brake petal still touching the floor after install caliper, pads, and rotor, no leaks either? any tips?

Question

i just installed a new near driver side brake caliper (the last one froze) new pads and a new rotor, i bleed the brakes, and there was no leaks, but the pedal still goes down very low

i took my abs fuse out. and it the pedal was fine until i put new brake on

sorry, 1996 ford explorer , 4.0 v6

the pedal gets firm after a few pumps, but then goes back down after stopping.

Answer 1

That's a power brake booster or master cylinder problem.

Answer 2

You probably have not bled ALL the air out of the system. Even the tiniest air bubble anywhere in the system will compress when you activate the brakes making the pedal spongy. If you didn't keep up refilling the master cylinder as you bled it, it could have forced more air into the lines from the reservoir.

If that's not it, it's probably your master cylinder, but I doubt it if it worked okay until your caliper frose.

Bleed it again.

If you don't already have something, you might consider getting some better equipment to do it with. A simple hand operated vacuum pump would do wonders. Kits are available at most auto parts stores, sometimes Walmart, and usually Sears. They allow you to diagnose vacuum devices, bleed brakes, and diagnose various systems, and include basic diagnostic procedures. When bleeding brakes you can either use it to pull brake fluid through a caliper, or you could reverse it and force fluid back through the caliper. It sure beats using the brake pedal, because it moves a much greater volume of fluid with each stroke.

Answer 3

$800 for a brake job is way too much. I never go to the "stealership" unless I need parts that I can't get from anywhere else. You don't need to replace pads and rotors simultaneously. I've never heard of anyone resurfacing calipers. The pads will ware down faster than the rotors. As long as the rotors aren't cracked, warped, or damaged, there really isn't any reason to replace them. (The price difference between resurfacing and buying new rotors are very minimal, so just buy new rotors) Once you hear a squeaking noise when you apply the brakes, that's when you'll know you need to get new brake pads. (There's a metal bar that comes in contact with the rotor which causes the noise) Oil changes should be done every 3 months or 3000 - 5000 miles, or which ever comes first.

Answer 4

if it goes to the floor then you didnt bleed them!

no car name, no year, no model., no mileage, ABS ?

is this a 1909 Hupmobile?

bleeding today is done 3 ways today.
1- old fashion gravity ,and press pedal open valve close repeat.
2- pressure bleeding.
3- vacuum .

My I suggest going to step 1 , old fashion way.
pump the pedal 3 times, open the bleed nipple with plastic tube connected to end in to bottle.
then when pedal goes to floor, close valve and then and only then raise pedal.
repeat until you HAVE full pedal.
always start from the longest brake line to the shortest.
RR, LR, RF, LF. (depends on front to rear line routing)
if ABS, THIS the ordering, can be different. FIND OUT!
do not let air get ahead of any ABS valve modulator your
you will need expert help.
You need a manual.
There can be other issues.
PS: you can get much better help by joining a forum just for you car. Then they would not have guess about every thing.

Answer 5

try bleeding all the brake sistem starting at the bleeder forthist away from the master make sure to pump up the b pedle each time and do it 7-8 times each checking the fluid in the resavore to keep the fluid levle up adjust the rear brakes aswell this can cause extra pedle travel to if all that dos'nt work you need to look at the master cylener
it may not be leaking but it can bypass inside or it can leek inside the booster unbolt the master at the booster and pull it away it will be wet or rusted out ware the back seal

GOOD LUCK BRAD A

Answer 6

I hope you had another person to help you bleed the brakes, it takes two unless you have the tool to automatically refill the master cylinder. Also did you adjust the ear brakes, the self adjusters to me are just a joke and then again you may have to replace the rear shoes also.

Answer 7

ok if you already bleed the brake lines then you master cylinder is mest up or just the vacumes inside check if you can buy the kit to fix it first if not then your going to have to buy the whole thing but try bleeding all four calipers

Answer 8

Make sure all the air is out of the brake lines and the master cylinder is topped off....

Answer 9

Bleed the wheel cylinders,>>?Air in them replace all the brake fluid its over do>>?

Answer 10

I would keep bleeding both front wheels a few more times and if they don't get any better you might have a bad master cylinder.