I have no problem cuting for windows and doors, etc... but when it comes to cutting corners on the ceiling - I just cant figure it out. What am I doing wrong?
What should be done differently for a floor or ceiling than a window or door?
2007-09-19 03:21:02 · 14 answers · asked by oneakmusic 2 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
I am assuming that the cuts are shaped wrong. If they are then you are missing the geometry of how they match the adjacent pieces. If instead they match but do not fit together tightly your walls are probably not meeting at right angles. That is more of a trial and error issue that you should try to work out by sacrificing some pieces of molding in practice cuts to get the right angles for each individual corner. All of that is covered in reference below.
2007-09-19 03:38:28 · answer #1 · answered by Rich Z 7 · 2⤊ 0⤋
This Site Might Help You.
RE:
Can somebody please explain how to cut crown moulding with an miter saw?
I have no problem cuting for windows and doors, etc... but when it comes to cutting corners on the ceiling - I just cant figure it out. What am I doing wrong?
What should be done differently for a floor or ceiling than a window or door?
2015-08-13 19:45:13 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
LOL, I have to laugh, not at you but because I am thinking back to the first time I hung crown molding... Please, don't stand in front of your miter saw and work through a process of elimination to figure it out as I did... waste of time. Unfortunately, it is a compound cut (cutting two directions at the same time) and can not be explained simply. I think your best bet is to go to Lowes and buy a book. If you can find the directions to your miter saw, that might help.
2007-09-19 04:05:21 · answer #3 · answered by danielmbyrne 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Cutting crown molding requires a compound miter saw. Most compound miter saws actually have marks on them for common crown molding. My guess is that you want 90 degree inside corners for 52/38 molding.
Your bevel angle (tipping the blade) is 33.9
Your miter angle (turning the blade in relation to the table) is 31.6
2007-09-19 04:23:15 · answer #4 · answered by Webster 2 · 1⤊ 0⤋
I have done this for a friend I worked with. It was crown molding going on top of her cherry kitchen cabinets. I had to make a jig for my miter saw to hold the molding the way it was going to mount and then I was able to cut my 45's. You see the jig took care of the bevel, so all I had to do was cut the intersecting joints. Hope this helps you. I know it seems tough but it's really not with the jig.
2016-03-22 14:43:32 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
You may be trying to cut the molding in the wrong direction. when you cut molding for a window you lay the molding with the detail facing toward the front of the saw and you make your mitered cut. When you cut ceiling molding or floor molding you need to place the molding on your saw in the same orientation as it will be on the wall. this means instead of the detailed section of molding facing the saw blade you will have to hold it so that the detail edge faces you. I hope this makes sense and helps.
2007-09-19 03:36:12 · answer #6 · answered by skibm80 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
the piece you are cutting cannot lay flat on the bed of the saw it has to be placed against the back fence and the bed, but you have to remember that this position is also upside down. ( the surface that is on the bed of the saw typically goes against the cieling.) you should also make sure that the book you buy has a section on coping. no one actually cuts the inside corners at 45%. to allow for imperfect walls (not at 90 degrees) they cut the one piece square to the adjacent wall. and then then cut a 90 degree angle on the continuing piece. then you take a coping saw and cut off at a negative angle the profile left by the saw cut, this will give the appearance of a perfect 90 even if it is off by several degrees. Buy a book the illustrations will make it easier to understand. Do yourself a favor and rent a finish nailer (pnuematic) to do the job. (no hammerhead marks and easy to fill the nail heads)
2007-09-19 04:15:53 · answer #7 · answered by Jon F 3 · 1⤊ 0⤋
You need a different angle for ceilings and floors than windows and doors.
Windows and doors make an L shape.
Ceilings and floors make a V shape.
Windows and doors:
Make an X with the moulding laying flat. Mark both boards. You have an \ or / line on top of boards.
Ceilings and floors:
Make an X with your moulding on the sides and mark both boards . You have a \ or / line on sides of boards.
2007-09-19 03:34:56 · answer #8 · answered by txpyxie 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
When cutting crown molding the only difference is the angle it is installed at. In other words you have to cut it while it is at the angle it will be installed at.
Wall molding and window molding is installed flat. Crown molding is installed, usually, on a 45 degree angle. That is the same angle you will have to hold the pieces when you cut them.
This should solve your problem.
2007-09-19 06:26:09 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
I screwed up nearly every time I tried. That's why I stopped using crown moulding, except to refinish my kitchen cabinets.
2007-09-19 06:00:02 · answer #10 · answered by samans442 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋