What is that grinding noise?!?

Question

I have a puegeot 106 Diesel, which is about 7 years old. For the past few weeks I've noticed a kind of clunking noise when I steer left and right (even when I'm stationary) and even with the engine turned off.

Also, for the past couple of weeks sometimes when I brake there is a grinding noise that seems to be coming from the wheel area, particularly if I'm braking when I'm turning left (this is what's really concerning me). I don't always get the braking noise but the clunking noise is there every time I use the car.

I know I'm absolutely pathetic and I should have taken it to a garage by now. I need my car for work though, so I need to know roughly how long I'm looking at it being off the road so that I can book some time off work to get it sorted. Are we talking a a few hours or days?

Thanks very much for the answers. Since I know absolutely nothing about mechanics I couldn't possibly choose a best answer. But thanks again to everyone who replied.

Answer 1

All your complaints would make me believe that the 'constant velocity joints' (CVJs) on your axles need to be replaced, except when you say that the clunking sound comes even with the car stationary and with the engine off.

Grinding noise while braking would come from the front brakes. The pads may have worn off to the metal and that could be the cause of the sound.

I suggest a check of the CVJs followed by the front brake discs and pads. The change of the CVJs and brake system repairs should not take more than 12-13 hours at a good workshop. Take a couple of days off, book your car into the workshop and enjoy driving once again, after the repairs.

Answer 2

Actually you gave a great description of the front end noise in your car. There are a few areas to consider looking at. Brake pads, brake caliper slider pins and complete tie-rod end and ball joint inspection.
If the pads are worn they tend to rattle inside the calipers. Occasionally they will scrape the rotors as you drive. Most disc brake pads have addable spring loaded wear indicators. That noise is is a screeching or scraping sound as the indicators actually touch the brake rotors.

A clunk sound is generally isolated by a complete front end alignment on floating surface plates. The person doing the alignment can easily detect excess ball-joint and tie-rod movement. New Moog or TRW ball joints run around $60.00 ea. The same brand tie-rod end $27.- $30.00 ea. During an alignment they will inspect the struts and strut bearings for normal or unusual movement.

Answer 3

Things to have inspected for this "clunking noise":

1. Brake inspection. (Not very likely but necessary to eliminate.)
2. Steering linkage. Possible tie rod or ball joint. (More likely.)
3. The outter constant velocity joints (CVJ's) assuming it is a front wheel drive. (More likely.)

I've never seen the upper strut bearings go bad on a car but it rarely happens and some new strut manufacturers sell the new strut assemblies with new bearings attached. Marketing gimmic more than anything. It would be more likely on 4WD that is off road a lot, not on a car driven on relatively smooth roads.

Most noise is related to wear and tear and on front wheel drive cars you will likely wear out the outter constant velocity joints before you wear out a tie rod or ball joint.

Many newer cars do not have grease fittings on the wear and tear parts like ball joints and tie rods so their sevice life will obviously be shorter than on an older car that has these joints lubricated on a regular basis. I still have the original suspension and steering linkage on my 1985 Chevy p'up and 1988 Cadillac.

Good Luck!

Answer 4

It looks like you might have a bad CV joint. Look under both front fenders to see if there is grease splattered anywhere. This could signify that your CV joints are leaking grease (which relates to my next point below). Also, look for something that looks like a rubber accordian (except it is round, not square) attached to the drive shaft of your front wheels. That is the rubber "boot" that protects and covers your CV joints (and holds the grease inside). If there are any cracks or splits in those boots, then that can damage your CV joints. A damaged CV joint will eventually snap. Once that happens, your car will not move anymore and will need to be towed to a mechanic. A mechanic should be able to fix a CV joint in less than a day.

Answer 5

Clunking noise stationary may be siezed front strut bearings, siezed tie rod ends or ball joints. Also sounds like your brake friction material is worn to the steel backing. Get it to a reputable repair shop and get an estimate.

Answer 6

If the noise is coming from the wheels, then better than in all probability the brake pads or drums decide for changing. If the noise is coming from the kit field or front diff the must be positioned on on the two of the two one in each of them.

Answer 7

Sounds like the rack and pinion are worn or the spline on the steering column are worn get it to the garage right away or you could find yourself doing 70mph with no steering

Answer 8

Your CV boot is probably torn. The easiest way to check is if there is grease on the inside of your rim. You will have to get the CV boot and CV joint replaced. The shop can usually do it in one day as long as they havbe the parts in stock.

Answer 9

Brake pads gone, metal chewing on your rotors which will have to be "turned" (machined) or replaced. If you like being able to stop, get it to a shop.