOT 'Pex' style tubing. The Pex tubing does tend to flex a bit more than cpvc when hovering at the freezing range... but it costs the homeowner a LOT more to maintain. Just go compare prices on Qwest fittings to actual brass... You can buy a brass valve for $5 -- the Qwest valve is going to cost at least $8. Or if you want to use the crimping tool for the copper bands on the "Pex" tubing.. you'll shell out $100 for it alone. I keep parts for both types of plumbing on hand all the time for service calls.... the "Pex" always costs more, and requires just as much work as the CPVC.
5) Roof trusses should be made of full 2x4 lumber. (Many of the 'box' homes use only 1.5"x 1.5") Shingles should be at LEAST 25 yr warranty. If you can get "architectural" shingles thats even better (Theyre thicker).
6) On the interior of the home, I like to see actual wood cabinetry.. not the paper covered mdf, or partical board you will find on the 'box homes'. Interior doors should be standard doors, whether they are 'smooth' or 'paneled', and use full size hinges and hardware. No Plastic Knobs, lol. Carpet should be a good grade, and you will often find laminated flooring in place of vinyl flooring. (The laminate could be HPL, or wood veneer on the surface.. I prefer the wood myself). Actual ceramic tile at an entry door is a nice touch, I think. All the faucets in the kitchen, bathrooms, etc, should be metal, not plastic. While it is common for tubs to be made of acrylic, I still prefer to NOT have my sinks made out of plastic.

As you go shopping... you will notice certain things... lower quality homes tend to go for more 'glitz'... more of the trim will have 'shiny brass' included (tho its actually only plastic)...while the better quality homes rely on solid craftsmanship, and quality parts. (Ive been in thousands of homes, and this is what Ive noticed, hehehe)

About the dealerships - ask for references! Ask about the backlog for service from either themselves, or the manufacturer. (6 months is VERY common for manufacturer warranty work -- Dealer should be there right away. They will often tell you to wait till about 6 months, and keep a list of everything you notice that needs attention, and then send it in. Put it in writing, do not just make a phone call) Go talk to previous customers and get their viewpoints on how they were treated, and whether they like their home.

Well, this has given you something to start comparing notes with, heheheh...

Happy Shopping