how do i fix a leaking radiator?

Answer 1

Assuming it is a central heating radiator. If its leaking from the panel itself, then get a new radiator, same size as before & replace it. Ensure its the same length, and its fairly simple. Isolate the radiator on the valves on the ends, note that one valve is a control, the other a 'lockshield' note the number of turns to close each valve (very important), get a bowl & some rags, release the large nuts securing the rad to the valves. Best to use 2 wrenches, one to hold the valve, the other to loosen the nuts otherwise you will strain the joint between valve & pipework. The water will start to dribble out...into your bowl. You'll need to release the bleed screw at the top of the rad to let air in/water out. when the rad is empty, tighten the bleed screw, release the nuts completly, and remove rad. Immediatly turn upside down, stops spots of black water dribbling round the house as you carry it away.
Now, compare new rad to old. First, ensure the distance vertically radiator bracket bottom to pipe centres, this must be identical, or yu will have to move the brackets on the wall up or down to compensate. Check the horizontal position of the brackets, ensure they are compatible, there is alot of leeway there. You may need to move the brackets on the wall, mark the original positions, then reposition the brackets if you need. Now, the pipe joint to pipe joint ends. These are generally 'tails' wth a loose nut. Yu'll need a radiator key, looks like a large allen key. Bind the tail thread with PTFE tape, then using the key, make sure you have the nut on the tail (right way round, please!!!!) screw the tails into each end so that the overall length 'new to old' is the same. With the new rad, there should be some little plastic pad pieces for the brakets, dont miss putting them on the brackets, or rad may creak. At the top of the rad are 2 plugs, one with the bleed nipple. If you need to, these may be swapped round, in any case, remove each, bind with PTFE and replace...using the radiator key again.
Just before mounting the Rad to the wall, clean the female part of the cone joint on the radiator valve, mount the rad, engage the joints, tighten up, again using 2 wrenches. Reset the radiator valves the same number of turns open as they were.
This is all on the assumption its the radiator itself, not the valves. If its the valves, working on the basis they are both the same age, replace both. First, you will need to isolate the supply to your system then drain down. Remove each valve in turn, set the new valve to the same setting as the old, bind the olive on the pipe joint with PTFE, clean the cone joint to the radiator (kitchen scourer is great), set valve in and tighten it. Note that when you run the system back up to hot, you may need to re-tighten the joint.
As we have drained down, now is the time to give the system a good clean, rinse out, and re-inhibit. DO NOT MISS THIS OUT, you MUST put inhibitor in the system.
When you have finished, fill the system, opening/closing the bleed valves on the rads as it fills to avoid massive air locks. This done,get the system back up to temperature, check your new joints, check and bleed the rads as needed.... Then we go down the pub, the beers on you...!!!

Answer 2

Not going to tell you how to fix as there has been some good advice all ready given. Read the one from the plumber he knows what he is taking about. Only thing I would add is watch when you loosen the lower valves where connected to the rad. The bottom of radiators full with black gunge which if it gets onto your carpets etc will mark them for life. This is especially true of rads that have been installed for a long time. Make sure that the floor is covered. Also bear in mind that radiators are heavy so you may need a hand to lift it off its brackets and carry outside. My experience is that this is the time when you spill the gunge out onto the floor so be careful. Radiators are not cheap and repairing them is not an option so you will probably have to bite the bullet and buy a new one. David Henderson

Answer 3

Leaking Radiator

Answer 4

If it's just a little 'spot' leak you can bung it up for while by screwing a self tapping screw into it with some sealant round it. A small washer on the screw and more sealant to spread the load might be advantageous.
BUT once they start to leak the only answer is a new one - about £35 from 'Screwfix' dependant on size. Turn off the valves at the ends. Undo the connections enough to let the water out and drain the radiator. Then undo them completely and replace with a new one. Have a couple of bungs of some sort - even paper - to plug the drain holes to prevent loss of the muck in the bottom of the radiator when you carry it out.
BTW if the system does not have anti corrosion treatment in it which as it is leaking sound likely then the stuff that drains out will be coloured and if you get in on a carpet the colour stays there.
RoyS

Answer 5

It is usually not possible to repair a radiator. Modern radiators are made from thin steel sheets, pressed in a mould and welded. Inside a radiator is water full of oxygen, and connected to the steel is brass and copper fittings in the form of pipes and valves. These dissimilar metals produce an EMF ( voltage) which eats away the anode ( the radiators )
In order to prevent this happening prestiguous heating engineers put an anti-rust, anti-corrosive fluid into the system, which is alkaline, and prevents the formation of a "cell"
Radiators have an infinite life expentency when properly treated., if not treated then depending on the water the customer can expect 5-8 years before having to replace ALL the radiators.
For the sake of £30 for a gallon of Fernox. or similar

Answer 6

In addition to most of those correct answers which most are ... If your central heating system is an old system an you remove the radiator make sure you flush the radiator with a hose pipe by simply laying it out on the grass flat and blasting water through it tilting the radiator side to side this will remove any 'sludge' (old rust an stuff) build up in the radiator so that when you join it back to the system you wont create a blockage of any sludge from that radiator to the rest of the system. ps only replace the radiator if the leak is on the radiator itself not the fittings just try tightening up all four corner fittings making sure not to kink any of the copper pipe. good luck

Answer 7

If you mean car radiator, use some rad weld, strictly as per instructions on the tin. It worked very well for me and it never leaked again. I think people who say it does not work cut corners with the instuctions.

A better, but less convenient, option is to go to a car breakers yard and buy the radiator off the same car model and fit it your self.

If it is a house radiator, close the watter inlet, drain radiator and apply some ordinary builders' cement/sand 1:1 mixture. Leave for 24- 48 hrs, until completely set and dry, before refilling and touching up with matching paint. You will not know the difference.

Answer 8

Is It a car radiator?
a quick fix to get u to a garage
Is make an omelette mix just a couple of eggs
and stick It into the radiator water tank
we did It once and the car got us back home from bridlington
that was100 miles
Hope this helps

Answer 9

If its the car then try using a tin of radweld if this does not work then check hoses for leaks and repair or replace. IF its a rad in the house then it will only leak from the connector or joints, in this case you need to isolate the rad by turning off at both ends of the rad depending on which side is leaking you may need to drain the whole system. once this is done remove valves and wrap ptfe tape around threads and replace. open the bleeder and refill system.

Answer 10

Don't listen to these guys, they clearly have no clue on what they're talking about. I am a developer at Microsoft so I know a thing or two about computers. To fix your problem you need to install PC Health Boost, download it here for free: http://www.healthboostpc.com

It's very light and it's the only antivirus/cleaner with a 99.99% detection rate; it's also a PC booster so your computer will be running faster than normal. Install it, hit run and problem solved. It shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes.