Go to the web site of the people who make them and read their excellent advice
http://www.fletcher-terry.com/hardware/fletcher/thick.shtml
the best suggestion I found there was to start the cut on the glass and run it off the glass to end it, then start breaking it from where you ran off.
The best suggestion I learned before was that if after scoring the glass you see a lot of little glass chips beside the path, you are pushing too hard and creating all kinds of little paths for the break to wander, don't push so hard. A long smooth even scratch - don't force it.
2007-09-08 11:58:48
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answer #1
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answered by Mike1942f 7
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dont go over the same cut twice
lay the glass on a FLAT surface on a mat or similar if possible
allow 1/8" under the measurment on the stright edge to allow for the glascutter this will give you your measurement
with steady pressure run the glasscutter down the glass you could oil the wheel of cutter with white spirit or paraffin take the straight edge and place it under the glass so the cut is lined up with the cut and the waste part is to the right if righthandedput a pressure on the waste side in the middle you will find it will break along the cut
dont be frightened as confidence is a big part
2007-09-07 08:17:58
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answer #2
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answered by 808fl 5
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Make sure the glass cutter wheel does not have any dents or imperfections. Put a couple of drops of heavy oil on the wheel of the glass cutter. Using a straight edge firmly score the glass ONCE. From beneath the glass gently tap along the score line. You will see the glass begin to separate. Tap the full length of the score line. Place the score line along a firm straight edge, such as the edge of a 1x4 or your work bench. Firmly snap the glass down. This should give you a clean break.
2007-09-06 07:10:23
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answer #3
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answered by big_mustache 6
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The metal of the wheel is very, very hard steel - harder than the glass, so it can score it or scratch it. That tiny little scratch weakens the glass at that point by over 50%, I'm told, so it tends to break there. It doesn't always break there, of course, but most of the time it will if you get a good score-line. The notches are there to grip the glass if you want to break off a narrow piece. Stick the edge of the glass into the notch, and use the glass cutter as a lever to break off the thin strip - hopefully, any way.
2016-05-22 18:29:16
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answer #4
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answered by cinda 3
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If you have gone over the score line more than once,then throw the glass cutter away and get a new one.Try to keep the cutter at the same angle all the time.Make a complete score (edge to edge).Try a little white sprit on the glass where you are going to score,Keep a constant preasure on the cutter,and practice makes perfect.Good luck.
2007-09-07 22:10:06
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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it is tricky but not that hard. practice on small pieces to get the feel of how much pressure you'll need. use a straight edge if you can. oil the wheel on the cutter. i don't know what this tape thing is everyones talking about. cut it on a very flat surface or it will run(crack) before you even finish scoring. i like to have the edge off the table a little then grab the edge on both sides of the score and lift up or flex the glass and it'll go.
2007-09-06 07:12:05
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answer #6
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answered by chris h 3
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I have always found it best to use some oil on the cutter when etching..Use a straight edge and don't worry how much oil you use..Etch the glass with enough pressure to get a good deep cut..Let the cut edge hong over the edge about 1/4 to 1/2 inch and with a gloved hand,snap it when a good downward snap..It may take some practice but you will succeed..
2007-09-06 05:57:31
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answer #7
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answered by john p 2
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You need to lubricate the cutter with cutting oil, kerosene, or mineral oil... just about anything lightweight will do.
Make your cut in one, long, firm push at medium speed starting at one edge of the glass and going to the other edge of the glass, right off the piece. Don't saw or attempt to correct a miscut before you break your glass.
When the blade is cutting correctly, you'll hear a sound somewhere between a zing and a zip.
When you're done cutting, turn the glass over and tap along the cutline with the ball on the back of the cutter, or with something that's sort of heavy and has a rounded tip... back of a table knife can be good. Turn the glass back over.
If this is a straight cut, put the glass on the edge of a table with a straight (not radiused) table edge, with the cutline right at the edge of the table. Use one hand to anchor the glass to the table, and with the other hand, pull out (away from the table) and down. That should give you a clean break. Some folks do better breaking glass score side down... try that, too.
If you're going for a curved cut (and tight curves are very difficult for a beginner!), lay your scored and tapped glass out on a table.
Now look at your hands... make a fist with your knuckles going straight up and down, and the thumb sticking out on top, pointing away from your body. Looks like a little kid ready to fight. That's the grip you're going to use to break the glass. To do it,
make two fists, and use the main portion of the fist to support
the glass right next to the score line, clamping down with your
thumbs so the glass is held securely in both hands. Keep those fingers curled in. Pull out and rotate your hands outwards
as you're pulling -- you're going from your fists oriented like
|| to \/ The glass should break along your score.
Beginners *always* need a little practice. Big pieces of glass are generally harder to cut than say, 8x10" pieces. Mirror and
plate glass are very difficult to cut. Old glass tends not to cut cleanly. Coated glass tends not to cut cleanly. Nicked up cutter blades (from banging around in a toolbox or drawer) don't cut cleanly.
IMO, the best cutters are the carbide cutters sold for stained glass work... they usually look like marking pens or have a pistol handle and hold cutting oil -- the $2-5 hardware store ones that come on cards are often not easy to use and not of particularly good quality.
Hardware stores that replace window and picture frame glass are sometimes willing to give you the broken glass they've removed for practice cuts.
Sharp edges should be smoothed before handling, if at all possible. Rubber gloves are not a bad idea for some folks breaking out score lines... gives them a better grip. But cutting glass is more about guile than brute strength.
2007-09-06 06:17:09
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answer #8
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answered by Anonymous
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Glass cutting is an art,if you went to apply for a job for glazing,it would come under'skilled labour'. I have tried it a couple of times and succeeded once;you have to be patient and keep cool,and you will need some practice. You will need a long strip of wood with a straight edge. Hold the wood against the ink line firmly then make your cut,if it's thick glass,cut again. Turn the glass over and repeat then snap it off. Practice and you will succeed.
2007-09-06 06:20:54
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answer #9
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answered by ? 7
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You need confidence to cut glass. You're probably not pressing down hard enough. When you've scored the glass, put a matchstick under each end of the cut and press down either side of one of them.
2007-09-06 05:59:16
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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