i am going 2 breed beta fish....?

Question

k so im going 2 breed betas i need help on facts such as how 2 breed betas keeping them healthy and so on. i had lots of experence with beta fish but im going 2 take it 2 the next lvl.

Answer 1

thats good, but how much do you know? breeding bettas isnt as easy as going and buying a female and a male and dumping them together.

It takes alot of research...

you will need to condition them for 2 weeks. on highly fatty foods.

You cant just add them together, you must condition. Thats a concept that alot of beginner breeders dont understand and they usually always fail.

do you have resources? you will need a 55 gallon to raise the fry, along with sponge filters, the breeding tank, heater, cups etc..

its one thing to spawn bettas, its another to raise the fry. You will need to get a brine shrimp hatcher, for the babies.

Setting up the tank is important. always bare bottom with warm water with no water movement.

Allow the female to be in a cup so she can be seen without being attacked. Allow the male to build the nest before breeding.... take the female out... etc.. all basic stuff.

You need more research, to me it doesnt show that you have alot of experenice as it is betta splendens, not beta.

Research is key, look at hundreds of sites, read about 5 books and then maybe you can try. Breeding fishes isnt a right and it should be considered a previgle, anyone can get a pair but those who actually want to do it for the right reasons and willing to learn and be patient will actually breed them with success.

I dont want to come off as an a... but alot of fishkeepers what to breed bettas NOW and dont want to wait or take the time to actually learn a thing or two...

Betta sites like bettatalk etc.. will help with breeding. My betta site is more than welcomed for you to look at for betta help and breeding .. http://www.bcaquatics.com

Answer 2

Hi ! If you decide to breed your betta, you need 1 male and 1 female.... as for the breeding time, you just need to wait till the male betta to make bubble nest ! after that, you can just leave the female betta with the male betta.... they first will began to start a chase, the chase will last up to 10-20 minutes ! If the male keep attacking the female, you just need to get the female out to another tank to rest ! And for breeding, you need a 5 gallon tank, with no gravel or stones inside the tank, and more plants inside the tank to let the female betta fish to hide ! But my advice is not to breed, because they are so troublesome ! you need to prepare a lot of things to breed !

Answer 3

hmm well you need a boy and a girl.. lol i have a blue boy beta.. i always lked betas.. there sexy lol but the male will make bubble at the top of the water to put the babys in after they are made just let it happen and good luck! ive seen baby betas and they are adorable! they are so sexy

Answer 4

First of all you need to do some research and patience

But the basic things you will need are
A betta pair of course
10 gallon tank with 6 inch of conditioned water with your male betta in it
a heater
a spongefilter
live plants for the female to hide when spawning them
a glass where your put your female in and put into your 10 gallon tank for your male to see
a styrophoam cup or similar
a separate tank for your male, after the fry is free swimming
outgrow tank
lots of cups to separate the young


you also need to condition your pair for at least 2 weeks before attempting to bread them

here is a link, where everything is discribed in detail including pics
http://fishlesscycling.com/articles/breeding_bettas.html



Hope that helps
Good luck


EB

Answer 5

i found this article for you i hope it helps

Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta Splendens)

Scientific Name: Betta Splendens
Other Names: Betta Family: Belontiidae
Origin: Cambodia, Thailand
Adult Size: 3 inches (7 cm)
Social: Males cannot be kept together
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Tank Level: Top dweller
Minimum Tank Size: 3 gallon
Diet: Live foods preferable, will eat flakes and frozen foods
Breeding: Egglayer - bubblenest
Care: Easy to Intermediate
pH: 6.8 - 7.4
Hardenss: up to 20 dGH
Temperature: 75-86 F (24-30 C)

Description: The brilliant coloration, and long flowing fins of the Betta
make it one of the most well known of aquarium fish. Colors range from red
to blue to white. Females are not as highly colored, and have much shorter
fins. A well conditioned breeding female will often display horizontal
stripes.
Habitat/Care: Bettas are one of the most recognized, most colorful, and
often most controversial fish in the freshwater hobby. Debates range on
about the appropriateness of keeping them in small bowls. To fully
understand their needs it is important to become familiar with their
native habitat. Bettas originate in the shallow waters in Thailand
(formerly called Siam, hence their name), Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam,
and parts of China. They proliferate rice paddies, shallow ponds, and even
slow moving streams.
Although many fish keepers are aware that Bettas come from shallow waters,
a key factor that is often overlooked is the water temperature. These
countries are tropical, which means the water temperature is quite warm -
often reaching into the 80's. Bettas thrive on heat, and will become
increasingly listless when the water temperature falls below 75 degrees F.
Water temperature is perhaps the biggest argument against keeping a betta
in a tiny bowl (which cannot readily be heat controlled).
Even though Bettas do well in waters low in dissolved oxygen, that does
not mean they require less oxygen than other fish. Bettas have a special
respiratory organ that allows them to breath air directly from the
surface. In fact they inherently must do so. In experiments where the
labyrinth organ was removed, the fish died from suffocation even though
the water was saturated with oxygen. For this reason, Bettas must have
access to the water surface to breath air directly from the atmosphere.
Optimally the water for keeping healthy Bettas should be soft, warm, with
a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Water movement should be kept to a
minimum, which means that power filters and powerheads are not suitable.
Bettas may be kept in a community tank as long as the water conditions are
met, and if no aggressive or fin-nipping fish are present. However, only
one male may be kept in each aquarium, unless they are separated by a
barrier.
The use of plastic boxes that hang inside the aquarium are a suitable
option for keeping more than one betta in a tank, or for keeping them in a
tank with fish that might nip their fins. Females will generally not fight
with each other, and may be kept in the same tank.
NOTE: Selling a betta in a vase with a Peace Lily has become in vogue.
However, a flower vase is not a suitable environment for the betta. For
more information check the additional information links to the right.
Diet: In nature Bettas subsist almost exclusively on insects and insect
larvae. They are built with an upturned mouth that is well suited to
snatching any hapless insect that might fall into the water. Internally
their digestive system is geared for meat, having a much shorter
alimentary track than vegetarian fish. For this reason, live foods are the
ideal diet for the betta, however they will adapt to eating flake foods
and frozen and freeze dried foods.
Brine shrimp, Daphnia, plankton, tubifex, glassworms, and beef heart, are
all excellent options that may be found frozen or freeze dried. If flake
food is fed, it should be supplemented with frozen and freeze-dried foods,
and if possible live foods.
Breeding
Bettas have a fairly short lifespan, and are most successful as breeders
when they under a year old (bettas in pet shops are usually at least six
months old). They breed in bubblenests and do not require a large tank or
special equipment.
Most breeders find that a bare bottomed tank of roughly ten gallons works
well, although smaller tanks are also suitable.Ideally the fish should be
conditioned prior to breeding, by feeding them a diet of live foods. The
water should be at a pH of about 7.0, and temperature around 80 or
slightly above.
The male will blow an elaborate bubble nest when he is ready to spawn. The
female should be provided with a hiding place, as males may become
aggressive during courtship. Even with a hiding place, it is common for
the female to lose a few scales or have their fins frayed during spawning.
When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and
begin circling each other under the bubblenest. The male will wrap himself
around the female who has turned on her back. As she expels the eggs, they
are fertilized and begin to sink. The male will scoop up the eggs and spit
them into the nest. From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is
advisable to remove the female, as the male may become aggressive towards
her as he tends his young.
The male will continue to tend the bubblenest, spitting eggs that fall out
back into the nest. In one to two days the eggs will hatch, and the fry
will be visible hanging in the bubblenest with their tails pointing
downward. They will feed off their yolk sack for another thirty six hours,
during which time the male will continue to pick up any fry that fall out
of the nest. The male should be removed within two days after the fry
hatch, as they may eat the young once they are free swimming. The fry
should be fed a couple of feedings daily of baby brine shrimp or very fine
baby food. Tetra makes a dry mixture specifically for egglaying fish, and
many pet shops carry frozen baby brine shrimp. Take care not to overfeed,
as the uneaten food will foul the water and can quickly prove lethal to
the fry.

Answer 6

Spawning bettas is an enormous responsibility and you must be prepared to attempt it several ways. This article is to ensure that everyone who reads it becomes informed of both the perils and necessities of spawning bettas and rearing their young.

Motivation
This is the most important factor before you begin to breed bettas. Your motivation should not be to make money (which breeders rarely do considering the expenses) or to “experiment”. The motivation for betta breeders is to have fun while bettering the species of Betta Splendens. Any other underlying desires will be the destruction of your achievements, as you will become completely discouraged in your efforts.

Knowledge Is the Key to Success
In order to even consider breeding bettas, you must be prepared to research…a lot! Each breeder has their own technique that is successful to them, so it is best to check all of the possible sources that you can before you decide on an approach to spawning. Techniques are based on what works for breeders, their bettas, and is based on experience. Researching never gets old, and I often review the basic process of spawning weekly. Learning all that you possible can ensures that you will know how to handle even the most unique of circumstances that may surprise you.

Financial Obligations
When you decide to venture into the betta-breeding world, you make a financial commitment to your fish. Buying the best conditioning and fry foods, healthy pairs (in order to improve the species), and medications is very important. Make sure you buy all of your supplies before you spawn your pairs. Although you can be smart with your money (seeking out deals, ect), don’t try to cut corners; quality (not necessarily expensive) items can make a huge difference in the quality of a spawn.

Think Ahead
You must always think ahead when you attempt to spawn bettas. They can have between 1-500 surviving fry, all of which may need to be separated. Five hundred male fry means 500 jars. You must have a way to keep them at a reasonable temperature (at least 70*F), and room for each one. Also, before you have fry, make sure you have pet stores and homes lined up. Quality bettas are easily sold off of the internet, while lesser quality ones can be left at pet stores. You have to keep in mind that most pet stores will not pay for bettas, so don’t plan on making a profit off of pet stores unless you discuss your plans with them first. Again, make sure you have all of the supplies you need for emergencies. Another thing to think about is that fry foods must be allotted a few weeks in order to grow to a sufficient production rate that will feed hundreds of fry. The pair must also be fed high quality foods for 2 weeks prior to spawning, and they should be isolated from seeing any other fish. This is called conditioning which gets them ready for spawning. At this time the water must also be kept very clean.

Spawning Tank Set-Up Supplies
10 gallon aquarium, full hood with lights, submersible heater, plants (fake or real, although real is better), salt, Aquari-Sol, Stress Zyme (to help ease the cycling process), dechlorinator, sponge/corner filter, thermometer, Styrofoam cup cut in half lengthwise, and glass chimney. Required fry foods: microworms/vinegar eels and live baby brine shrimp eggs (you must create a hatchery and hatch them out)

1. Fill the tank with about 5 inches of water (treated with the correct amount of salt, dechlorinator, Stress Zyme, and Aquari-Sol). Place the filter in the back left corner and turn it off. It will be used to slowly circulate the water and keep fry off the bottom of the tank when they become free swimming. Place the plants on the left side of the aquarium, and the chimney marking the halfway point. Tape the Styrofoam cup to the right front corner. This will be used to protect the male’s bubble nest. Place the heater in the middle of the back of the aquarium, and set to 80*F. Place the thermometer in the left front corner. Put the hood on, turn on the lights (they will be left on until the fry are 2 weeks old), and plug in the heater when finished.
2. After the temperature is stable (if you did not use dechlorinator, wait about 24 hours for chlorine/chloramines to evaporate from the water), add the male to the tank. Let him get used to the tank for several hours, if not a day. Then place the female in the glass chimney. This will allow the pair to see each other, but to be separated. This gives the male time to build a bubble nest (which houses the fry until they are free swimming) under the Styrofoam cup (you can also use bubble wrap to shelter the nest). When the male completes the nest, and the female shows signs of readiness (swims head down, vertical stripes appear, belly is round with eggs), lift the chimney so she can be with the male.
3. The male and female nip and flare at each other (if either severely wounds the other, remove and do not continue with the spawn). He’ll continue to build and chase her away from the nest, until they finally spawn. At this time he embraces – squeezes – the eggs out of her. The fallen eggs are then picked up by the male (and also female sometimes) and placed in the nest. Let them continue until no more eggs are released and he chases her away from the nest and won’t let her return.
4. Remove the female gently, so the eggs are not knocked out of the nest. Even if they fall, the male will continue to put them back and will often move them around to prevent them from getting fungus. Take good care of the female for a week, like you would be conditioning her. The male will take care of the fry until they hatch (after 24-36 hours) and become free swimming (after 48-72 hours). When they are all swimming, remove the male and treat him well like the female. Do not attempt to spawn them for a few weeks, and then begin the conditioning process if you want to spawn them again.

Rearing the Fry

Warning! The following is a basic technique to rearing fry. You must accommodate the amount of food being fed to the size of your spawn. Do not attempt to spawn without a mature culture of microworms/vinegar eels or without the knowledge of hatching baby brine shrimp. The post will not explain how to culture these foods, or how to harvest vinegar eels and baby brine shrimp (BBS). Research this independently or PM me for more information on live foods.

1. On day 2, the fry have eaten up all of their food from their eggs, and you must feed them their first meal. You only need either microworms of vinegar eels, but can feed both. Microworms are by far the easiest to culture, harvest, and feed. You only scrape up enough to fit on the tip of a toothpick and swish it in the water. For vinegar eels, suction up a small amount of rinsed vinegar eels in a eye dropper and swish them around the tank. Feed this for about a week, and then introduce BBS. Rinse the BBS well also and feed as much as the microworms and vinegar eels. Over feeding will foul the water, so it is best to start off with small amounts, and add more than to add too much. Alternate the foods at each feeding (feed 2-3 times a day). Turn the corner filter on very slow (only a couple bubbles per minute), you may need to purchase a gang valve in order to control the flow.
2. After two weeks, increase the flow of the filter. You should know how strong the fry are at swimming, and what they can handle. At this time you can also perform the first cleaning. Put nylon over a siphon to prevent fry from being sucked up. Vacuum the bottom gently, and make sure the replacement water is the exact same temperature (80*F). Allow the clean water to trickle into the tank gently. Check the dirty water for fry, and return them. I use a turkey baster to suck them up and return them. You can now turn the lights off the lights at night, but leave on during feedings. Clean the tank as necessary, preferably once every day or two.
3. As the fry gain color and mature, watch out for aggressive behavior. Jar those that are aggressive, keeping the temperature at least at 70*F (try to keep it as close to 80 as possible, as they will grow better/faster) and the water clean. Quart jars should be cleaned every 2-3 days. After about a month, you can stop with microworms and introduce finely crushed dry foods. Make sure they are eating dry foods before removing all sources of live foods later on. You should be able to tell which foods are small enough for them to eat.
4. At 1.5- 2 months, continue to jar all noticeable males and aggressive fish. To sex them, males have longer fins and more pointed anal fins. Females have shorter bodies/fins, ovipositors, and often, round bellies (be sure they aren’t just well-fed males!). They also have more square anal fins. The temperature can now be lowered to 75*F gradually, and dry foods should be a main source of diet. Prepare the fish to be sold, as they are reaching prime breeding age, which will allow them to be easily sold.