I have an auto. 1990 chevy camaro, I swapped the FI 305 for a carb. 350. All of the following problems have been getting worse and worse over time. My car will stall out and die while at idle after sitting for more than about 2 min. Car will stall and die while I'm driving down the road. Sluggish acceleration, a loss of power, occasionally briefly smell something weird but not often, catalytic converter seems hotter than it should be but not so hot that its glowing, engine running a little hotter than it should. Today it got so bad that it was constantly stalling out and dieing no matter what I did, and at one point I almost couldn't get it to start again, so once it finally started I had to go park it somewhere cause it was so unreliable. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
2007-09-06 02:46:54 · 10 answers · asked by nick 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
Thats the dumbist thing I've heard today. You removed a fuel injected engine and installed a carbed one.....What did you do with all the sensors that were in the 305? Was the carbed engine computerized? Are you still running the FI fuel pump? If so...theres your problem. I say you deserve all the problems you have. Good luck with it>
2007-09-06 03:25:34 · answer #1 · answered by Ron B 6 · 0⤊ 1⤋
sounds typical of a Chevy 350. I had a "77 and an 81" both with the 350. Great cars, hard to kill so I know the problem is in the fuel lines. Check the fuel filter under the drivers side first. When you run a different motor it has a tendency to pick up a air pocket when you change lines. Second check the fuel filter near the carb, this one often gets over looked as does the air filters. Have the motor checked for fuel pressure hopefully that might help you good luck...
2007-09-09 17:52:10 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Something caused the converter to plug up which is the end result of a carburetor problem. If it's a Holley check the power valves and floats (heavy) full of fuel or high float level.
If you have a mechanical secondary carburetor get rid of it and bolt on a 650 vacuum secondary center hung float carb. Throttle response will be much better and you'll not be constantly dumping raw accelerator pump fuel into the intake manifold. Unburned gas will ruin a converter in no time at all. I'll bet your plugs are brown or black. No ignition system in the world can fire poor fuel mixtures under 13-1.
Fix the fuel problem before investing in a new converter.
Mechanical secondary carburetors only work if you have a standard transmission with super low rear end gearing or for drag or oval track use.
2007-09-06 03:07:58 · answer #3 · answered by Country Boy 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
My daughter drove her first car, a 1982 Toyota Corolla, a year with a converter so plugged it could hardly be blown through at the end... like a couple of soda straws. Didn't seem to hurt the car any, but she didn't drive it on the freeway. The most noticable characteristic was that beyond about half throttle opening the throttle more just seemed to reduce power a bit. I doubt your converter is plugged - ten years is awfully early for that sort of trouble. In addition, the check engine light should still be on for catalyst efficiency (P0420) - plugged converters don't function well at all. There is a test for it, though, which I found in the Haynes manual for the 1990-1993 Honda Accord. Connect a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and note the manifold vacuum. Open the throttle to about 2000 rpm for a few seconds to push a lot of exhaust out of the engine and watch the gauge as you release the throttle. The reading should return to very nearly the original reading within two seconds. If it returns slowly or appears to "hang" before returning that is a good indication the exhaust is restricted - the idling engine is not able to pump more exhaust through until the pressure dissipates.
2016-05-22 08:40:26 · answer #4 · answered by ? 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Well, the symptoms you are describing certainly point to a plugged up exhaust system, and the catalytic converter is usually the first place that fails and clogs things up. If the weird smell is similar to rotten eggs, that would put the frosting on the cake and make if 100% sure it's the catalytic converter.
Unfortunately they aren't cheap parts, but the choices are to have it done, or not drive since it will keep getting worse.
2007-09-06 02:53:54 · answer #5 · answered by oklatom 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Might want to check it out. If the cats are clogged it will cause the car to die and eventually not run at all.
To test it, attatch a balloon or condom or something to the tailpipe(s) and see if it inflates. If the cat is clogged, nothing will come out of the pipe to inflate the balloon.
2007-09-06 02:51:59 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋
i would disconect the converter and run the engine at home not on the road youi did notsay how it acted just sitting in park
2007-09-06 02:55:59 · answer #7 · answered by ford f 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
the quickest way to find out would be to unhook the exhaust at the manifold and take it for a drive and see if you simtoms are gone
2007-09-06 03:07:09 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Engines are like pumps, they have to move air. If that is obstructed, you will get all the symptoms you are talking about.
2007-09-06 02:57:23 · answer #9 · answered by a2z_alterego 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
JUST DISCONNECT THE EXHAUST AND RUN THE VEHICLE AND SEE IF IT CHANGES.
2007-09-10 01:02:53 · answer #10 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋