What makes 10w-30 Oil thicker?!? Is there anything Thicker for Motoroil?!?

Question

I have an Engine Knock that has Developed in the Past 10k Mile's, just after changing to Synthetic. I have a Theory that it is the fact that the Synthetic Oil is Thinner, and driving my Camaro Z28 without the Engine Warmed-up with this Thinner Type of Oil (Even though it is 10w-30). I think that 10w-30 Synthetic is more like 5w-30 Regular Motor Oil.

Also, I have noticed that my LS1 burns oil with Synthetic. It Sucks!! I must make it Thicker, somehow!!

So, what can I do to make the Motor Oil Thicker?!?
Is there such thing as 15w-30?!? Or 15w-40 Synthetic?!?

I have tried adding Lucas Oil to the Oil, and it doesn't get rid of the Knocking Sound. I don't believe that the Lucas Oil is Thick Enough.

The Engine knock has gotten worse over time, and louder. It never did this, until After I switched to Synthetic.

I don't want to switch back to Regular Oil, unless its Safe. However, the Engine DID run Quieter with Regular Oil!!

So what should I do?!?

Listen, Dude!

It is Mobile 1 10w-30 Synthetic Motor Oil. I WAS using Pennsoil Regular 10w-30.

I DON'T have alot of Learning to do with Oil!! You need to tell me why the Filter would cause such a Knock!! :O

What is the Oil Spresher supposed to be on my 2000 Z28?!? My Pressure Meter on the Dash says about 40+ at Idle.

Would changing the Oil Filter to a K&N Oil Filter help get rid of the Knock?!?

Answer 1

what your reading on the oil bottle has little to do with thickness......A.P.I.[ American petroleum institute] rate,s the oil.....S.A.E. [ society of automotive engineer,s] 10w30....only mean,s that the blend of oil in the bottle flow,s as well as a 10 weight in cold temperature,s & protect,s as well as a 30 weight in hot temperature,s......it is not necessarily a blend of 10 & 30 weight oil,s......they may start with a straight 30 weight...add chemical catalyst,s to break it down to obtain what they consider 10w30........or start with a 10 weight & add chemical enhancement additive,s to obtain the same.....the same apply,s to synthetic,s......your best bet is to use a straight weight oil that is appropriate for the seasonal temperature,s it will be used in.....for 4 season,s...you will be changing your oil 4 time,s a year......synthetic,s are rated better.....the chemical,s used in multigrade motor oil,s can increase oil consumtion.......allway,s change your oil filter when changing your oil.....if a filter become,s plugged up....serious engine damage can occur......hope I have explained this to your satisfaction.....good luck!

Answer 2

You have what a lot of people get when they change to synthetic--your car is old and the motor is used to regular oil--my motor burned it like it was free. I am back to regular and all is well again. Oil is oil--only the package is different--just like gas is gas--only the station name is different. Synthetic is sold by clever advertising----you got to get back to what you used--and keep it changed as required at 3000 mile intervals. You cannot go wrong with the tried and true methods. Thicker oil has additives--that is all--and it can lead to sludge and ruined motors. If you have a knock--then you have a problem--and thick cover-ups are not the way to fix it. You need to do the valve train . Doing the correct work ensures long motor life at a minimum cost. Otherwise you are going to have a car without a motor that runs and you will spend heaps on trying to fix that issue. Sure STP and other stuff quiets an engine--it does what it says it would do--but they NEVER say for how long--notice that?? In a week you are back to all the tapping and probably closer to losing the motor.

Answer 3

You don't want thicker oil. That will not solve the problem. Synthetic oil must meet the same specs. as motor oil. Look at the numbers on the container. You need to find out the reason for the knock. Changing oil will not do it. How is the oil pressure ? Is it normal or possibly low ? About your oil burning, you could have a broken ring that could create a knock and cause oil burning. Thicker oil will also INCREASE the oil burnimg. I would suggest a compression test to see if that might find the problem.

Answer 4

LOOK, here are the facts as you stated, you have developed a KNOCK in the past 10k and its getting worse. You have spent 10k miles trying to resolve the problem with a variety of oil changes. Its too late, your only going to incur further damage in this manner. If you have 40# oil pressure this enough to sustain a HEALTHY engine. But you do not have a healthy engine. Take your car to a reputable shop and have them check it out. Most shops dont charge anything to listen to it. Your going to need engine work, and they will want your buisiness. While your getting your car fixed, then you can educate your self on the chemistry and properties of oil. Most people just stick with the manufacturers recomendations. 5w30 Castrol is tried and true.

Answer 5

You have a lot of learning to do about motor oil. You say you tried synthetic, most likely the fake, over the counter junk you get at Wal-mart. Castrol Syntec and Mobil 1 are blends at best, I don't care if they say "fully synthetic".

If you want a REAL synthetic, go here:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/default.aspx?zo=1452557

They make thicker synthetics, 5w40, 10w40,0w-40, 20w50, etc.


By the way, if you tried Lucas, remember they recommend using it as 20% of your fill. Believe it or not, the filter may have something to do with your knock also. Get an Amsoil, or Purolator Pure One.

Answer 6

Your pressure gauge says about 40 psi, thats normal. I have heard that synthetic oils can leak easier than conventional oils, so maybe they can burn easier also, i dont know. I run 15W40 full synthetic in a few heavy duty diesel engines, that might work allright for your situation, but not in the winter time. But if it keeps getting worse id take it to a shop, make sure its the oil and not something thatll cause a catastrophic failure

Answer 7

If it is a metal ping noise you are about to break a wrist pin or connecting rod. If its a diesel noise change your spark plugs and use premium gasoline. Automatic transmission? check torque converter bolts on fly wheel. There is 50 weight motor oil. Yes, even 15w 50 for really worn out motors.

Answer 8

i would suggest trying to use shell rotella t motor oil it is made for 18 wheelers it has a lot of detergents in it so it cleans the motor and it is a thick formula i run it in my 302 ford engine and it purrs like a kitten

Answer 9

don't use anythink thicker than 10w-30. the only difference from 5w-30 is that it is thicker when it is cold. Thicker is worse because you wont have enough lubrication for cold starting.

Answer 10

If its a 2000 and you care for your car TAKE IT TO A SHOP, they will tell you exactly what the problem is. Problem solved!!