How can I tell if my fuel pump is bad?

Question

I have a 2002 Ford Escape and for about three days last week it would not start properly. In the morning it took about five tries to start it. It also took many tries in the afternoon after work. It doesn't make a clicking sound, it just sounds like it wants to start but it won't. My battery is fine and I've been told it's not the starter or spark plugs. If I try to start it after driving it a couple of hours before it will be fine. I put fuel injector cleaner in it last week and it was fine that whole time. Yesterday it started messing up again.

Answer 1

First, if the vehicle is still under warranty, then take it to a Ford dealer for an examination.

Second, if you were told that it isn't the starter or spark plugs, both of which require some mechanical knowledge and close-up examination, why couldn't that presumably knowledgeable person diagnose the problem???

Third, why do you suspect the fuel pump? A bad fuel pump typically would cause very rough driving, which you did not mention. If you are able to run "a couple of hours" without incident, then it's not the fuel pump.

Fourth, "injector cleaner" (along with any alleged cleaning fluid for any other part of your car, other than the windshield washer fluid, of course!) is very rarely needed these days, and it will only last for one tank full (folks think that if they fill the tank, then add the "cleaner" fluid, then fill it up when it gets half-empty, that the fluid will "stay" in the tank at full-strength, but, unfortunately, it will only be about half as strong, if that).

************* WARNING ****************
The following paragraph discusses the battery, alternator, and relevant fluids and connections.

Working on ANY electrical system - - car or otherwise - - is potentially DANGEROUS, even if you're "just" cleaning the battery terminals. If you don't know what you're doing, then find someone who does; it isn't worth losing your life or eyesight, or getting burned from sparks or battery acid.
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Fifth, I'm assuming that you (or someone else) checked your battery with a voltmeter, and checked that both terminals (the things sticking out of the battery which are connected to cables) are clean and free of white or green corrosion (you might want to check the other end of the battery cables, where they are attached to the vehicle, itself, but that is rarely necessary). Also check that the alternator connections are fully attached. Unfortunately, even "dead" batteries can register 12 volts; 13 volts is ideal when the engine is running (it may be as high as 14, which, for most vehicles, is fine; higher voltages are needed to keep the battery charged; more on that in a moment). To properly test the battery, make sure that the engine and all the appliances (radio, lights, A/C, wipers, windows, etc, etc, etc) are turned OFF. Then, check the voltage at the battery; it should be at least 12.5 volts. Then, turn ON the engine AND as many appliances as you can, then check the battery (with the engine and appliances running); ideally, the battery should read at least 13 volts, which indicates that the alternator is doing its job, keeping the battery "healthy" and charged. If the battery reads more than 15 volts, with the engine on or off, then that *could* be the sign of a different, potentially dangerous, overcharging problem, but that wouldn't cause the problems you're having. You could also check the amperage, but that can be very, very, very, dangerous for the untrained, so I'm not going to explain it, here. If BOTH tests are BELOW the thresholds I mentioned, then either the battery or alternator are the problem. Most modern alternators last many, many years. Since your vehicle is over 4 years old, and probably still has the original battery, then it may be time to replace it, as that would cause the EXACT problems that you described, especially in hot weather (cold weather, too!). Don't skimp on the quality of the battery; make sure to get one with at least the mfr's recommended CCA (Cold Cranking Amps), which should be clearly listed on your current battery and/or user manual. Consider going up one level (usually an additional 200 or so CCA), which will help the car start in extreme temperatures, with the difference in prices between CCA's usually between $10 and 20 (considering that's the cost of a few luxury cups of coffee, and less than the cost of a fill-up at the gas pump, it's more than worth it!). Final thought: in all my years of driving, I have found that the little window on sealed batteries, which is supposed to tell you the "health" of your battery, is completely worthless! And, using a "hygrometer" on an "open" battery is equally worthless, since you might leave the slot covers improperly seated, thus causing battery fluid to leak out; besides, if the battery is at the point where the hygrometer says it's bad, you'd already know it when you couldn't start the car at all!

Happy Motoring! (I *had* to say it!) ;)

Answer 2

Ford Escape Fuel Pump

Answer 3

This Site Might Help You.

RE:
How can I tell if my fuel pump is bad?
I have a 2002 Ford Escape and for about three days last week it would not start properly. In the morning it took about five tries to start it. It also took many tries in the afternoon after work. It doesn't make a clicking sound, it just sounds like it wants to start but it won't. My...

Answer 4

The fuel pump should prime just before you start the car, so if you turn it to "on" but don't start it, you (or someone standing close to the fuel tank) should be able to hear a slight hum. Sounds like an ignition problem more than a fuel problem to me though.

Answer 5

If your fuel filter is dirty or plugged your car won't run right. the same goes for the fuel pump. it sounds like your starter might be going bad. of your car needs a tune up and maybe new spark plugs. a lot cheaper than replacing a fuel pump. it might also be a dirty fuel injector nozzle.

Answer 6

Same problem