Why is my toilet tank moving? Whats the fix?

Question

Just installed a new toilet tank flush mechanism. It included a new rubber gasket for between the bottom seat ceramic piece and the ceramic tank. I followed the instructions- tightened the two screws and leveled the tank. I didn't want to over tighten the screws because I didn't want to break anything. So now I have no leaks but the water tank doesn't feel solid. When I push it - it kind of sways back and forth. I'm worried someone might lean back and cause the ceramic to break. Have an Answer for a fix?

Answer 1

You probably didn't do anything wrong. I have noticed that some toilet tanks I have installed are loose that way. I don't like it either but that's the way they're designed. Maybe you can put something between the tank and wall to prevent it from being moved around too much.

Answer 2

When i get a complaint from a customer about this this is what i do. If you look between your tank and bowl there should be a small gap. I tighten both sides of the bolts holding the tank to the bowl equally until that gap is almost gone. Some tanks have three bolts, just go around a bit at a time. Then I tighten a bit more and push on the tank to see if it is still loose. If it is i tighten a bit more, and keep going until the tank stops moving. Once it stops you stop to. Don't give it another half turn just in case. You can crack the tank or bowl. That said there is nothing wrong with the way it is now as long as it is not to loose and not leaking. Many plumbers tighten down those bolts just so it doesn't leak and not all the way. Good luck!

Answer 3

I just had a similar problem. I have the newer fluid master guts and my toilet wouldn't fill back up. At all. As if the water was off. The sink still worked and the temperature last night didn't go near freezing. The shut off valve(located under/behind the toilet) I replaced last year has a pressure sensitive failsafe inside that will stop water flow if the pressure is to high. This normally only happens on well water or in areas where water pressure changes drastically. Hope this helps anyone

Answer 4

Hi - Are there not a couple of holes in the top rear of the cistern (tank) to screw it back to the wall. If so, mark them, remove the cistern, drill the holes in the wall, insert plugs and refit the cistern to the pan. Insert screws through the holes and tighten. Push a tap washer onto the screws before you tighten them in. This will act as a 'buffer' between the screw and the cistern and reduce the possibility of cracking the cistern with the screws.
Alternatively - How much gap is there behind the cistern? Presumably this will be little/nil. Remove the lid from the cistern. Ease the cistern forward very slightly,( from your question this shouldn't be difficult). Squirt a bead of silicone sealant along the top/back edge and push the cistern back into it. Any excess silicone will squeeze out the top, wipe this off carefully with toilet/kitchen roll. Make sure the cistern is level. This job is best done first thing in the morning or last thing at night, this will allow the silicone enough time to dry before anyone needs to use the toilet. Leave the lid off the cistern until the silicone is dry.

Answer 5

You installed it properly. If you're still worried, find some rubber spacers and place them between the tank and the bowl to help stabilize. But don't try to tighten the bolts any more; it will crack the bowl or the tank, then you'll have to start over again.

Answer 6

Toilet manufacturers used to include rubber pieces that went between the tank and bowl for better support and to prevent cracking the tank while tightening. They no longer do this. Try wedging a shim between the wall and tank.

Answer 7

I just put in a new toilet too
I'm not recommending this for you situation...
But I attached some wood on the wall behind the tank to stabilize it

Answer 8

Jamie T is correct!