when tiling a bathroom floor whats the best way to get the cut around the sink and toilet?

Answer 1

You have 2 options

1) Take the toilet and sink out, tile, then put them back. Because both will now be higher, you might have to re-plumb some of the pipes.

2) Cut a piece of card to the same size of a tile and use as a template. Transfer onto tile and cut.

There are two ways to cut a curve on a tile.

1) Use an electric diamond saw bench.

2) If you have a good manual tile cutter (Rubi), place one tile glaze down and the one to cut on top of it. This allows you to move the tile about whilst you score it. Take the bottom one away and place the scored one in the breaking part and it should work.

(Depends how tight the curve is)

Answer 2

Definately take the toilet off then tile then put the toilet back on. If the sink can't be removed you will have to tile up to it and probably have to cut tiles to fit near the base. If the tile doesn't look right near the base you can put molding around the sink cabinet to hide the imperfections.

But definately remove the toilet.

Answer 3

If you don't want to or can't take them out, why not buy a tile profile gauge. You push it up against the shape of the sink and tiny little pins give you an exact shape of the item you are cutting around. Then place the gauge onto the tile, mark around the gauge and cut - simple no tricky cardboard templating and very easy to do.
Saves time and money - cheap to buy and they are for sale on screwfix.com

Answer 4

Remove them before you tile. Then, make sure your cuts make the tile cover enough of where they were sitting such that, when you replace them, they are sitting on the tile. You'll probably have to replace the wax ring where the toilet connects to the sewer drain, because the old one will be compressed to the lower height.

After the tile is installed and set, you replace the fixtures and caulk around where they sit on the tile. Use a flexible caulk (latex or silicone) as opposed to a tile grout. They come in consistencies that are gritty like grout and in all kinds of colors. But, because it's flexible, it won't crumble or crack due to the weight or thermal expansion/contraction between the floot and the fixture.

Answer 5

I'm not quite sure how to describe this... but I'll take a shot at it. lol

Trace the hole onto paper or cardboard. Trace that onto the tile. Using a wet saw or tile saw make several small cuts into the tile all along the space that needs to be removed. Break those out with pliers and use the saw again to even it out.

I hope that makes sense

Answer 6

I took my toilet up when we redid the tile, and set the toliet on top of the new tile. We used a tile cutter to cut the tile against the sink, and traced out the cuts onto cardboard first.

Answer 7

I've nly read SAL*UK.... but didn't need to read the other 12 plus answers. BEST is a relative word, but in your case, and IF the sink is a Pedastal type, or has some sort of support mechanism holding it, in addition to being secured at a wall, REMOVAL of the fixtures is the "BEST" method for Tile installations.

Steven Wolf

Answer 8

Take the sink and toilet out and tile underneath them!!

Alternatively, an electric tile cutter. Very precise and pretty easy to use.

Answer 9

It is a better job to lift the sink and toilet and tile underneath,

Answer 10

The trouble with taking the pan out and putting it back of top of new tiles it won't fit unless its a flexi pipe .If you don't want it out then as some of our friends are saying a good cardboard template cut out but the top suggestion is best