Help getting an aquarium set up?

Question

OK, I have an aquarium and that's it. First, what can I use to clean it. I know soap is bad, but is just water the only answer?
Also, I'm clueless when it comes to setting one up. I have no idea what I'll need, what works best.
Do I need a scad load of equipment or is there just one handy-dandy gadjet that does all the work?
Oh, and I'm certain I just want fresh water, run of the mill kinda fish. Nothing fancy.
Please, any help would help. :)

Thanks so much Kurt! Now I'm not so scared.

Answer 1

What size aquarium?

Livestock capacity:
Generally, limit yourself to 1" of fish body length (tail doesn't count) per gallon of tank capacity. Less if the fish are "bulky". For goldfish, you need to have about 30 square inches of surface area per 1" of fish body length. These limits can be increased slightly with good aeration (through water turbulence).

Filtration:
You need a water filter to help remove contaminants from the tank. I generally use external powerfilters (Penguins with biowheels). You need something that will completely cycle all of water in the tank at least three times per hour, I generally aim to completely cycle all of the water through the tank 10 times per hour. The number of gallons per hour should be stated on the exterior of filter box.

Gravel/Bacteria Surfaces:
You need surface material for beneficial bacteria to live in. Generally, two to three inches of gravel at the bottom of the tank is sufficient, likewise, bacteria will inhabit the wheel part of the biowheel, and the charcoal filter cartridges in the main part of the powerfilter.

Cleaning and Maintenance:
You will need a gravel vacuum (and learn to siphon with it), and an algae scraper. Vacuum the gravel once per week, or at least once per month to clean up uneaten food, waste products etc. Scrape the algae from three sides of the tank whenever it obscures vision into the tank, or you want to neaten up the appearance. Try to leave any algae on one side as an auxiliary food source for the fish, a health indicator for the tank, and a means of removing nitrate.

Water changes:
Change 10% of the water in the tank, once per week. Removing more than that cuts into the stock of beneficial bacteria, and taking less doesn't help remove nitrate build up as much as you should. I am very sloppy about this, and now that my tanks are established, I change the water less often. You'll need a bucket for the water you remove, and you will need to have a supply of water that is within 5 degrees of the tank's temperature, and is free of unwanted chemicals to restock the tank's water level. Use a chemical like aquasafe on regular tapwater, or let the water sit for three days or more after pouring it out of the tap before adding it to the tank.

Other tools are beneficial, but the filter, the hood & light, a thermometer (to make sure the temperature is right for the fish), and gravel are the critical needs. A water testing kit is also a good idea, especially when you first establish the tank.

Initial setup:
Place the gravel, and fill the tank half full of water. Then arrange landscape elements, and finish filling the tank. Load the filter with water, then start everything running for three days. After three days, you can either add some durable fish for the "cycling" process, or begin a fishless cycling technique.

If you use fish to cycle the tank, they will probably die in the process...so don't buy anything fancy. These first fish will start the ammonia/nitrate cycle by emitting ammonia into the tank (by their wastes). Eventually, bacteria that consume ammonia will begin to populate the tank, and will convert the ammonia into nitrite. Eventually, nitrite consuming bacteria will become established and convert that into nitrate. Nitrate is consumed by algae, and by plants. The first two chemicals are highly toxic to the fish, so you need to monitor their levels closely and conduct frequent water changes to keep those levels under control. The third chemical is less toxic, and will be maintained at safe levels through weekly/biweekly water changes.

The fishless cycling technique requires that you add small levels of ammonia to the tank each day while the bacteria is established, and wait until nitrates (the third chemical) are detected in the tank before adding fish. Both methods take about the same amount of time, but you lose fewer fish using the fishless method. You'll have to do a websearch on that topic to find better guidance there.

The tank can cycle faster if you "seed" it with gravel, or filtration material from a previously established tank. Such material is rife with beneficial bacteria...just don't use material from a tank infected with some sort of disease.

Have fun! It's a blast, but you have to stay on top of things for the first month or two while things get set up.

Answer 2

Water is the only thing you should use to be on the safe side.
Setting up:
You will need a substrate (gravel), avoid the colored gravel. The colorant can come of and harm your fish. A good pet store can advise on the kind of gravel. I suggest pea gravel.

Get a power filter the is sized for your tank. There are several kinds ranging from around 10-15 dollars.

You will need a heater. Again Thai should be chosen based on then umber of gallons in you aquarium.

A thermometer. This will help you keeps tabs on the correct temperature in the tank.

You will need some decor (plants, rocks,etc.) to make it pretty.

You do not have to spend a lot of money. Get basic equipment to start out until you learn a little bit more about what you are doing.

Start with some peaceful community fish,like tetras.

I could write a book here, but for the finer points go to the library and check out a book on aquariums. Th er are many good ones out there. Good luck

Answer 3

This site has great information on starting a new tank for beginners...I would highly recommend taking a look at it...

Equipment you will need:
Aquarium
Aquarium gravel
Aquarium filter
Replacement filter media
Heater
Other decorations (such as fake or real plants)
Aquarium test kits to test water parameters and monitor the infamous aquarium nitrogen cycle
Fish food
Aquarium vacuum
Fish net
Aquarium Glass Scrubber


http://www.fishlore.com/Beginners.htm

Also if this is your first tank make sure you read up on the Nitrogen cycle...also in this link...the main issue new aquarists will have is "new tank syndrome"...if you know what you will be fighting before hand then things will go smoothly...
Don't buy any fish until you have an understanding of the cycling process of a new tank.

Good luck!! I am fairly new to the fish hobby and I am loving it..quickly becoming an addict..

Answer 4

Clown fish are marine fish, which means you'll need a saltwater tank. I can tell you right now that keeping a marine tank is exponentially more difficult than keeping a freshwater tank. You should get a book about that before you buy anything.

Answer 5

If you go to this website it will give you all the information you need to know about setting up a tank. It is really useful when it comes to picking the fish you want and what you want out of your tank.

Answer 6

it will be just fine

the best way to clean a tank is always plain warm water

here is what you will need
http://fishlesscycling.com/articles/new_aquarium_needs.html

how to set it up
http://fishlesscycling.com/articles/how_to_set_up_a_freshwater_tank.html

how to do cycling and what it means
http://fishlesscycling.com/articles.html

Don't get any fish until it's fully cycled, that means no nitrites and ammonia present and nitrates under .20ppm


Hope that helps
Good luck



EB