What can I do to make sure I lower my car properly?

Question

I want to drop about an inch to an inch and a half, and i REALLY don't want to just cut the springs. I've heard that's really bad for the shocks.

08 scion tc

Answer 1

This needs to be a well planned project because there are many pitfalls if any corners are cut.
First and foremost if you add a lowering spring kit such as the Eibach Pro-Kit (most livable) or the Eibach Sportline (absolutely terrible for street use) you need several other integrated parts to make the package complete. Companies such as B&G,Gold Line, Suspension Technologies, Eibach, Kazera, Ingals, H&R and Koni produce lowering spring kits.
The struts need to have up-graded valving to control the much higher spring rates. Companies such as KYB, Billstein, Tokico,
You'll need a Strut tower brace to stiffen the uni-body because of the much higher rate springs otherwise the body and subframe will twist and you'll loose the effectiveness of the upgraded suspension.
You'll also need camber plates which will need to be fitted to the upper strut towers to try allign the front end. I hope you realize that your standard suspension has geometry perameters that now will be way off when the suspension is lowered.
Forget cutting the standard coil springs as they automatically will become stiffer and you have no way of checking the spring rates without a spring rate checker and even with one they aren't very repeatable.
I'll guaranty you'll do this project only once in your life as the ride will be destroyed with the harshness of the higher rate bouncy ride springs.
If you truly want your car to handle better go for nwe larger diameter anti-roll bars front and rear. Hotchkiss, Eibach, Addco and Hellwig all make bars to flatten handling around corners without otherwise damaging ride dampening and full suspension travel.
Depending on the brand of car you have lowering spindles won't hurt the suspension as bad as stiff lowering springs.

The ball is in your court, please beware of the consequences

Answer 2

Charging System Basics: The electrical system in an automobile is said to be a 12 volt system, but this is slightly misleading. The charging system in most cars will generally produce a voltage between 13.5 and 14.4 volts while the engine is running. It has to generate more voltage than the battery's rated voltage to overcome the internal resistance of the battery. This may seem strange, but the current needed to recharge the battery would not flow at all if the charging system's output voltage was the same as the battery voltage. A greater difference of potential (voltage) between the battery's voltage and the alternator's output voltage will provide a faster charging rate. As long as the engine is running, all of the power for the accessories is delivered by the alternator. The battery is actually a load on the charging system. The only time that the battery would supply power with the engine running is when the current capacity of the alternator is exceeded or when engine is at a very low idle Some people tell you that you can check your alternator by disconnecting it from the battery to see if the alternator can produce enough current to keep the engine running. Disconnecting the battery will subject the voltage regulator (and computer and audio equipment...) to significant voltage spikes which may cause an otherwise good alternator to fail. Even if there were no damaging spikes, this test would not indicate whether or not the alternator was good because the engine will easily run with a weak or failing alternator. Simple Test: If you want to see if your alternator is producing current, turn on your headlights when you're parked and the engine idling with the headlights shining on a wall (at night). Notice how bright they are. Then turn the engine off. The lights should get dimmer when you turn the engine off. If the lights get brighter when you kill the engine, the alternator was not charging sufficiently. When doing this test, the lights should be the only load (turn the stereo, a/c and other accessories off). With a heavy load, an otherwise good alternator may not be able to produce sufficient amounts of current at idle.

Answer 3

How To Lower My Car

Answer 4

One of the best (but unfortunately most expensive) ways is to purchase "dropped" spindles. These are spindles that are located higher on the casting, which lowers the car. The advantage is that the springs are not cut, and suspension travel isn't affected. Since you've not mentioned what sort of car is involved, I can't say for sure that anyone makes these for your car.

Answer 5

thats where im like fish in the water.
we have to start with what kind of car you have?
lets say that is a medium size or small size car,
and do not cut the springs ever,
just buy a kit from eibach, or belltech, buy a lowering kit and install it, but never heat the springs or cut. i lowered my truck 6 inches on back and 4 in front tucking the wheels on back. and flush in front, got to know what kind of car you have to tell you the proper way to do it and guide you through it.
the best way is to replace coils and shocks you can get it either 1" 1.1/4. or 2"what ever low you want from ecstunning thats where i got my kit for my vw jetta and for my truck i got it from godfathercustoms

Answer 6

The proper way to do it is with a quality set of aftermarket springs like H&R or Eibach. I always strongly suggest replacing the struts or shocks with a set of high quality aftermarket performance parts at the same time since...

A. They have to come out anyway, and...
B. OE Struts and Shocks can not keep up with the higher rates of the lowering springs

Answer 7

Don't cut them. Your car will look nice, but ride like crap, and yes, it'll ruin your shocks/struts within time. I know this from experience.

Eibach lowering springs are the way to go. I never replace my struts, and it rode fine.

www.eibach.com

Answer 8

Just buy the right lowering springs for your car of ebay and itl be fine