When installing a solid wood floor over concrete you must:
a: install a layer of visqueen(thick, plastic sheeting) over the concrete
b: install plywood over visqueen
c: Install felt paper over plywood
d: If 3/4" solid, nail to plywood. If 5/16" or 7/16" solid, glue using a urethane adhesive, such as Bostik's Best.
Please do not try to glue a 3/4" solid, I've never seen it work successfully for an extended period of time.
The nature of a solid wood floor is to want to soak up moisture...the above steps will prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the concrete. Don't forget to acclimate your solid wood for at least one week, but preferably two!
2007-09-03 01:44:01
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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This is how I'd recommend it, but it will matter if you can deal with raising the floor height. First, a vapor barrier. Then lay 2x4s down flat 16" on center and attach however you want, I like tapcons. At this point, you can be shimming the "joists" if there are noticeable dips in the floor. 1 1/2" rigid insulation is cut to lay in between the 2x4s and 3/4" plywood on the "joists". Now you're ready for the hardwood. This method allow for structural support, leveling, solid nailing, and insulation, however it add 3" to the floor and is not always possible. If you have to leave out the 2x4/insulation layer, be sure the plywood is securely tapcon-ed to the concrete and shim wherever possible.
2007-09-03 03:24:08
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answer #2
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answered by jason m 3
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Make sure it is fairly level, or your wood will bough. If it is not get some levelling compound , it is easy to do!!
You need to put down some foam (comes in long strips).
Also it is important, if you are doing a long length i.e. from sitting room to hall, you need to leave room for the wood to expand. To do this, place a metal strip at the doorway. When cutting the flooring leave about 3cm before it reaches the strip. Then the same on the other side, and continue on. If the flooring will slide under your skirting, that is even better. You wont need to take it off. If it does, then remember to leave that 3cm gap.
Start off in the middle of the floor and work to the right, then to the left. To give it a good finish, do one strip in the middle of the floor, then cut a piece in half and continue from where you started-to the right of the first piece you placed, to give it a jagged look.
Also tack in beading when you are finished to give it a better look.
Good luck with it.
2007-09-02 23:47:07
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answer #3
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answered by Gracie 2
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I just did it to my place we have a concrete slab first of all I recommend that you use a lament flooring because it is made for concrete you still have 1/2inc of hard wood and they make it in both prefinished and in raw wood. But if you still want to here is how I did it to my own house and it turned out great. First I put down 3mil plastic on the concrete slab then I put furring strips down ( 1x3 ) I nailed them down with a "Ram Set" it made it easy and faster. Then I put liquid nail down under 3/4inc tong and grove plywood and I nailed the plywood down with a nomadic nailer. After that I nailed my floors on top its been two years and the floors still look great!
2007-09-03 02:56:17
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answer #4
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answered by john 1
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Also remember to lay down a layer of plastic so the moisture coming up thru the concrete does not get to your new floor.
2007-09-03 00:40:47
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answer #5
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answered by spacedude4 5
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rip out skirting's. place cushioning material on concrete. lay flooring. re-fix or add new skirting to trap boarding.
2007-09-02 23:30:21
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answer #6
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answered by andyman 3
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This does everything you need.
http://www.elastilon.com/
2007-09-03 02:05:40
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answer #7
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answered by jayktee96 7
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