Laying ceramic tile?

Question

Hi! We are going to put ceramic tile in the kitchen and bathroom(floors). We've removed the lino, and have a few issues. There is old hardwood that is not in good shape, we will be putting a new wooden subfloor down. Also the floor is sloped, and my husband is planning on levelling it with floor patch. We have done a porch before, so know some basics, like starting in the centre and stuff. Are his plans okay? Also I have been hearing about something called ?cement backing, is this something we have to do? Also we didn't seal any grout, but have heard mention of this. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Answer 1

You probably dont need another wooden subfloor over your hardwood, that is, if it's solid. In fact, I would have left the lino if it was not loose and squishy. In general, most floors require a 1" thickness to be stable enough for tile. If your hardwood is 3/4", then putting down 1/4" or thicker duroc tile backer board should do the trick. If the floor is soft and spongy, then do the wood subfloor. You can put down the cement backer board and then spread cementatious levelling compound if needed. Or, level first, then backer board. Screw the cement board down using coarse thread screws and use a construction adhesive under it too for a super solid tiling surface. If you like, you can then mix thin set and using fiberglass tape, tape and trowel all of your seams before beginning your tiling. I have done that, and I have also tiled right over the cement board and never had issues, it's your call. I use superflex thin set mortar for all of my tiling and have had great luck. You can achieve some levelling with your thin set mortar. I have not seen much affect with grout sealants. I try to use darker grouts, or grouts that match the tile. Mopping with something like Murphy's oil soap seems to do the trick. You can mix your grout with a latex modifier, this is supposed to help seal it too. Get a stirring tool for your mortar and grout tht goes in a good electric corded drill. 1/4" notched trowel for thin set. For grout, rubber trowels and several grout sponges. Mix your thin set so that it is like wet mud, but stands up and holds it's shape when notched. Wet the back of your tiles by buttering a thin layer of thin set onto them before laying into the notched thinset mortar on the floor. Talk to real tile people, dont let people tell you to use grout in a tube, mastic etc. for ceramic tile jobs. Do it the way it's been done for thousands of years. Buy good kneepads, your gonna need them. Look at what your planned floor height will be and consider triming up door jams etc. with a trim saw before your start the job. Tiling is not rocket science and it gets easier with every job you do. If your gonna be doing a few jobs, get a real tile saw now. Harbor freight has a nice one for a couple hundred bucks, I love mine, should have bought it sooner.

Answer 2

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Answer 3

Your plans sound good so far. You will want to use the cement backer board, which you will lay on top of your subfloor. You will need to use an adhesive on the backer board and also screws. This will keep the grout from cracking and the tiles from breaking. As for the slope most bathrooms and kitchens have a slope to direct any water towards a certian direction in case there is a flood. But it will not hurt to level it out this will make laying the tile easier on you. As for the grout sealer I personally choose not to seal it because all of the dirt will make its way into the sealant and does not come clean. But it is completley up to you most would say to seal it.

Answer 4

you really should pull the vinyl up, even if it's a hassle, because it could buckle in the future and affect your tile work. Go to your home store and see if they have a solvent that will loosen the adhesive holding the vinyl down, then scrape it all up. Hopefully it will be concrete underneath and not another layer of vinyl (happened to us in a kitchen once). Clean it really well, then do your tiling. Be sure to use the correct adhesives and grouts. There is also a sealer you can use that will insure the grout never stains, something *she* will appreciate when she never has to get on the floor with a toothbrush to clean out the muck between the tiles. :) Good luck and happy holidays!

Answer 5

hi...yes cement backerboard is entirely necessary...ceramic tile should NEVER be installed on a wood subfloor..it will eventually pop and your tiles will crack...and you will be doing this project all over again...wood is too flexible...cement backerboard called Hardibacker...it comes in 1/2" or 1/4"...this is a very simple process...measure your square footage...LxW=Area....cement backer comes in 3x5 pieces...screw that into your wood subfloor...(screws every 6 inches) then install your tile from the center out.......after you tile 24 hrs later grout...then 24 hrs later seal the tile and grout...wwwoollaahh your done...EASY.. e mail if you have any other [e-mail]..please

Answer 6

You could use a leveling compound to get a good surface
allow to dry and keep it swept any tiny stone or chip can crack a tile I should consider using a good anti fungicide grout because fungus can grow under the sealant
Hope this helps Good luck

Answer 7

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Answer 8

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Answer 9

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Answer 10

I would definetly use a tile backer board. Plywood tends to shift and the grout joints will crack. See this website.