My GARAGE DOOR won't open?

Question

My garage door use to open when I would push the button once. This was the case for both the button near my door to my garage and my remote when I would press it once the door would continue to open until fully opened. Now I have to hold down my button the whole time to get the door to open fully. If I let go of the button at all the door will stop working and the door will begin to slide back until closed. This happens when I use the hardwired button near my garage door and the remote. I have to hold down the button on the remote the whole time too in order for the door to open. What is wrong? Is it easy to fix?

Answer 1

sounds like a sensor issue.stand in the garage and make sure they both have little green or lights on and are active.then look to see if they are facing each other of if one or both are out of alignment.Third clean the lenses.If the problem still exists you probably need a new sensor.But make sure the other opening devises do the same.like the key pad and remotes.if they work properly and its just the one switch then your issue is the switch.

Answer 2

As with all mechanical components in a home, an automatic opener requires periodic maintenance and frequent testing to ensure safe and efficient operation.

One of the best resources for garage-door maintenance is the owner's manual. Lubrication requirements and adjustment details are found in it. If you don't have one, you can usually order a replacement copy by contacting an installing dealer or the manufacturer. Some even make manuals available on the Internet. All you'll need is the brand and model number.

A visual inspection of the garage-door springs, cables, rollers and other door hardware is how to begin. Look for signs of wear and frayed or broken parts. Most minor repairs such as roller replacement can be done by a do-it-yourselfer, while more complicated tasks should be handled by a qualified garage-door service technician. The springs and related hardware are under high tension and can cause severe injury when handled improperly.

Rollers, springs, hinges and tracks require periodic lubrication. Use spray silicone, lightweight household oil or white lithium grease in accordance with the instructions in your manual.

Periodically test the balance of the door. Start with the door closed. Disconnect the automatic opener release mechanism so the door can be operated by hand. The door should lift smoothly and with little resistance. It should stay open about three to four feet above the floor. If it doesn't, it is out of balance and should be adjusted by a professional. In addition to extending its life, monthly inspection and testing of the automatic opener can prevent serious injuries and property damage. Allowing children to play with or use garage-door opener controls is dangerous and can lead to tragedy. A few simple precautions can protect your family and friends from potential harm.

Never stand or walk under a moving door. Don't let children play "beat the door." Keep transmitters and remote controls out of reach of children, and teach them that they are not toys. The push-button wall control should be out of reach of children (at least five feet from the floor) and away from all moving parts. The button should be mounted where one can clearly see the door in full operation.

Test the force setting of the opener by holding up the bottom of the door as it closes. If the door does not reverse readily, the force is excessive and needs adjusting. The owner's manual will explain how to adjust the force sensitivity. To avoid entrapment, perform the one-inch reversing test after any repairs or adjustments are made to the garage door or opener. Do this by placing a two by four block of wood flat on the floor in the door's path before activating the door. If the door fails to stop immediately and reverse when it strikes the wood, disconnect the opener and use the door manually until the system can be repaired or replaced.

Since April, 1982, federal law has required that a closing garage door that is operated by an automatic opener must reverse off of a two-inch block.

Even with the safety improvements resulting from this legislation, injuries continue to occur and safety is still an issue. Thus, a new law, enacted in 1993, requires that a garage door opener must be equipped with a monitored non-contact safety reversing device or safety edge that will stop and reverse a closing garage door.

An example of such a safety device is an electronic beam sensor which is installed at either side of the door opening and, which, when broken, will cause the door to stop and reverse itself.

A second safety feature is a pressure-sensitive electronic rubber strip that attaches to the bottom of the door where it makes contact with the floor. Just as with the beam sensor, when engaged, this safety edge will cause the door to stop and reverse itself avoiding injury or damage to property.

Some common garage-door opener problems and their solutions:


If an opener raises but won't close the door, the safety beam sensor might be faulty, misaligned or unplugged.

An opener that operates by remote control but not by the wall switch is the sign of a short in the wiring or a loose connection at the switch.

A remote control that doesn't work might be something as simple as a weak or dead transmitter battery, an antenna wire on the opener that is not properly exposed or a bad transmitter.

If the opener is operating, but the door doesn't open, it might be due to a worn gear or chain-drive sprocket, a broken chain or the door being disengaged from the operator.

An opener that operates by itself can be caused by a faulty transmitter, a short in the wall switch, a faulty circuit board or a stray signal - the latter being rare.

If the remote control will operate the door only when 25 feet away or less, the battery in the remote might be weak or the signal poor.

A door that reverses while closing or that doesn't completely open or close is usually obstructed or binding. This condition can also be caused when open limit or sensitivity is set wrong.

A straining opener usually occurs when safety reversing is activated or the close limit is set improperly.

Answer 3

I haven't looked at one in years, but the older ones had a latching relay that keep the motor energized until it hit the opposite limit switch. However, unless it's at least 10 years old, it probably has a circuit board in it. Most are simple to figure out, if you understand circuitry.

Unplug it and see if you can figure it out. Or, you can call an electrician, who is going to charge you about 1/2 of what a new one cost. You could take the motor section to an electrical repair shop or electrical contractor who has a shop and have it fixed for about $25, if it's something simple. If it's the circuit board, you probably be out $100.

Answer 4

First try cleaning the sensors , If this does not work you may have to get a G.Door repairman out to look at it.

Answer 5

Invest in another Garage Door opener, it's run it's course (it happens with overuse).

Answer 6

check that the sensors are correctly aligned they may have been bumped
or one may be blocked with insect debris or dirt or something else
good luck

Answer 7

Have you checked the torsion spring for the door?

http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm