Car starting problem: puzzling?

Question

I have a 1999 Chevy Prizm. Here's the deal: If car sits overnight, or for 8 hours at work, it needs 4 or 5 turns on the ignition switch before it starts. First 2 turns, nothing. Then usually a false start (much like a weak battery). When it finally starts, usually on the fifth turn of the key, it does so with a good, healthy spark. Then, once it's been running, car will start fine anytime throughout the day (say, if I go out for lunch or an errand). Battery is brand new (replaced with warranty, did not solve problem. I also sanded the terminal connections and scraped away all corrosion.)
I suspect the ignition switch or the ignition coil. Key question to my mind is: What is it about the car sitting for 8 hours or more that causes the initial starting failure? The pattern is so consistent I feel like I could just live with it, but I fear one of these mornings it will simply fail to start, period.
Any thoughts or similar experience appreciated.

Answer 1

i had a similar problem. turned out one of my battery terminals was loose. if that is not your case i would suspect a loose cable from the battery at the alternator. check it out as it would do the same.

Answer 2

Probably due to a cold start fault. Most vehicles will do that if: 1) injectors are dirty that go to valves. 2) Valves have carbon buildup 3) starter terminals need to be resurfaced/replaced. 4) Bad/low grade gas.

Injector service will possibly free up the carbon buildup and free up your injector lines. I say probably on the carbon buildup because some valves have secondary holes on the top that the main hole filters to. The injector sits on top of the main hole (intake) and will be cleaned easily with an injector service. The secondary ones may not get cleaned fully because of where they sit on the valve.

The main reason why it starts and runs fine after warming up is due to just that -- warming up. With a cold start, you have to warm all the fluids back up. i.e. 8 hour workday, sitting for an extensive period, etc. etc.

I'd do an injector service, run some high grade fuel in it, and if it's a manual, drive higher speeds in lower gears (i.e. 45 in second or third). That should help clean out the carbon buildup, which is likely causing it to not want to fire.

If it were the starter contacts, you'd have an intermittant spark, where it tries to start the first time, the second time or third it fails to crank period.

I'd recommend a tune-up as well, new plugs, plug wires, distributor cap. New stuff means better chance of firing up.

But look into the injector service, I just had a newer vw bug do that this morning, not want to start the first 4 or 5 turns, kinda dead, but fires afterwards. The injector service is what the mechanic told me, and explained everything I just did to me.

Answer 3

When you first want to start in the morning, turn on key, don't go to start. Open the hood and short the two large terminals on the start relay and see if it starts. You don't quite explain the problem. 4 or 5 turns on the switch, does this mean the engine is turning over or are you just getting a click or just nothing. If the engine is turning when you turn to start, but not starting, I would check the coolant temp sensor located near the thermostat. Perhaps a bad sensor or loose connection.

Answer 4

battery terminal wires really people? that might be the case if it didn't even attempt to start? sounds like your fuel injector. I have a way to check. turn your key to on but not ignition. you should hear it kinda make an electronical sound. do it 2 or 3 times the try to start it. if it fires right up there is your problem. go to store and get some fuel injector cleaner when your relatively close to out of gas fill up your tank and pore the hole bottle in. if you ain't got the money to fill it up the half a.bottle to.half a tank. kendergarden ****. don't expect it to fix as soon as you put it in. if it don't help after a day or two then it might be distributor or coil pack or plug wires.

Answer 5

If the engine turns over when you activate the starter and there's no problem there, then most likely it's the Coolant Temperature Sensor, which tells the computer the engine coolant temperature and from this the Computer regulates the amount of fuel the engine needs to start when it's cold. If you go to an auto parts store, they may be able to show you a picture.

R

Answer 6

It sounds like you have some skill. Take a test light and see if starter is getting 12 volts on initial startup. If it isn't suspect the ignition switch. That was a common failure on all of the GM's for those year models. That does sound like a tough one?

Answer 7

Could be the starter going out or the ignition switch but most likely the starter

Answer 8

YOU SHOULD GET THE VEHICLES COMPUTER SCANNED AND CHECK FOR ANY PROBLEMS AS WELL AS CODES AND THEN YOU WILL HAVE A GOOD IDEA ON WHAT THE PROBLEM TRULY IS.

TRY FINDING AN INDEPENDENT SHOP INSTEAD OF THE DEALER OR A CHAIN STORE BECAUSE YOU WILL BE OVERALL MORE PLEASED WITH THE FINDINGS AND THE SERVICE.

LEAVE IT THERE WITH THEM SO THAT THEY CAN FIND THE PROBLEM FOR YOU, IT WILL BE A LOT BETTER THAN JUST REPLACING PART AFTER PART AND NOT DOING ANY GOOD.

Answer 9

I had this problem with an s10 pickup. Turned out to be the distributor cap. When it warmed up the points in it expanded and it worked fine. When cool not so good.

Answer 10

.. sounds like your fuel pump is losing pressure over a period of time,therefor it needs to roll over a few times until its gets pressure built up..i have been dealing with that in my truck for about a year now, have you tried leaving ignition on for a couple of sec then rolling it over? it should pressurize pump