Two good answers here. As far as the first answer--what??????????.
Only thing I would add is that I check the porosity of the floor by putting a little water on it in several places to see how long it takes to absorb/if it absorbs.
If it absorbs quickly, I mix my thinset a tad wet, and wet sponge the area I'm setting to prevent a dry bond caused by the concrete sucking all the water out of the mortar.
P.S.
Wow, CowboyDoc is on a roll. This is the second question in a couple days where he has "corrected" everyone else (wrong both times).
1) I've laid ALL types of flooring since the 70s
2) If he READ the question bfore giving everyone a thumbs down, he may have noticed it asked about TILE!!!
Although there are vinyl tiles, when someone refers to tile, they are generally referring to ceramic, porcelain, slate, etc.
(I guess all us dummies assumed that was what this question was about) Probably a good thing for all of us that he's retired. (actually, as I said on the other answer, sounds like the kind of contractor that put a lot of money in my pocket)
P.P.S.
Just reread "doc's" answer - "lay your lino?" Linoleum has not been in regular use as a floor covering since BEFORE I got into the business in the late 70s
2007-09-09 17:47:56
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answer #1
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answered by Martin 7
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Rent a Square-Buff sander and buy about 10 sheets of the coarsest sandpaper pads...I think that #40 grit is available (the lower the grit number, the coarser it is), otherwise #50 or #60 grit will do.
Sanding the concrete does several good things: it will get old glue, crud, etc., off the floor; it helps to level the floor; and because you're using a coarse grit, you're scratching the surface enough to get the mortar to stick well to the floor and hold the tile in place.
Cement dust is BAD stuff to breathe: set up exhaust fans, making sure to either capture the dust or be sure that it's not going into your upstairs windows, up the stairs or your neighbor's windows or pool, etc. WEAR A FULL-FACE RESPIRATOR. A paper painter's mask just won't do. Have a ShopVac available to vacuum the completed floor: make sure that no dust or little pebbles stay behind, because that means your tiles won't stick or will crack.
Install the tile according to the mfr's instructions. Buy about 10% more tile than the square footage of the area to be tiled, to account for breakage, cuts, booboos, etc. Make sure the room and floor aren't cold: 60 or 65 degrees Fahrenheit is fine, but make sure it stays about that warm at night, too.
2007-09-09 17:18:54
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answer #2
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answered by Dept. of Redundancy Department 7
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I've laid vinyl flooring in Vegas for over thirty years, all cement floors, they don't have basements there. I have never heard of some of these ideas.
You don't have to "roughen up" the cement or "sand it" this is plain ridiculous.
I always used a sealer on the concrete after cleaning it, give it two coats. get the sealer from Home Depot, it's made for this. Use a good "Henry's" glue and lay your tile or lino. I'll guarantee you'll have a good set.
2007-09-09 23:46:27
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answer #3
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answered by cowboydoc 7
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concrete floor is really great for tile..no need for backer board .. just be sure the floor is mostly level and if there is a sealer on the concrete.. you should try to rough it up some.. but for the most part the point of level and clean is mainly your only concern.. need more help email me...emanon082264@yahoo.com
2007-09-09 17:02:59
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answer #4
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answered by emanon082264 2
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First you need to have friction on the concrete floor to do this you need to put little holes or punctures. Mix a cement/adhesive on the floor and put the tiles properly.
Note: Remove possbile air as this will crack the tiles.
2007-09-09 16:15:32
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answer #5
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answered by Melvin U M 2
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1- With floor grinder first make level floor
2- File all the cracks
3- For Tile Just apply grout and install the tiles
4- For hard wood flooring , First install insulation paper and then if you want use glue or if you do not want just install hard wood on top of the paper.
2007-09-09 18:04:12
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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